A roll of Acros 100 120, our youngest's 7th birthday.
The fan in my next dark/bathroom. The previous tenants removed it, I would guess, because it was too noisy, and it seems to have been stopped by rust in the motor. A little lubrication and letting it run seems to have gotten it to quiet down.
Very small thing today, disconnected the auto-reverse switch inside a Uniroller in preparation for next weekend's 4x5 tests in a "new" Jobo drum and some pyrocat. You have to disable the switch because the larger diameter drum doesn't make a full rotation before reversing, it being designed for smaller diameter unicolor tanks.
Later I'll give the switch an external port so I can reverse manually, but it isn't necessary.
Sounds like fun Kawaiithulhu
I put "Jon Goodman" light seals in the back of my Spotmatic-F this weekend...
It was a tough choice, which cameras to add seals to. I finally decided based on which ones I was "least likely" to send in for a proper CLA. (It would be silly to replace the seals and then send the camera off for professional cleaning).
Not Acros, Neopan 400.
Originally Posted by Kevin Caulfield
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Tonight was just light seals on a Konica Auto S2. Previously I tightened/lubed its lens helical, battery wire replaced and shutter blades cleaned.
Earlier today I cleaned out and refitted one of the mirror clamps of the HP prism of my F3HP
Yesterday I finished resoldering a loose AE lock wire on a nikon F3hp that required splitting the body in half. In the process I accidentally broke an aperture indicator string which I didnt need to mess with in the first place.
Both problems are fixed now and I am waiting to finish a test roll to see if the shutter speeds and light meter are still good. Seals are all new as well.
While trying to fix the shutter timing, I chipped an Ftbn prism mirror, so I abandoned the project. I suppose if I find another I might try a swap, but the mirrors are shimmed per camera, so ... nah.
Originally Posted by benjiboy
I have a canon IIF rangefinder that I am burned out on replacing the shutter. I just need to get the timing correct but working on it is rather tedious. I have to say the much newer Nikon F3 is much easier to work on. Of course if the flexible circuit board had problems, forget it!
I have repaired 5 different times my Yashicamat 124 (not G); I can rip into it pretty fast now. I finally had to go in and actually clean out the shutter blades.. Flushing, even with break cleaning fluid is a fools errand after all and now the screws all look like crap, but I am not planning to sell it or anything. It is perfectly snappy and works reliably now. Its winding system got lubed and is smooth as silk. The light meter wire was replaced even though its really a novelty at this point. Such a pain in the butt, but I really like that camera after all that work.
Last edited by trythis; 02-10-2014 at 09:59 PM. Click to view previous post history.
"If its not broken, I can't afford it."
Replaced the linksys router with a belkin one last night. The wireless on the linksys was getting flaky and would randomly drop all wireless connections for 2-3 minutes. On the plus side, I have better signal in my upstairs bedroom and a media server built in to the router. On the downside, I had to reconfigure every wireless network device because the belkin wouldn't let me have spaces in the SSID!
Shoot more film.
There are eight ways to put a slide into a projector tray. Seven of them are wrong.
Fixed a seikosha slv shutter that I got off ebay with a calumet ilex 90mm f8 lens. I got it a few weeks ago but due to some important family matters i did not get a chance to check it and repair it until this past Saturday night - Sunday afternoon. The shutter would cock and fire but no blades moved and the preview lever did not open the blades. First thought was that it might be gummed up, a little squirt of naphtha and I I fired nope nothing then I tugged on the preview lever after the shutter was cocked to see if it would open. Nope not at all, then I tugged a bit more and there was a popping sound that you never want to hear a shutter make. Doh.
It was already past midnight and it was a super long day and week, but I went ahead and took the shutter apart. Flash sync and aperture setting pointers off first, then front cover and shutter speed plates off and bam everything flys apart. Doh what a headache. When I pulled the preview lever it got loose and popped off the single screw holding it down, which pushed the cocking lever and attached spring outward which popped out the main spring gear which isn't screwed down.
Ok got it all back together and now it wouldn't cock, and the shutter release lever was loose and there were two very thin springs hanging out. What a headache that i had to poke and prod around to try and figure it out as there is not a clear guide online. I left it for the next afternoon.
I realized that I had a similar seikosha s shutter that I had purchased inexpensively with lens, but was taken from a tlr as it had a flash cable and no screw in shutter release port. I took it apart to compare what was supposed to move in what order to fire the shutter when it was open. It was indeed very similar but was missing some sections such as the pc sync port and internal connections, and the self timer gearing, but with that I managed to take out a few parts of the shutter release, put them back the right way and reconnect the thin springs to the right areas. And finally it all worked. I can't wait to give the ilex 90mm f8 a go when I have some time.
This procedure has gotten me into trouble on more than one occasion :-D Once I ended up with THREE spotmatics in various stages of disassembly at the same time because of this...
Originally Posted by Newt_on_Swings
Going to be picking up a junk FM/FE series body with an unmodified casting to move the guts of my pretty clean looking black FM2n into. Previous owner notched the film gate area on the left edge of the shutter so his copyright information could be displayed on his negs and slides.
Alas, won't be repairing it myself, partly because I'd like a warranty with the repair job.
APUG: F3P, F2AS, FM2n
Nikkors: 18-70/3.5-4.5G AF-S DX (f/D2x), 20/3.5 UD, 24/2 AI, 35/2 O, 50/1.4 S, 85/1.8 K, 105/4 Micro AIS
- My flickr stream