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  1. #11
    AgX
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    I once repaired the connectivity of a printed-foil leader to a LCD display (of a telephone) by locally applied heat by means of regulated fine tip solder iron. I started a thread on it too.
    But meanwhile the same connection got loose again.

    The proper repair would be to take off such leader complety and clean both surfaces. Then a special conductive tape must be attached to one of the the two surfaces and both brought together again. The tape is made by 3M in different types and sold in small strips on the net for cellphone repairs. There is a hint at these at some other thread on Apug.

  2. #12

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    Ok… need a little help!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I've got my camera taken apart, ready to repair, I have the 3m tape…. I am just not 100% sure which ribbon it is to undo and repair?

    is it white ribbon to black connector directly above tinted RF window or white ribbon above viewfinder window??

    I am hoping its the one i am pointing to in the pic

    please help!

    thanks!
    Kian

  3. #13
    Fragomeni's Avatar
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    Hi Kian,

    I cant really see what you're pointing to in the picture but I'm also not entirely sure where the loss on conductivity is occurring. When I did this I just kind of guessed. Unfortunately my repair didn't last long and I've once again lost all of the information in the viewfinder. I have tried replacing the tape yet but I think I'll try that next (if I can find the tape). Also, I've read of similar repairs to other devices being done using regular aluminum tape which is conductive. Aluminum tape can be acquired at almost any hardware store so much easier to come by. I may just give that a try to see if it works.
    Francesco Fragomeni
    www.FrancescoFragomeni.com

  4. #14

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    Hi does anyone here made it to completely fix the LCD screen? Does anyone have more pictures of how to get it done, of course the pics we have here are really nice, but more detailed would have helped a lot... Thank you.

  5. #15

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    Warning:

    What ever you do, first take out the batteries and leave the camera for a a day or two to fully decharge the flash capacitator (I don't know exactly how much time it takes tbh). I zapped myself badly (twice) and it was no kind of fun I can tell you! Still a little shaken actually

    Mine also suffers from the clicking non functioning shutter syndrome as well, which looks most like aperture blades being stuck at f22.

    Thought I'd just made a bargain, buying one for $70 locally. Once I got home I noticed the LCD issue and after ten minutes the shutter died too. It hadn't been used for about 8 years which to me sounds like oxidized contacts or simply stuck aperture blades. Would be awesome if somebody with more technical sense than me made a proper tutorial to save all of these lovely malfuntioning Ricoh cameras.

  6. #16

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    Update, not sure waiting will discharge the capacitator, but a (rubber gripped!) screwdriver at the connections gives an almighty crack and a few smaller ones. After this I reckon it is safe to touch. Probably not the kosher way to do it, but with a dead GR1S, two major electric shocks under my belt I wasn't going to play it nice. There are tutorials on how to make a discharger if you search on google.

    I didn't get it working but I did learn some more about the 'ticking' lens being stuck at f22. If I manually forced the lens into the body so that it looked like it does when being turned off I could unjam the shutter temporarily. Once in this position it would give some weird rattling sounds if firing the shutter, even firing the flash if in flash mode (lens covers still closed). Turning the camera off and on and the aperture will have opened up again looking normal. First shutter release after this and the shutter will close down to around f8 and stop down to f22 if firing once more, being back to stuck position. However if opened the lens covers in the forcibly closed position the aperture would act normal when firing the shutter. I ran through the apertures and they all seemed to act normal with shutter speeds changing accordingly.

    So the shutter works normally when retracted all the way into the body which suggests that it is not the lens that is faulty nor the aperture blades being stuck due to old lubricants, but rather that it is an electrical problem most likely due to either a problem with the lens ribbon cable or perhaps a problem with the circuits under the LCD. I tried fiddling with the lens ribbon cable accessible from film chamber but it didn't change a thing. I made a video which I will put on youtube when I got time.

    I really want to win over this camera now!!

  7. #17

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    I have almost completely disassembled the GR-1/s series cameras in order to try to revive them from the dead. It total, they exhibited all the classic symptoms of GR-1/s failure including LCD segment disappearance, partial viewfinder failure, partial viewfinder separation, focus error, and finally shutter failure. If they didn't help create such wonderful images, I wouldn't be so bothered by it, but alas, I have been through three of these cameras, all which met the same fate. I will post photos of the disassembly in the next two weeks, and they will be available for parts if anyone is interested.

  8. #18
    Patrick Robert James's Avatar
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    I have been following this thread since I have issues with my GR1. Since it popped up again today, I looked at my GR1 which has been sitting on my desk for many months. I had the LCD problem, then the shutter crapped out on me a few years ago. Today I looked through it and it is obvious that the viewfinder is separating! Jeesh. It is too bad that such a fantastic lens was attached to such a crap camera! To think these things were super expensive back in the day but couldn't last as long as a crappy Olympus...

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by TimmyMac View Post
    LCD panels are connected to the main circuit boards in these devices with a plastic ribbon cable which has conductive rubber strips embedded in it. The ribbon cable is glued down to the circuit board using a special film which is conductive through its thickness but not conductive in the other directions. Unfortunately this stuff tends to degrade over time which gives the classic GR1 problem.

    However, if you're handy you can remove this film and either tape the cable in place and install something to push it down onto the circuit board contacts, or you can buy new adhesive film (3M Anisotropic Conductive Film 9703, available on eBay for repairing iPods and such) and replace it. I'll briefly explain below.

    First you need access to the ribbon cable. Remove the rubber grip wrapped on the front and right side of the camera, which is just stuck down with a glue of sorts. This gives you access to two screws which hold the top cover on. Remove these. Also remove the viewfinder/power switch bezel, held on with one screw which is easily visible. Finally, there is one hidden screw which is inside the film compartment at the extreme left of the camera, beside the takeup spool. Once you remove this, you can take the top cover off. There is nothing you need to worry about here except you can easily lose the rubber part of the rewind button at the top left corner of the camera.

    Once you have the top off, the rest is relatively easy. Take off the black plastic holder for the LCD. The hard circuit board on the left side which has the button contacts for the exposure compensation, timer, and mode buttons needs to come off; it's held down by a single screw. Now you can move the LCD out of the way, and bend out of the way (gently!) the flexible circuit board which obstructs the LCD ribbon attachment. Using a warm soldering iron or similar, you can warm up the attachment and gently remove it from the circuit board underneath. There are a series of gold pins which the ribbon is stuck to - you can clean these with acetone after removing the ribbon, and you can get the adhesive off the ribbon with acetone as well. Be VERY GENTLE removing the adhesive as the rubber conductive strips are also somewhat sensitive to acetone and will dissolve if you're not careful.

    Once that's done, tape the edges of the ribbon cable in place so the contacts line up again. I used some thin foam tape to ensure constant downwards pressure to make sure the pins made contact. If you bought the 3M adhesive, cut a little strip and you'll need to heat it to around 100C while holding the ribbon in place to get it to set. This is a more reliable way of getting the contact to stay permanently - mine is missing 1.5 segments after I did the mod.
    I'm attaching some photos to hopefully gain some clarity for the above tasks. I've added some labels to make sense of things:

    • White Border: The full 'ribbon cable'
    • A: The 'left' side of the ribbon cable, when the camera is pointing at you
    • B: The 'right side of the ribbon cable, camera pointing at you

    The way I understand TimmyMac's instructions is:

    • beneath side A is where the conductive rubber strips are
    • side A should be warmed and detached from the circuit board underneath
    • beneath side A you should clean the area and use the 3M adhesive to re-attach the ribbon cable to the circuit board
    • side B should NOT be removed

    TimmyMac, is this correct? I've never fiddled with electronics so I need more of a visual guide.

    One note, it seems that side A has some thin layer of tape of some sort on top, almost like a scotch tape on the edge of the circuit board. Not sure if this detail is important.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails ricoh1.jpg   ricoh2.jpg  

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by besseddrest View Post
    I'm attaching some photos to hopefully gain some clarity for the above tasks. I've added some labels to make sense of things:

    • White Border: The full 'ribbon cable'
    • A: The 'left' side of the ribbon cable, when the camera is pointing at you
    • B: The 'right side of the ribbon cable, camera pointing at you

    The way I understand TimmyMac's instructions is:

    • beneath side A is where the conductive rubber strips are
    • side A should be warmed and detached from the circuit board underneath
    • beneath side A you should clean the area and use the 3M adhesive to re-attach the ribbon cable to the circuit board
    • side B should NOT be removed

    TimmyMac, is this correct? I've never fiddled with electronics so I need more of a visual guide.

    One note, it seems that side A has some thin layer of tape of some sort on top, almost like a scotch tape on the edge of the circuit board. Not sure if this detail is important.
    It's been a while since I did this repair and my GR1 has since gotten the clicky-shutter problem which also seems to be pretty common - so I haven't used or seen it in a while. From what I remember, the scotch tape is to be removed as it prevents you from getting at the ribbon cable attachment spots. Spot A is the attachment for the main ribbon cable, which branches to the main LCD and also to the viewfinder LCD. Spot B is the attachment for the viewfinder LCD.

    *disclaimer: this is from memory of a repair done a long time ago!

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