Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 71,809   Posts: 1,581,535   Online: 929
      
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 17
  1. #1
    Lionel1972's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    France
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    199

    Advice wanted for fixing Toyo 45C rear standard

    Hi everyone,

    I have a Toyo 45C 4x5 monorail view camera that has been damaged during international shipping. The rear standard frame got pulled so strongly from the block while hanging from the rail in its case during shipping that it sheared off the screws which tie it securely to the block. The scews seem fine but the holes seems useless now as one can pull the rear standard up from its block easily.
    I'm looking for advices on the best way to fix this. I'm thinking about gluing the screws in the block holes. Anyone who has had this problem before? What type of glue would be wise?
    Thanks for your help.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails P1180867.jpg   P1180871.jpg   P1180873.jpg  
    Last edited by Lionel1972; 04-12-2013 at 06:42 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  2. #2
    Marvin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Williamston, NC USA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    263
    Have you tried the Toyo parts dept. I needed a part for my 45CX and they shipped it right away. They were also able to email me parts diagrams for my camera with part numbers. Hope this helps.
    Marvin

  3. #3
    Lionel1972's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    France
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    199
    Thanks for the hint. I'll try to contact the Toyo website.
    Have you been able to unmount your Toyo easily without special tools?
    I wish I could just replace the base and find a way to screw in the screws back.

  4. #4
    AgX
    AgX is offline

    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Germany
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    9,031
    Other than replacing screws and that pivoting part the screws fit in, I would drill/cut a one size larger thread, drill out the holes at the standard and fix everything with larger screws.

  5. #5
    Mike Wilde's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Misissauaga Canada
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    2,939
    Images
    29
    Mix of hardwood coarse sawdust and white PVA glue. Force into holes with a toothpick.

    The sawdust allows the filler to flex somewhat when the screw is driven in after the glue has set.
    my real name, imagine that.

  6. #6
    Lionel1972's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    France
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    199
    Thanks Agx and Mike for your advices.
    I'm thinking also about epoxy glue especially designed for metal. I read it dries in about 1 hour and gains definitive strength after 4 hours.

  7. #7
    AgX
    AgX is offline

    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Germany
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    9,031
    I doubt that Mike's way would work, seen the possible forces and the holes being more or less flat inside now. (But I've never done that...)
    But it yields the possibility to de-install everything! I would only glue the screws directly (then with epoxy heat-set glue) if one still could exchange the whole pivoting assembly when spares should be available.

    A stronger alternative to Mike's idea might be using heat-set epoxy with metal powder added.

  8. #8
    Lionel1972's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    France
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    199
    Well I've found an epoxy glue designed for metal to metal that is said to be extremely strong (270 kg/cm2). Since I have no way to access the screws to tighten them even if I manage to remake the holes, I'm planning on gluing directly the surface of he rotating disk of the rear standard to the base plate where the holes are located. I probably won't need to de-install it if I manage to make it work fine glued.

  9. #9
    AgX
    AgX is offline

    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Germany
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    9,031
    Quote Originally Posted by Lionel1972 View Post
    Well I've found an epoxy glue designed for metal to metal that is said to be extremely strong (270 kg/cm2). Since I have no way to access the screws to tighten them even if I manage to remake the holes, I'm planning on gluing directly the surface of he rotating disk of the rear standard to the base plate where the holes are located. I probably won't need to de-install it if I manage to make it work fine glued.
    Then there is good chance that the glue (depending on its viscosity) runs into the slit surrounding the pivot or onto the surrounding part of the base, in either case make the standard stick to the base.


    If you should slide off the dove-tail glider from the standard, you should get access to those screws, sooner or later.
    I guess...
    Last edited by AgX; 04-12-2013 at 08:07 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  10. #10
    Lionel1972's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    France
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    199
    Quote Originally Posted by AgX View Post
    Then there is good chance that the glue (depending on its viscosity) runs into the slit surrounding the pivot or onto the surrounding part of the base, in either case make the standard stick to the base.


    If you should slide off the dove-tail glider from the standard, you should get access to those screws, sooner or later.
    I guess...
    Yes I guess I could run some tests on see-thru surfaces to determine which minimal amount of glue I should put on the rotating disk so it doesn't spill out of its boundaries.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin