Thanks for the tip about changing the grid and enlarging it...
I did determine the maximum black as you described. Also, I cut a corner off of my negative to make sure the black of the area with no film covering it, matches that of the area with film covering it.
I'll add a few more data points to my curve, thanks for that tip. My question is, if I set my white & black points using Levels (100% & 0%), there is no need to set white & black points on Curves, right?
I'm using an Epson R800, and using all the colors to print b&W (it is not colorized in the like a pyro negative though).
The prints don't look grainy at all, and have very smooth tone transitions. The prints also looked good, when viewed on their own. Some of the highlight areas could possibly be a little better in the final print, but I'll run some more tests.
Earlier I said I was using Dan's method, I made a mistake, really I was using the method described by Brad Hinkel (
LINK).
Another thought I had was using the gray & black inks sold by MIS, and to see if that would improve tonality. Brad had mentioned something about this, and I'm waiting a reply.
My adjustment curve does look rather odd to me, as all the ones I've seen before seem to have very smooth transitions. But it seems if I add more points on the curve it will continue to be less smooth... Should I leave it as is, or attempt to smooth it out more through manual adjustments? Does it matter if I have a lumpy curve?