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  1. #11
    Brian Jeffery's Avatar
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    Richard,

    I'm currently processing film with inversions at 1 minute intervals, however I'm going to be looking at 3 and 5 minutes intervals for some film/developer combinations. So I would really be interested in the 30 second beeps being variable: either from a predefined list (15 sec, 30 sec, 1 min, 3 min, 5 min) or infinitely variable within specific parameters. I personally think this would make this timer indispensable as it is something that I cannot do with a normal kitchen timer and it would mean that I'm less likely to inadvertently perform an inversion at the wrong time.

    Can you confirm that the end of process sound is different to the 30 second beep?


    Brian

  2. #12
    RH Designs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Jones View Post
    I'm concerned that where the top of the probe and connecting wire meet could be subject to eventual leakage, possibly rendering the devise useless. What have you done to assure a permanent water tight connection at that point?
    We are working with our supplier to ensure as far as possible that this doesn't become a problem. Currently the joint is sealed by adhesive-lined heat-shrink tubing.
    Regards,
    Richard.

    RH Designs - My Photography

  3. #13

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    How about a junction/socket on the cable allowing for cables of different length, different types to be plugged in? I could see having a cable/probe for tray use, and a different cable attached to a tank lid. Short cable for trays like a meter in length would be fine, for tanks maybe something a little longer would work better.

  4. #14
    RH Designs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Jeffery View Post
    Richard,

    I'm currently processing film with inversions at 1 minute intervals, however I'm going to be looking at 3 and 5 minutes intervals for some film/developer combinations. So I would really be interested in the 30 second beeps being variable: either from a predefined list (15 sec, 30 sec, 1 min, 3 min, 5 min) or infinitely variable within specific parameters. I personally think this would make this timer indispensable as it is something that I cannot do with a normal kitchen timer and it would mean that I'm less likely to inadvertently perform an inversion at the wrong time.

    Can you confirm that the end of process sound is different to the 30 second beep?


    Brian
    Currently the device beeps twice on the minute, once on the half minute. Variable beeps I'm afraid are not really practical - there is a time display so you can keep track of the minutes, or if you're tray developing in total darkness with the display covered you could use the cricket umpire method of transferring marbles from one pocket to another in order to keep track of the minutes . The end of step beep is longer than the agitation prompts, and is preceded by a ten second countdown.
    Regards,
    Richard.

    RH Designs - My Photography

  5. #15
    RH Designs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rmann View Post
    How about a junction/socket on the cable allowing for cables of different length, different types to be plugged in? I could see having a cable/probe for tray use, and a different cable attached to a tank lid. Short cable for trays like a meter in length would be fine, for tanks maybe something a little longer would work better.
    The connector is a standard 3.5mm stereo jack plug so you could use an easily obtainable extension lead or leads.
    Regards,
    Richard.

    RH Designs - My Photography

  6. #16
    jeroldharter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rmann View Post
    How about a junction/socket on the cable allowing for cables of different length, different types to be plugged in? I could see having a cable/probe for tray use, and a different cable attached to a tank lid. Short cable for trays like a meter in length would be fine, for tanks maybe something a little longer would work better.
    I second that. If not possible, then a 2 meter cord would be preferable so that the timer could be mounted to the wall.

    It would be nice if the back of the timer had a couple of neodynium magnets (assuming they would not adversely affect operations) so that the unit could be easily mounted on a magnetic surface without drilling holes.

    I like it that the timer is small, and probably light like the paper flasher. However, that means it will move easily when moving the cord around, fall into things, etc. So I would like some built in ways of securing it short of screwing it into the wall. I guess I could tape it or use blue tack but something more elegant would be nice.

    For the footswitch, a long cord option would be nice. If I mount it on the wall and have to snake the footswitch behind the sink, etc. I would need a 3-4 meter cord. Also, I think that the footswitch for the timer is too light. It does not stay put and just the tension from the cord forces it out of position. Some type of weight in the bottom would make it more stable. A cool option would be to put a very dim, optional LED safelight in the footswitch so that it is easy to see in the dark.

    Does it have a battery gauge? It would be frustrating to be processing film and the batteries die.
    Jerold Harter MD

  7. #17

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    I love my RH Designs timer. It's great!

    At one time, I had a Zone VI compensating developing timer. It was the worst piece of darkroom equipment I've ever had. It had to be fixed 4 times, and of course it took awhile for me to figure out that it was broken! So I'm happy that RH Designs is going to build a better one, right?

    One thing to remember is that at certain temperatures some developing agents simply stop working. Will this have some kind of warning? Will it say what the actual temp is?

    Regarding use in a Jobo, the temp of the water bath is always a bit higher than the temp in the tanks.

    Does all film respond to temp changes in the same way? I would expect that a 10% change in temp for TMX would make a bigger difference that a 10% change with Tri-x.

    Anyway, just some things to consider.

  8. #18
    RH Designs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeroldharter View Post
    I second that. If not possible, then a 2 meter cord would be preferable so that the timer could be mounted to the wall.

    It would be nice if the back of the timer had a couple of neodynium magnets (assuming they would not adversely affect operations) so that the unit could be easily mounted on a magnetic surface without drilling holes.
    I can't see that being a standard fitment, but if you want to stick magnets to yours they shouldn't affect operation.

    I like it that the timer is small, and probably light like the paper flasher. However, that means it will move easily when moving the cord around, fall into things, etc. So I would like some built in ways of securing it short of screwing it into the wall. I guess I could tape it or use blue tack but something more elegant would be nice.
    It's based on the ZoneMaster II. It would be fairly straightforward to put keyholes in the base so it could be hung on screwheads.

    For the footswitch, a long cord option would be nice. If I mount it on the wall and have to snake the footswitch behind the sink, etc. I would need a 3-4 meter cord. Also, I think that the footswitch for the timer is too light. It does not stay put and just the tension from the cord forces it out of position. Some type of weight in the bottom would make it more stable. A cool option would be to put a very dim, optional LED safelight in the footswitch so that it is easy to see in the dark.
    Glow-in-the-dark tabs are available and much easier than adding an LED and the necessary extra battery. Heavier footswitches are available but they tend to be for industrial purposes and are very expensive. If it tends to slide about, try some self-adhesive Velcro pads or a big blob of Blu-Tack to stick it down. Extension cords are available. Believe me, for everyone who wants a longer cord, there'll be another who thinks it's already too long and gets in the way .

    Does it have a battery gauge? It would be frustrating to be processing film and the batteries die.
    Yes it does, or you can run it off the mains via an adaptor.
    Regards,
    Richard.

    RH Designs - My Photography

  9. #19
    RH Designs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter De Smidt View Post
    One thing to remember is that at certain temperatures some developing agents simply stop working. Will this have some kind of warning? Will it say what the actual temp is?

    Regarding use in a Jobo, the temp of the water bath is always a bit higher than the temp in the tanks.

    Does all film respond to temp changes in the same way? I would expect that a 10% change in temp for TMX would make a bigger difference that a 10% change with Tri-x.
    There will be over- and under-temp warnings, yes. If you know a definite minimum below which the dev stops working, please let me know and we'll make that the lower limit - currently it's 15C. There are two compensation rates which cover all the combinations we've investigated thus far.
    Regards,
    Richard.

    RH Designs - My Photography

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by RH Designs View Post
    I can't see that being a standard fitment, but if you want to stick magnets to yours they shouldn't affect operation.



    It's based on the ZoneMaster II. It would be fairly straightforward to put keyholes in the base so it could be hung on screwheads.



    Glow-in-the-dark tabs are available and much easier than adding an LED and the necessary extra battery. Heavier footswitches are available but they tend to be for industrial purposes and are very expensive. If it tends to slide about, try some self-adhesive Velcro pads or a big blob of Blu-Tack to stick it down. Extension cords are available. Believe me, for everyone who wants a longer cord, there'll be another who thinks it's already too long and gets in the way .



    Yes it does, or you can run it off the mains via an adaptor.
    Thank you for your replies. I could not live without my StopClock Pro. you obviously put alot of thought into your gear, so thanks. By the way, how much is this timer likely to cost?
    Jerold Harter MD

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