I think he was agreeing with you, perhaps worded like this it would have been more to his intent:
"As pbromaghin says, it is worth noting that the court is of course lit a little brighter than the seating area in most arenas so don't assume the whole place is evenly lit."
At least that's how I took it based on your previous comment.
It is worth noting that the court is of course lit a little brighter than the seating area in most arenas so don't assume the whole place is evenly lit as pbromaghin says.
Not sure where you got the idea I said it was evenly lit. The difference in the influence the court and seating have on the meter is my biggest problem
Segedi - I see it now. Thank you for pointing that out.
JP489 - My apologies, sir.
no apologies at all needed. I'm not used to being called sir.
I was just explaining what parts of sports photography were fun and interesting for me. Hope it didn't come across wrong. You'll have a fun time at the game pretty much no matter what.
One more suggestion, get used to the servo mode on the camera. The rebel should have one shot, AI and servo modes. Servo follows focus on moving subjects. It also eats batteries a bit more. The worst is setting the camera on one shot during sports action and having lots of out of focus pics!
Thanks to all of you who have given suggestions. It really has helped.
I have a new question: I plan to go down to the floor before the game and get a meter reading. I recently came to possess an incident meter. Would it be better to use that, or get a through-the-lens reading off a grey card?
I spent some time going through the manual and playing with the camera this weekend. It looks like the servo shooting mode is available only in "sport" mode, which is essentially full auto plus focus on each shot. So taking advantage of it requires giving up all control over the image.
Originally Posted by segedi
Playing with this camera has been interesting. My cameras are all from the '40s to the '80s, so I've never used an auto-focus SLR before. I can see why people like all these modern gizmos. The auto-focus on the 75-300 zoom is pretty quick, but probably still not quick enough for basketball. And who knows if I'll have the focus point on the player or on the crowd at double the distance on the other side of the floor?
From experience in this arena I have done most of my shooting at about 100mm but it appears the image stabilization will allow trying all the way in to 300mm. Following toro_Mike's suggestion of 3200 iso film should give enough depth of field to allow for error in zone focusing at around 1/250 sec.
Sponsored Ad. (Subscribers to APUG have the option to remove this ad.)
I know all of you have been holding your breaths, waiting to see the results of the shoot. Well, here it is so you can all go back to your normal ways of life.
I got a roll of Delta 36 exp ISO 3200. Went down to the floor and took incidence meter reading that recommended f8 at 1/250. After making the manual setting on the camera, the floor showed 2 stops over and the seating area one stop below, which was good enough for me. After a few shots I realized that the image stabilization was not suitable for action shooting - it caused too much shutter lag. So I turned it off and bumped the shutter up to 1/350 and shot up the roll.
That was Friday night. On Sunday I developed the roll in fixer and simply erased the whole thing.
There were some great shots on that roll. Some of the best ever.
I was curious to see, because I like sports photos. But I wasn't holding my breath. I'm sure you'll get some great photos next time and will better label your chemicals!
When I shot highschool basketball, zone defense was quite evident and positions of players were more predicable than pro basketball, making focusing/following easier, whether using manual or AF. If you don't mind cropping and only have a center AF sensor or center AF sensor is working best, just use that to follow the action and crop to a pleasing composition afterwards.
With basketball photos on film, your great photos are only about 1/3 of what you think you had, which is still plenty. Athlete's arms get in the way or people's faces, heads pivot away from the camera quickly. You also get technically and compositionally excellent photos, but they don't tell a story or show what's going on. I used to hope for just a few photos from each 36exp roll to be able to pick from to be potentially used. I didn't want too many because it would take too long to print them all. Just a happy small quantity of good photos. I'd shoot 3 rolls per game.
Sorry to hear it! Next time... next time... At least you weren't on a paid gig
"Your apparent youth belies your worldly knowledge."
HAH! It was the Ilford concentrate bottle that came home from the store. It can't get much better labeled than that. I had it in my hand at least 10 times and still never realized I was holding fixer. I even mixed it just before destroying the film.
Originally Posted by jp498
I usually just manually focus on a point on the floor or on the hoop and don't bother to shoot at anything that would be out of focus.
Originally Posted by jp498
In the past I have felt really feel fortunate to get 1 or 2 out of 36. A lot of my trouble has been with using the wrong film. I used to be in love with Velvia and wasted a lot of time shooting the iso 400 in this environment. I just never was good enough at getting the exposure right and was hoping that the Delta (which has really gotten under my skin lately) would help. This was my first time using B&W at a sporting event in 15 years and before that it would be 1975.
Originally Posted by jp498
Paid? Heh heh, you're funny. The very idea of ever having somebody pay me to do this scares the wits out of me. My best stuff hangs in my cube at work where nobody knows anything about photography. There's not much that I would want to hang on the wall at home.
Originally Posted by toro_mike
I've seen some of your work and it's real good. I'm flattered to have people with the knowledge of you, jp498, and others pay attention to my questions.