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  1. #31
    Tom1956's Avatar
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    Now what I'm wondering for a month from now, when it comes to black re-edging of the doublet, is if acrylic base black should be used, to avoid possible bleeding from an oil base paint re-dissoving the sap at that time and leaching into the sandwich. I might note that there is quite a bit of edge surface area, as the edge of the back element is ground at quite an inward angle. I certainly don't like the idea of a black sharpie pen. Not exactly a hard substance in thicker coats.

  2. #32

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom1956 View Post
    Now what I'm wondering for a month from now, when it comes to black re-edging of the doublet, is if acrylic base black should be used, to avoid possible bleeding from an oil base paint re-dissoving the sap at that time and leaching into the sandwich. I might note that there is quite a bit of edge surface area, as the edge of the back element is ground at quite an inward angle. I certainly don't like the idea of a black sharpie pen. Not exactly a hard substance in thicker coats.
    Black lacquer. I've used RustOleum flat black with success, over 20 years ago and everything is just fine. If the edges aren't exposed to light within the lens, it doesn't matter if the paint is flat, semi flat, or gloss. If the cemented pair mounts in a metal cell, there will not be room for any but the very thinnest coat of blacking. It doesn't matter how durable whatever you use is, as it will not see any wear except for reassembly. Quite a few old lenses wre just smoked black.

    Edit - I forgot to mention that you can make a black lacquer with shellac and lampblack.
    Last edited by E. von Hoegh; 08-19-2013 at 10:15 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  3. #33
    Jon Goodman's Avatar
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    I never had a problem with a Sharpie pen. As Mr. von Hoegh correctly notes, thickness is important. You don't want it to be too thick or you'll just scrape it off as you re-install the element. Good luck.
    Jon

  4. #34
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    It's strange that this thread popped up today after these weeks, because I was going to pull it up for a final update for the archives. My job turned out beautiful. As good as I could ever hoped for. As far as edge blackening I just used a magic marker. But as for the overall job, my first one, on a Hasselblad lens no less--the job turned out beautifully. Thanks everybody.
    Last edited by Tom1956; 08-31-2013 at 03:11 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  5. #35

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    I have kept my eye on this thread for weeks and what can I say - good job! It takes some serious cohones to take on a task like this and you succeeded!

  6. #36
    Jon Goodman's Avatar
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    I'm glad to hear it did!
    Jon

  7. #37
    Tom1956's Avatar
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    Thanks guys--EvH, JG, and the rest. To put the matter to bed with the intent to inspire others to jump on some repair job you're afraid of, put it in atother perspective. On this one, what did I have to lose? A 250 or 350 dollar lens if I fouled it up? Think about something else. Like a Cancer Center of America commercial. In that light, a botched-up lens job still has me being a lot better off than THOSE people. So get out your tools and your guts, use some sense, refuse to be beaten, and it'll work out. There's no excuse for knucklehead-boob work.

  8. #38
    lxdude's Avatar
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    Knuckleheads have boobs?
    I do use a digital device in my photographic pursuits when necessary.
    When someone rags on me for using film, I use a middle digit, upraised.

  9. #39
    Jon Goodman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lxdude View Post
    Knuckleheads have boobs?
    It is most common if they lack the Y chromosome, but yes...knuckleheads can have boobs. And if they don't, they could attach as many as they wanted/needed using Canada balsam.
    Jon

  10. #40
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    Thanks, Jon. You can always be counted on for a serious explanation.
    I do use a digital device in my photographic pursuits when necessary.
    When someone rags on me for using film, I use a middle digit, upraised.

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