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  1. #11
    AgX
    AgX is offline

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    Apr 2007
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    I once repaired the connectivity of a printed-foil leader to a LCD display (of a telephone) by locally applied heat by means of regulated fine tip solder iron. I started a thread on it too.
    But meanwhile the same connection got loose again.

    The proper repair would be to take off such leader complety and clean both surfaces. Then a special conductive tape must be attached to one of the the two surfaces and both brought together again. The tape is made by 3M in different types and sold in small strips on the net for cellphone repairs. There is a hint at these at some other thread on Apug.

  2. #12

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    Apr 2014
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    Ok… need a little help!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I've got my camera taken apart, ready to repair, I have the 3m tape…. I am just not 100% sure which ribbon it is to undo and repair?

    is it white ribbon to black connector directly above tinted RF window or white ribbon above viewfinder window??

    I am hoping its the one i am pointing to in the pic

    please help!

    thanks!
    Kian

  3. #13
    Fragomeni's Avatar
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    Jul 2010
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    Hi Kian,

    I cant really see what you're pointing to in the picture but I'm also not entirely sure where the loss on conductivity is occurring. When I did this I just kind of guessed. Unfortunately my repair didn't last long and I've once again lost all of the information in the viewfinder. I have tried replacing the tape yet but I think I'll try that next (if I can find the tape). Also, I've read of similar repairs to other devices being done using regular aluminum tape which is conductive. Aluminum tape can be acquired at almost any hardware store so much easier to come by. I may just give that a try to see if it works.
    Francesco Fragomeni
    www.FrancescoFragomeni.com

  4. #14

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    Sep 2010
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    Sandnes
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    Hi does anyone here made it to completely fix the LCD screen? Does anyone have more pictures of how to get it done, of course the pics we have here are really nice, but more detailed would have helped a lot... Thank you.

  5. #15

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    Dec 2014
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    Warning:

    What ever you do, first take out the batteries and leave the camera for a a day or two to fully decharge the flash capacitator (I don't know exactly how much time it takes tbh). I zapped myself badly (twice) and it was no kind of fun I can tell you! Still a little shaken actually

    Mine also suffers from the clicking non functioning shutter syndrome as well, which looks most like aperture blades being stuck at f22.

    Thought I'd just made a bargain, buying one for $70 locally. Once I got home I noticed the LCD issue and after ten minutes the shutter died too. It hadn't been used for about 8 years which to me sounds like oxidized contacts or simply stuck aperture blades. Would be awesome if somebody with more technical sense than me made a proper tutorial to save all of these lovely malfuntioning Ricoh cameras.

  6. #16

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    Dec 2014
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    Update, not sure waiting will discharge the capacitator, but a (rubber gripped!) screwdriver at the connections gives an almighty crack and a few smaller ones. After this I reckon it is safe to touch. Probably not the kosher way to do it, but with a dead GR1S, two major electric shocks under my belt I wasn't going to play it nice. There are tutorials on how to make a discharger if you search on google.

    I didn't get it working but I did learn some more about the 'ticking' lens being stuck at f22. If I manually forced the lens into the body so that it looked like it does when being turned off I could unjam the shutter temporarily. Once in this position it would give some weird rattling sounds if firing the shutter, even firing the flash if in flash mode (lens covers still closed). Turning the camera off and on and the aperture will have opened up again looking normal. First shutter release after this and the shutter will close down to around f8 and stop down to f22 if firing once more, being back to stuck position. However if opened the lens covers in the forcibly closed position the aperture would act normal when firing the shutter. I ran through the apertures and they all seemed to act normal with shutter speeds changing accordingly.

    So the shutter works normally when retracted all the way into the body which suggests that it is not the lens that is faulty nor the aperture blades being stuck due to old lubricants, but rather that it is an electrical problem most likely due to either a problem with the lens ribbon cable or perhaps a problem with the circuits under the LCD. I tried fiddling with the lens ribbon cable accessible from film chamber but it didn't change a thing. I made a video which I will put on youtube when I got time.

    I really want to win over this camera now!!

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