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  1. #21

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    Not to hijack your thread and an old one to boot but...

    I have four #00 shutters I'll be selling. Three are Synchro-Compur and one is a non-synch Prontor. They all work properly and range in cosmetic condtion from decent to excellent. All have blank aperture scales. A Compur would be the easiest fix for you since all you'd need to do is transfer your scale to the replacement. Oh... and they're all guaranteed to be #00.

  2. #22
    Steve Smith's Avatar
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    Thanks but I got hold of another 00 shutter a couple of months ago!


    Steve.
    "People who say things won't work are a dime a dozen. People who figure out how to make things work are worth a fortune" - Dave Rat.

  3. #23

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    Just thought I'd try here before posting them on the ol' internet flea market.

  4. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by Old-N-Feeble View Post
    Just thought I'd try here before posting them on the ol' internet flea market.
    PM sent..

  5. #25

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    Hello Old-N-Feeble
    Do you still have spare Compur 00 shutters for sale?
    Thanks
    Czaad

  6. #26
    Steve Smith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Grant View Post
    I can't unscrew the front cells from the shutter on my 65mm f8 SA Compur #00 or I'd double check for you but they should fit. Just bought 6 shutters yesterday but the two small ones a Compur & a Prontor have mint Novar lens cells fitted.
    In case anyone is doing anything similar and finds this thread, here is an update:

    I didn't fix my shutter in the end, I bought another one... which also had issues (which were known before I got it). After a clean and lubrication, it worked... for a while, after which it needed to be done again... and again... and again!

    So I have decided to abandon this one and look for yet another shutter.

    Yesterday, a friend at work returned a Flexaret TLR which I had loaned him a few years ago. The shutter (a Prontor) was slow to open and close so I took out the cells, cleaned up the blades and got it working again.

    In doing so, I wondered about the thread size and tried the Super Angulon cells which fitted!... Except that the overall length from front to back was about 2.5mm too long.

    Eventually I realised that the front is threaded all the way up to the edge on the Prontor, whereas on the Synchro Compur, the thread starts a few mm into the barrel with a slightly wider opening at the edge. There is a corrosponding shoulder on the back of the front cell which fits into this. However, on the Prontor, the shoulder prevents the cell from screwing in all the way so despite the shutter data showing an overall thickness of 16mm for both shutters, they might not always be compatible.

    After a bit of thought, I decided to file down this shoulder (please don't judge me - the lens isn't in pristine condition so I'm not destroying anything valuable). I bartially screewed the cell back into the old shutter to serve two purposes. To protect the end of the lens from swarf and to provide a channel just the right widthto work as a guide for a thin file.

    The result is that the front cell now fits fully into the front of the shutter and I am 99% that the spacing is now correct.

    Anyway, the point of all this rambling is to ask a favour:

    If anyone has a 65mm Super angulon in a Synchro Compur shutter, I would appreciate it if you could measure the overall distance from front to back (of the metal outer casings).


    Thanks.
    "People who say things won't work are a dime a dozen. People who figure out how to make things work are worth a fortune" - Dave Rat.

  7. #27

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    Steve, I can't help you with the measurement you want but I can tell you that according to the late Steve Grimes the shoulder problem is well-known. Years ago I had him rework a #00 (originally, I think, on a 35 mm folder) so that a 65/8 Ilex (SA clone) would fit properly in it.

  8. #28
    Steve Smith's Avatar
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    Thanks. I'm fairly confident I have it correct now.

    This is what I did: Click image for larger version. 

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    Ideally, I should have done what you have modified the shutter rather than the lens but I don't think my lathe would hold the shutter accurately enough. It was easier to file away the shoulder. I think with the two surfaces perpendicular to each other being in contact, the spacing has to be correct.

    I suppose a roll of film will confirm it!


    Steve.
    "People who say things won't work are a dime a dozen. People who figure out how to make things work are worth a fortune" - Dave Rat.

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