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  1. #1
    michael9793's Avatar
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    Digitizing ULF Negatives

    [FONT=Times New Roman]
    Several months ago I came across a situation where I started shooting 8x20 negatives. The one thing I didn't figure was I would have to digitize the negatives. 2 months ago a gallery wanted me to send them my work on CD so they can review what I have been doing. The problem was all my new work is either 8x10 or 8x20. After asking on the different forums about what i can do, I tried them all. they were either not of good enough quality or too expensive for me.
    I now have come up with a system which works for me and is excellent quality.
    1st
    I have purchased a new Microtek Scanmaker 1000XL Pro. This scanner has a bed size of 12"x16" for negatives and 12"x17" for paper (still not big enough for my 8x20's but wait). It also has a Dmax of 4.0, better than most expensive scanners out there. It also comes with masks for 35mm to 4x5 and anything over that goes directly on the glass.
    2nd
    The scanner comes with lots of programs, the one I like is adobe Photoshop Elements 3. It has a section called Photomerge Panoramic. place you two halves of the scanned negative in the program and if the program doesn't match them automatically then you can do it by hand and walla you have a single 8x20 scanned negative.
    I will start posting images from this as soon as I catch up with CD's I have to do first.
    I just thought I would share what I found and what is working for me.
    regards
    michael andersen
    "Capturing an image is only one step of the long chain of events to create a beautiful Photograph” See my updated website: mandersenphotography.com

  2. #2
    wildbill's Avatar
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    doh! the D word
    www.vinnywalsh.com

    I know what I want but I just don't know how to go about gettin' it.-Hendrix

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by michael9793
    [FONT=Times New Roman]
    The scanner comes with lots of programs, the one I like is adobe Photoshop Elements 3. It has a section called Photomerge Panoramic. place you two halves of the scanned negative in the program and if the program doesn't match them automatically then you can do it by hand and walla you have a single 8x20 scanned negative.
    Thanks for the report. I scan ULF negatives with the Microtek 9800XL, immediate predecessor to the 1000XL. I do this in two passes and merge the parts in Photoshop CS.

    Does the Photomerge Panoramic program in Photoshop Elements allow you to merge with 16-bit files?

    Sandy

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by sanking
    Thanks for the report. I scan ULF negatives with the Microtek 9800XL, immediate predecessor to the 1000XL. I do this in two passes and merge the parts in Photoshop CS.

    Does the Photomerge Panoramic program in Photoshop Elements allow you to merge with 16-bit files?

    Sandy
    I would doubt it since Photomerge in CS2 is limited to 8-bit files.

  5. #5
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    Panorama Factory

    Quote Originally Posted by sanking
    Thanks for the report. I scan ULF negatives with the Microtek 9800XL, immediate predecessor to the 1000XL. I do this in two passes and merge the parts in Photoshop CS.

    Does the Photomerge Panoramic program in Photoshop Elements allow you to merge with 16-bit files?

    Sandy
    The Panaorama Factory supports 16 bit image stitching and is reasonably priced. I've not used it yet but I'm currently ready the product documentation PDF. You can download a trial version from:

    http://www.panoramafactory.com/

    Unfortunately it appears to be a Windows only product.
    Don Bryant

  6. #6
    donbga's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wildbill
    doh! the D word
    BEETLEJUICE! BEETLEJUICE! BEETLEJUICE!
    Don Bryant

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by donbga
    The Panaorama Factory supports 16 bit image stitching and is reasonably priced. I've not used it yet but I'm currently ready the product documentation PDF. You can download a trial version from:

    http://www.panoramafactory.com/

    Unfortunately it appears to be a Windows only product.
    Oh well, that is a no go. I only use Mac for image stuff.

    PCs are good for typing, though. I use my IBM ThinkPad for most writing projects.

    Sandy

  8. #8
    michael9793's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sanking
    Oh well, that is a no go. I only use Mac for image stuff.

    PCs are good for typing, though. I use my IBM ThinkPad for most writing projects.

    Sandy
    Sandy,
    Last night was the first time I used the unit and it came with silverfast AI for the 1000XL. after scanning the 2 halves and saving them as RT and LF. I bring up the Adobe Elements 3.0 photomerge, pick the two files and away it goes and everything is perfect. I try to set up the first scan using the silverfast options and then leave them, so when I do the second scan they match perfect. I scan at 300 dpi. and mulitscan to pick up the line garbage and use 48 bit color. I have used windows for years so to change now or use another computer is a little much for me to do right now.

    I do have one question.
    I have some 8x20's developed in pyrocat and are over developed I say about 2 stops. Azo exposures are 1.5 mins. When I scan I can't seem to bring the image down. it is always very light after prescanning. Is there a way to change the setting to compensate for the density?
    thanks
    Mike.
    "Capturing an image is only one step of the long chain of events to create a beautiful Photograph” See my updated website: mandersenphotography.com

  9. #9
    michael9793's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sanking
    Thanks for the report. I scan ULF negatives with the Microtek 9800XL, immediate predecessor to the 1000XL. I do this in two passes and merge the parts in Photoshop CS.

    Does the Photomerge Panoramic program in Photoshop Elements allow you to merge with 16-bit files?

    Sandy
    Sandy, it changes my 48 bit color to 8 bit then merges

    mike
    "Capturing an image is only one step of the long chain of events to create a beautiful Photograph” See my updated website: mandersenphotography.com

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by michael9793
    Sandy, it changes my 48 bit color to 8 bit then merges

    mike
    Mike,

    I suspected as much. My preference is to keep the file in 16 bit while I work on it in Photoshp right up to the point where I print since this reduces the possibility of posterization.

    Sandy

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