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  1. #1
    David Lyga's Avatar
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    cutting glass easily

    I have some 2 x 2 thin glass inserts for slides and might have a use for these other than for their intended purpose.

    Occasionally, in a deal, I get a viewfinder or rangefinder camera with a broken outer viewfinder window. I need to remove the top and replace the broken glass with new glass. If I could cut a piece of the thin glass 2x2 and use that to replace the broken glass that would be ideal. Is there a way to cleanly cut the 2 x 2 insert? I have heavy duty razor blades. Or, other creative options? Thank you. - David Lyga

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    daleeman's Avatar
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    I'll ask my wife, she has a glass company.

    Seems to me I've seen her guys use a carbine tip glass tool to score and snap the glass. So I'd imagine you would need to essentially do a Tic Tac Toe game lay out and then snap the glass since you are working for such a small 2x2 item.

    Any idea what the anti Newton Ring glass might do to the RF window?
    Lee

  3. #3
    paul_c5x4's Avatar
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    One usually uses a diamond, carbide point, or a hardened wheel to score the glass - A single, clean score line is all that is required. The glass is then snapped off along the score line. However, as glass ages, it becomes brittle and you may struggle to get a clean break.

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    M.A.Longmore's Avatar
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    You will need to use a " Glass Cutter " as described by Paul_c5x4.
    I seem to remember the real professionals dipping the cutter in kerosene,
    or turpentine to lubricate the wheel. I guess a squirt of WD40 might be helpful ...

    Ron
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  5. #5
    David Lyga's Avatar
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    daleeman: I don't thing that the very, very slight rough surface of the anti-Newton glass will do anything different for a viewfinder window.

    OK: Let's see if I can get away with this (please comment): If I first oil the thin glass and then strongly make ONE hard pass with the ruler-guided safety razor will that be sufficient to score the line? - David Lyga

  6. #6
    M.A.Longmore's Avatar
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    Yes !
    That's how the professionals do it.


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  7. #7

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    If I first oil the thin glass
    Not oil! kerosene, or turpentine as M.A.Longmore stated
    And try to get a diamond or carbide point. The wheel thing will not work for thin glass.

  8. #8
    TBN
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    I've cut a lot of glass before, and you don't put oil or anything on the glass..
    Just wipe your index finger across where you want to cut it, and then use a glass cutter, dipped in turpentine. The carbide cutter I used, could be filled with turpentine. And then you use a straight ruler-like piece of wood, that you fasten onto the glass with some rubber padded quick grips.. And then slide the cutter - not hard or too fast, but just so you can hear it makes a squeeky sound ! Just be careful when you break it off. :o)

  9. #9
    Worker 11811's Avatar
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    The woman who lives next door owns a business where she makes jewelery out of beach glass. She does all her cutting, drilling and shaping under water.

    Her husband designed several work stations that have water trays and rubber clamps to keep the work piece submerged while it is being shaped.

    The way I understand, the water dampens vibrations that would otherwise cause the glass to shatter.
    Randy S.

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    http://www.flickr.com/photos/randystankey/

  10. #10
    Whiteymorange's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Lyga View Post
    daleeman: I don't thing that the very, very slight rough surface of the anti-Newton glass will do anything different for a viewfinder window.

    OK: Let's see if I can get away with this (please comment): If I first oil the thin glass and then strongly make ONE hard pass with the ruler-guided safety razor will that be sufficient to score the line? - David Lyga
    David,
    A razor will most likely not work on glass. The carbide cutter is harder than the glass, a razor is not. What you want is not a cut in the glass, but a scratch. After scratching a line along a steel ruler or other a straight-edge, I place a dowel (and you would need a thin one) directly under the scratch, a piece of paper towel over the glass and gently press down on each side of the dowel. When I'm lucky, the glass parts at the line of the scratch, when I'm not, I have to clean up the little uneven bits with a tile nibbler or glass pliers (used by stained-glass workers). A carborundum sharpening stone works as well.

    Many commonly available glass cutters have a sort of bulb at the end of the handle. I watched a master stained-glass worker cut intricate designs by using that steel ball to tap on the underside of the glass along the scratch just before he broke the piece free. He said that the vibrations from the tapping actually cracked the glass along the line, making even curved cuts come out clean. I have also used the bottle-cutting trick of heating the glass gently with a torch or a flame and then rubbing an ice cube along the line. It's over-kill for what you want to do, but it works for me in difficult situations.

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