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  1. #11
    LJH
    LJH is offline

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    38mm SAXL isn't a 4x5 lens. Only has 137mm IC. You need around 154mm.

  2. #12
    Steve Smith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ic-racer View Post
    Just the helical focus mount is over $300.
    Unless you make it yourself. See my 6x12 camera link.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Searust View Post
    I have yet to find a 35mm focus mechanism that I can mount a LF lens in
    See above... or below!


    Steve.

  3. #13

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    For inspiration, take a look at the Gowland aerial cameras, about half way down at http://www.petergowland.com/camera/index.html

    I believe SK Grimes makes/made a helical mount for LF lenses. But won't be cheap.

    I've wondered what could be accomplished with threaded pvc fittings.
    "Far more critical than what we know or do not know is what we do not want to know." - Eric Hoffer

  4. #14
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    Hello everyone,
    I'm overwhelmed with all these responses within one day. Thank you all!

    My conclusions for now:
    1) It's gonna be a simple concept with a fixed focus lens. For this I have to calculate the film-to-flange distance (depending on the lens of choice) and the hyperfocal distance (thank you Ian for the PM about these issues).
    2) I'm not gonna use a helical focus mount for now (to reduce costs). Maybe in time if my concept works and I can get one 2nd hand & cheaper. I like Steve's solution by using an broken Olympus 50 mm lens to build his own helical focus device. If there is such a solution for my lens, I might try this as well after I have finished the camera. (See Steve's Building a 6x12 Wide Angle Panoramic camera)
    3) I also thought of making 2 tight nested boxes, as suggested by John. But I'm gonna do this in an other project for a 8x10" wooden camera suited for 8x10" lenses and pinhole.
    4) I'm gonna use Ilford Direct Positive Paper instead of film in this camera. I’ll also use B&W negative photo paper to make paper negatives for contact printing (gum printing or salt printing).
    5) I have to choose a lens for this camera. I think I'm gonna use my “Schneider-Kreuznach Super-Angulon 1:8/121 #7481057" since it has a working shutter and it will be a 4x5" camera.
    6) Maybe I even go for a second 5x7" size P&S camera since I have about 8 of these film holders lying around (without a camera). For this camera I can use my Voigtlander Braunschweig Heliar 1:4,5/21 cm lens. However, this Compound shutter fires at one speed only (needs SLA?). But first let me make the 4x5" P&S camera.
    7) As a thank you to Ned: I'm gonna call this my "set for eternity" camera project. ;-)

    Any thoughts about these conclusions?
    Thanks,
    Bert from Holland

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by TheToadMen View Post
    5) I have to choose a lens for this camera. I think I'm gonna use my “Schneider-Kreuznach Super-Angulon 1:8/121 #7481057" since it has a working shutter and it will be a 4x5" camera.
    6) Maybe I even go for a second 5x7" size P&S camera since I have about 8 of these film holders lying around (without a camera). For this camera I can use my Voigtlander Braunschweig Heliar 1:4,5/21 cm lens. However, this Compound shutter fires at one speed only (needs SLA?). But first let me make the 4x5" P&S camera.
    Bert, since you have a 121/8 SA, by all means use it even though 121 mm isn't very wide on 4x5. You really should come up with a way to measure its flange-to-film distance when it is focused at a distance that makes sense (hyperfocal distance @ f/22, perhaps?). This because the lens' actual focal length and flange focal distances are probably not exactly what the Schneider brochure says.

    Yes, a single shutter speed can be limiting, especially if you don't know what it is. Buy your 210/4.5 Heliar's Compound a CLA.

  6. #16
    Steve Smith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Fromm View Post
    You really should come up with a way to measure its flange-to-film distance when it is focused at a distance that makes sense (hyperfocal distance @ f/22, perhaps?).
    You can find the flange distance for infinity focus here: http://www.schneideroptics.com/info/vintage_lens_data/ then work out how much to add for hyperfocal (I can't help you with that but someone will know the formula).


    Steve.

  7. #17
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    Bert, Compound shutters are fairly simple. If you can tackle the job of making a camera, cleaning the shutter should be no problem. Start by unscrewing the caps on the ends of the pneumatic cylindar and flushing it out with a solvent such as alcohol.

    As for focusing the lens on infinity, that is easier done on a ground glass than by specifications and calculations. Use a frame that will space a ground glass (with ground surface facing the lens) at the correct distance from the surface against which the film holder mates. This distance will be about .188 inches for 4x5 film holders, and about .219 inches for 5x7. I suggest setting the lens to focus precisely on infinity. It can then be shimmed out to focus at whatever hyperfocal distance proves best through experimenting.
    Last edited by Jim Jones; 12-27-2012 at 09:15 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Smith View Post
    You can find the flange distance for infinity focus here: http://www.schneideroptics.com/info/vintage_lens_data/ then work out how much to add for hyperfocal (I can't help you with that but someone will know the formula).


    Steve.
    Steve, that's a nice theory. There's no guarantee that a lens will match its published specifications.

    Graflex Inc. and predecessors offered several sets focusing scales for each standard issue lens e.g., the 127/4.7 Ektar. The focusing scales go on the outer bed. Lenses sold with cameras by the factory had their focal lengths' measured; the best (not always exactly correct) scale for the lens was fitted to the camera's bed. Graflex urged users who wanted to add lenses to their kit to send the additional lenses to the factory for matching to the closest focusing scales.

    Parallel, to this, why do you think that Nikon and Boyer shipped their process lenses with quality control slips that gave the lens' measured focal length and measured flange-to-film distance at 1:1? Nominal isn't good enough.

  9. #19

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    This is fundamentally different than "building your own" but have you taken a look at the 4x5 P&S that's being built and updated at the LF Forum? http://www.largeformatphotography.in...ght=wanderlust

  10. #20
    Steve Smith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Fromm View Post
    Steve, that's a nice theory. There's no guarantee that a lens will match its published specifications.
    True, but it's a good place to start. Build something with a bit of adjustment - say 1/4" towards the film and 1/2" away and you should be able to get it at hyperfocal for f16.


    Steve.

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