I have Dan's book and the latest updates. I have the chemicals mixed, a light box is built and I am ready to do cyanotypes as my intro to alternative processes. Since the density range for Pt and cyanotypes seem to overlap, I thought that Dan's curves for the Pt process should work. What has other people's experience been using his method for other processes? In addition to cyanotype, I hope to do Pt toned Kallitypes soon per Sandy King's method. Would the Pt curves work for that too? I'm going to give it a go with cyanotypes tomorrow night, but I thought I might be able keep the "error" part of the trail and error to a minimum! Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
I have Dan's book and the latest updates. I have the chemicals mixed, a light box is built and I am ready to do cyanotypes as my intro to alternative processes. Since the density range for Pt and cyanotypes seem to overlap, I thought that Dan's curves for the Pt process should work. What has other people's experience been using his method for other processes? In addition to cyanotype, I hope to do Pt toned Kallitypes soon per Sandy King's method. Would the Pt curves work for that too? I'm going to give it a go with cyanotypes tomorrow night, but I thought I might be able keep the "error" part of the trail and error to a minimum! Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Mark,
You didn't say which cyanotype formula you plan to use, traditional or Mike Ware's New Cyanotype? If you use the traditional you may wish to try 2 Parts solution A to 1 part B. Clear in slightly acidic water. A couple of glugs of white vinegar per 2 liters of water will work well.
Also do you have a specific paper in mind? Please don't do what someone that recently sent me private e-mail did, which was to use Epson Heavy Weight Matte ink jet paper. The poor chap was confused as to why his cyanotypes looked so poor.
Never the less use a paper that has an acidic ph not alkalin. As a guide this usually means any paper good for palladium printing can be used for cyanotypes. I would note though that treating a paper with oxalic acid as is done with some papers for palladium printing doesn't seem to work well with cyanotype. Instead you may wish to try acidifying with a 2% solution of citric acid which is cheaper and safer. Some people add a few drops of citric acid to the sensitiser though I've never attempted that method when printing on highly buffered papers. Arches Platine and Berger Cot 320 are both good papers for cyanotypes.
But back to your original question - using Dan's curves. The palladium curves really aren't quite intended for cyanotype but may get you close. The same goes for kallitypes. Which ever the process some experimentation and tweaking will be required.
You also didn't mention which printer and inkset you are planning to use, this of course will play an important role in the results you achieve.
BTW, I am looking at a beautiful cyanotype print above my monitor that a friend traded for one of my ziatypes. The process is capable of making very nice prints. I also have in my print collection two cyanotype prints made about 1900 which are in fabulous shape. These were made by the great grand father of another photographer friend of mine. He even gave me the instructions from the Kodak kit that was used long ago.
I am using the Mike Ware version from a kit from Photographers Formulary. They suggest a drop or two of a citric acid solution added to the sensitiser. I am printing on a 2200 with Ultrachrome. I am using Rives BFK and I did try using an inkjet paper while I waited for the rives paper to arrive.....after it absorbed about 10cc of solution for a 4x5, I figured that it was a bad idea......
They are curves I've used sucessfully for traditional cyanotype and van dyke brownprinting on Cranes' Kid Finish ecru stationery. They might produce a useful starting point for your initial tests. One of the curve boxes also graphically shows some comparative curve data Sandy King graciously shared with me as I started to experiment with this combo and vdb a few months ago.
If you use the traditional you may wish to try 2 Parts solution A to 1 part B. Clear in slightly acidic water. A couple of glugs of white vinegar per 2 liters of water will work well.
Don Bryant
Don,
Do tell! I use the traditional formula but have always mixed the solutions 1:1.
Let's see what I've got in the magic trash can for Mateo!
That's a bit embarassing.....I bought the book a year+ ago and only looked at his recent update. I'll go back to the CD also. Thanks for all the helpful replies.
That's a bit embarassing.....I bought the book a year+ ago and only looked at his recent update. I'll go back to the CD also. Thanks for all the helpful replies.
I think you will end up making your own curves for these processes. IME, the curves provided by Burkholder in the inkjet supplement did not produce acceptable results and so needed to be modified. Same goes with other curves found on the web, and the same can also probably be said for the ones I provided earlier. They are really only starting points and may have to be changed radically since materials and practice differ between practitioners.
Burkholder does provide a nifty drag-and-drop file template on the CD though which incorporates several curves for different processes and inkjet printers. I successfully modified (and eliminated a few of) the provided curves and the overall template to simplify and personalize my workflow. The template alone was worth the cost of admission.
It took me three tries, but I am happy with what I ended up with. Soem references talked about being able to inspect the image as it prints out, but I found that I really needed to do a proper test strip to get a good exposure. I'm not sure cyanotype is my final alternative destination, but it sure is fun.....
I've attached a scan of what I ended up doing. Thanks again.
Adv Reply
Originally Posted by Mark Fisher
