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  1. #21

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    I've just caught up with the thread (sorry, haven't been paying attention!). I think it probably would be worth getting some of the 122 film, if only for the spools, as suggested - the problem for me personally is it's not available in the U.K. and any method of getting it here has got to be expensive. I think I might try something like Ilford Ortho Copy sheet film - I've used it before for enlarging negs - do you reckon it would work O.K.? Any reasons why it wouldn't? Just to try it out, anyway (Do you think black card might work as a mask?). Ordinary life has caught up with me recently (as it does) and already I've put the camera to one side. Don't want to, though, I'm convinced I'm going to be surprised at the good quality images it's possible to get with it!
    Good wishes to all, keep the comments coming!
    Jo

  2. #22
    Donald Qualls's Avatar
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    Last I looked, Film for Classics was processing, but not selling 122, 124, and similar films wider than 70 mm. They may still be able to provide precut reloads for 116/616, since that's just unperforated 70 mm, but 122 and 124 are 90 mm wide, actually a bit larger than 9x12 cm sheet film (which is about 88 mm to allow for the film sheath and fit where a 90 mm glass plate did). Spools are easily fabricated from hobby brass sheet and dowel stock, of course; you can obtain aerographic film and cut it to width with a slitter (the 9 1/2" size won't quite produce three 90 mm strips, sadly), but backing paper is a real killer; the best method I've seen for 116/616 is to make it up from two strips of 120, but even that may not work for 122 and 124 because of the very long frame spacing -- almost 4 1/2 inches in 124 and just over 5 1/2 inches in 122.

    J&C Photo seemingly has a source of usable backing, and a semi-tame coating and cutting capability for their Pro 100 in 120 -- I wonder if they might be convinced to produce a run of 116/616 and 122 or 124 reloads (film and backing to fit customer spools) or complete film (with fabricated spools) in this stock. The question might just be, how big would the order have to be to get a custom cut.

    It's nice film for the price...
    Photography has always fascinated me -- as a child, simply for the magic of capturing an image onto glossy paper with a little box, but as an adult because of the unique juxtaposition of science and art -- the physics of optics, the mechanics of the camera, the chemistry of film and developer, alongside the art in seeing, composing, exposing, processing and printing.

  3. #23

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    http://medfmt.8k.com/mf/postcard.html

    This page will tell you how to adapt the camera for 120 film.

  4. #24

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    Do you have any pictures of your 3A to show. I have a kodak folder that I can't positivly identify, but I belive it is a 3A.

    I have ran a respooled 120 onto a 122 spool, I just haven't devolped it yet, so I can't tell you if it works fine or not. But you will have to cover up the red window so you don't fog the film, it's edges don't cover the window.

  5. #25
    MenacingTourist's Avatar
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    Here's some pics of a 3a I just sent to Jeremy...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Kodak3a_01.jpg   Kodak3a_02.jpg   Kodak3a_03.jpg  

  6. #26

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    Thanks, mine looks very simmiler, except for the front standard. It has no adjustments. It is labeled a premo model, maybe kodak made different models of the 3A?

  7. #27
    Jeremy's Avatar
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    The camera Alan sent me is labeled the No. 3-A Kodak Special. It is one nice looking camera and I already have a 135mm Graflex Optar mounted on the camera. Next I need to adapt it to accept 120 film and the final adustment will be to add a toothed focussing rail which runs the length of the drop-down front to make focussing easier with the shorter focal lengths. I am thinking of removing entirely the one that is on there and added a new one.
    Let's see what I've got in the magic trash can for Mateo!

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  8. #28
    David H. Bebbington's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joze
    -David, - I've used Ilford Ortho Copy to make enlarged negs for cyanotypes. Do you think this would work well or is there another brand you could reccommend?
    Just saw this - sorry I missed it before. Yes, Ilford Ortho will work well, its sensitivity is not quite as great as other ortho films, it seems to run out roughly in the middle of the green spectrum, and also rated and processed as per Ilford recommendations it will be quite contrasty. For normal pictorial work a rating of about EI 16 or 20 will probably be good, with suitably reduced development.

  9. #29

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    David, thanks for that.


    [QUOTE=egdinger]Do you have any pictures of your 3A to show. I have a kodak folder that I can't positivly identify, but I belive it is a 3A.

    egdinger, there's a picture here of the 3A Folding Brownie, which is what I have (the 3A Autographic is different from this). Try 'google images' for any others.
    www.nwmangum.com/Kodak/No3AFB-1.html

  10. #30

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    Paper Neg

    I have a No. 3-A that was my great grandfathers, and I saw it sitting lonely on a shelf today, so I decided to take a few pictures with it. What I did was cut an inch off the long side of a 5x7 sheet of Kodak Polycontrast B&W paper and stuck it in. With my light meter set to about 6 ISO, I took about 5 shots. Two were with a small aperture and long exposure, and 3 were large aperture and short exposure. The two with the small apertures turned out well, but the large aperture shots were under-exposed. I'm not sure if it's because the aperture numbers aren't f-stops (http://www.brownie-camera.com/tech.shtml) or because of a kind of reciprocity failure at short exposures.

    Anyway, two negatives turned out great, so I printed them by laying another sheet of photo paper face up, then the paper negative face down on top in my contact printer, and exposing them under my enlarger. They turned out pretty good. Obviously not as sharp as printing with a negative, but I can't get film for this camera anyway, and the camera's not so lonely anymore.

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