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  1. #71

    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    Montpelier, VT
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    Fixed the "rangefinder" on a Polaroid 104 and converted it to take two AAA batteries as the original contacts had corroded to the point of no return. Also cleaned up a pre-1920's Brownie 3 and a Brownie 2A.

  2. #72
    John_Nikon_F's Avatar
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    Apr 2008
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    Duvall, WA, USA
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    Made one nice Nikomat FTn out of four beater FTn's. Also tested a couple FT2's that KEH said had dead meters - not so... Both had perfectly functioning meters. Passed one onto Ralph J., along with a Tamron 28/2.5 Adaptall-2. The other is currently in the shop to be refoamed. When it comes back, a roll of Ektar 100 will be loaded, and it will be tag teaming with my black FT2, which recently received a full overhaul, for that roll. I will be sending the FTn in for a meter recal, a refoam, and to have the shutter cocking mechanism cleaned and relubed. Sometimes is a bit sticky. In a month or two, I hope to send one of my F2AS bodies to the UK for a full Soverization. Once that camera's back, then the other goes in for the same thing. Want to have two F2AS bodies that function better than they did when they came out of their boxes.

    -J
    APUG: F4, F3P, F2ASx2, F
    DPUG: D200
    Nikkors: 18-70/3.5-4.5G AF-S DX (f/D200), 24/2.8 AI, 35/2 O, 50/1.4 AI, 50/1.8 AF, 50/2 H, 85/1.8 K, 105/4 Micro AIS

    My FB - My flickr stream
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  3. #73
    John_Nikon_F's Avatar
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    Apr 2008
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    Now have a properly working FTn... Replaced the linkage that cocks the shutter and mirror box, since the advance lever was slow to return to the normal standoff position. Now returns quickly, like it should.

    -J
    APUG: F4, F3P, F2ASx2, F
    DPUG: D200
    Nikkors: 18-70/3.5-4.5G AF-S DX (f/D200), 24/2.8 AI, 35/2 O, 50/1.4 AI, 50/1.8 AF, 50/2 H, 85/1.8 K, 105/4 Micro AIS

    My FB - My flickr stream
    My SmugMug

  4. #74

    Join Date
    Jun 2009
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    920
    I'm not sure whether to put this in the Fixed or Broke thread. It all started (doctor) when I thought I'd attempt to get my Voigtlander Brillant TLR to focus easier. I pulled the WLF off and the mirror was awful. Took a bit of lens tissue, gave it a very, very soft wipe, and all the silver came off w/ that one wipe. OK, that didn't work. Tried to cover it w/ tinfoil. Put it back together, couldn't see a thing. Next, I cut down an old 'cord mirror I'd replaced some time ago. Got it in fine after the trim, but now the focus was WAY off. Turns out that the mirror is nearly twice as thick as the original. Pulled it out, again, and flipped the mirror so that the silvered side was now on the bottom. This got the focus closer, but I had to take the WLF off about 10 more times, and keep adding strips of tape to the bottom to get the focus right. It's OK now, but that mirror is not that great, so I will probably have to do this all over again once I find another mirror.

  5. #75
    Newt_on_Swings's Avatar
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    Mar 2011
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    NYC
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    You could try surplus shed, they carry lots of mirrors if you want to try cutting them. The prices and shipping costs are pretty good.

  6. #76
    polyglot's Avatar
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    Jun 2009
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    South Australia
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    It's the wrong trousers, Gromit!

    Some monkey put a 5A slow blow main fuse in my CPP2 instead of a 6.5A fast blow. Looks like it's been sitting there quietly cooking for the last three years I've been using it (probably from an overloaded, stiff pump), discolouring the board. Tonight, it finally blew and ruined my plans to make prints.

  7. #77

    Join Date
    Jun 2003
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    15,947
    it wasn't today but a week ago
    with an email or 4 back and forth to an xpert
    to make sure i remembered what i was doing
    i unstuck and retimed the graflex shutter on my 3A ...
    used it yesterday
    im empty, good luck

  8. #78
    Newt_on_Swings's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    NYC
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    Cleaned and relubed an industar 61, was fairly straight forward with a guide online. Shot 4 rolls with it so far but I am getting really soft images with lots of flare or halation. The front is is scratched and hazy with coating damage. I think I will try and find or make a hood. I made a lens cap for the lens with some card stock, glue, and left over leather.

  9. #79
    polyglot's Avatar
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    Jun 2009
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    South Australia
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    Jobo rolls again!

    (I actually fixed it tonight. New fuse, tightened the fuse holder as it was spectacularly loose and probably contributed to the heating)

  10. #80

    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    New Jersey (again)
    Shooter
    35mm RF
    Posts
    1,960
    Some TLRs allow you to reset the focus of the viewing lens, which has its own helical. I don't know if that's possible with your Brilliant.

    A mirror from a Polaroid is very thin, although you probably would need to cut it.


    Quote Originally Posted by momus View Post
    I'm not sure whether to put this in the Fixed or Broke thread. It all started (doctor) when I thought I'd attempt to get my Voigtlander Brillant TLR to focus easier. I pulled the WLF off and the mirror was awful. Took a bit of lens tissue, gave it a very, very soft wipe, and all the silver came off w/ that one wipe. OK, that didn't work. Tried to cover it w/ tinfoil. Put it back together, couldn't see a thing. Next, I cut down an old 'cord mirror I'd replaced some time ago. Got it in fine after the trim, but now the focus was WAY off. Turns out that the mirror is nearly twice as thick as the original. Pulled it out, again, and flipped the mirror so that the silvered side was now on the bottom. This got the focus closer, but I had to take the WLF off about 10 more times, and keep adding strips of tape to the bottom to get the focus right. It's OK now, but that mirror is not that great, so I will probably have to do this all over again once I find another mirror.



 

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