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  1. #121
    John_Nikon_F's Avatar
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    Going to be picking up a junk FM/FE series body with an unmodified casting to move the guts of my pretty clean looking black FM2n into. Previous owner notched the film gate area on the left edge of the shutter so his copyright information could be displayed on his negs and slides.

    Alas, won't be repairing it myself, partly because I'd like a warranty with the repair job.

    -J
    APUG: F4, F3P, F2ASx2, F
    DPUG: D200
    Nikkors: 18-70/3.5-4.5G AF-S DX (f/D200), 24/2.8 AI, 50/1.4 AI, 50/2 H, 85/1.8 K, 105/4 Micro AIS, 180/2.8 ED AIS, 300/4.5 ED AI

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  2. #122
    Newt_on_Swings's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daire Quinlan View Post
    This procedure has gotten me into trouble on more than one occasion :-D Once I ended up with THREE spotmatics in various stages of disassembly at the same time because of this...
    Yea it's not the best way as you have double the work but I have salvaged many junked cameras using this method when there are no service manuals available. Btw did you get your spotmatics fixed in the end?

  3. #123
    John_Nikon_F's Avatar
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    ^Been there, done that. After last summer, I had a fairly large tackle box organizer FULL of Nikkormat FT series parts. Said organizer now belongs to Ralph Javins, but I'm starting on another... :-)

    Discovered why one of my 50/2 H lenses had a bind in the focus around 2'... Lens element assembly was loose. Fell out of the lens barrel when I took the lens data ring/filter ring assembly off. Since the lens had some cosmetic issues, I demoted it to pre-AI status and moved the AI conversion ring to the other. Was going to swap the real clean AI conversion ring from the HC lens to the nice H, but discovered that the lens is a bastard child. Barrel and aperture ring parts are from an H lens in the 742011-785010 range, and the focusing ring, filter ring, and optics are from a fairly early HC lens. Now on the hunt for the correct focusing ring with the larger font, and a lens data ring/filter ring from the correct serial number range. Will leave the newer glass in place.

    -J
    APUG: F4, F3P, F2ASx2, F
    DPUG: D200
    Nikkors: 18-70/3.5-4.5G AF-S DX (f/D200), 24/2.8 AI, 50/1.4 AI, 50/2 H, 85/1.8 K, 105/4 Micro AIS, 180/2.8 ED AIS, 300/4.5 ED AI

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  4. #124
    Mr_Flibble's Avatar
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    The auto-stop-down pin on a MIR-26B ...only 9 screws to get to the disengaged part. 2 seconds to fix it. yay!

    No idea how it could ever have come loose though. Or someone else might have been in there before I got the lens :|

  5. #125

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    Two of them yes. Unfortunately it was the second two :-D The 1st got used as a parts cam and is in the process of getting turned into a weird bessa-l like frankencamera


  6. #126
    Newt_on_Swings's Avatar
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    Ah I forgot to include the only picture I took of the repair. Maybe it may help someone in the future. Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #127
    Regular Rod's Avatar
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    Made a quick, temporary lens panel for my Whole Plate Kodak Model B. I haven't decided which lens to drill the hole for yet...

    RR

  8. #128
    John_Nikon_F's Avatar
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    Received a Nikkormat FT3 in the mail today. Noticed that the index on the frame counter had rotated out of place and was covering the numbers. Off came the top, out came the 1.5mm slotted screwdriver. Realigned the index, then tightened the screw down. Reassembled the camera and tested it. Meter's accurate, but slightly erratic, if you move the shutter speed ring at all. Adjusting the aperture doesn't cause the needle to twitch. So, sending that one in eventually. It's not to the point where the meter is unuseable.

    -J
    APUG: F4, F3P, F2ASx2, F
    DPUG: D200
    Nikkors: 18-70/3.5-4.5G AF-S DX (f/D200), 24/2.8 AI, 50/1.4 AI, 50/2 H, 85/1.8 K, 105/4 Micro AIS, 180/2.8 ED AIS, 300/4.5 ED AI

    My FB - My flickr stream
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  9. #129

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    Took apart a Pentax M50mm F1.7 to get rid of a few larger than acceptable chunks of dust inside and even reassembled it after.
    Took the base plate off my recently received Pentax MX to tweak a metal part so the half press turns the light meter on correctly. Camera is still going in for a much needed CLA.
    Took the ring around the shutter button and mode selector dial off my Pentax Super Program to spray electronics cleaner into the shutter button assembly and work it around till both the half press and shutter release were 100% reliable again. This one already had a CLA so its annoying the button was acting up again. One of that cameras weak spots.

  10. #130
    dehk's Avatar
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    Minolta XE
    - Derek
    [ Insert meaningless camera listing here ]



 

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