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Don,
 Originally Posted by donbga
I own both the 2200 and 1280 and the 1280 is less grainy but the printer also has a different dither than the 2200 which I can see at times with some prints.
I also use the 1280 - that odd 'pattern' that pops up in certain 'tones' is frustrating isn't it?
 Originally Posted by donbga
However, the Red ink negs (as well as the prints made from those) do have more apparent grain to my eye than the Green/Blue.
Actually I believe it was after reading an old posting by you that I tried both the green/red and the green/blue to see if I could see any difference. Not sure why I didn't - perhaps because with either one I have the red/blue set at a fairly low value of '5'?
 Originally Posted by donbga
I've been making tri-color gum prints from CMY seperations made with black ink only and they don't seem to have as much grain as some prints made with colored pigment inks. I think one reason for this is that the BO negs are really a combination of the PK and LK inks giving a smoother result (print wise) but then again I may be imagining things.
Interestingly enough I have some plat prints made using all the inks (ie. a la Burkholder) and they seem a bit smoother than the colourized approach. Then again I also could just be imagining this or it's because of the particular subject matter I used.
 Originally Posted by donbga
The 2400/4800 are supposed to make better prints. A good friend of mine just purchased a 2400 and as soon as I get some time I plan to get him to print the Color Density Range Pallete for testing. IF it does turn out that the 2400 is noticeably better then I'll begin saving for a 4800.
Would love to hear and see some 'hard' results from these printers!
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 Originally Posted by rogein
Interestingly enough I have some plat prints made using all the inks (ie. a la Burkholder) and they seem a bit smoother than the colourized approach. Then again I also could just be imagining this or it's because of the particular subject matter I used.
This is the method that I am using. I tried and tried and tried (and tried again) to do the PDN system, and it makes me feel I'm dumb as a brick. I have read and re-read the system multiple times, have done the printing as is suggested and my Epson 4000 will not make negatives that are single color that have enough density for me.
I am printing now with all colors on to the OHP and am getting prints that are very nice. Mostly printing Kallitypes right now, but Carbons and Gravures will be next.
I have posted a few samples, but can re-post the links if anyone would like to see them.
Sullivan's book would be interesting to look at I believe. Thanks for the heads-up.
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Michael,
FWIW Kevin's approach (circa Spring 05) was to use all the inks rather than focus on a specific 'colour'. I've read about your on going problems with the 4000 here and on other forums. Nice to hear you've manged to work things out to your satisfaction. I'd be interested in those links you posted. Thanks!
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 Originally Posted by sanking
Kerik,
I believe Mark Nelson's PDN system is the most comprehensive (in the sense of complete) method of making digital negatives. But it is best to start reading PDN it before your third single malt scotch!
Guilty as charged!!
Kerik Kouklis
Platinum/Gum/Collodion
www.kerik.com
2012 Workshop Schedule Online
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