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  1. #11

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    I will be creating an insert with some ground glass (probably tracing paper lol) recessed slightly to match the recess of the DDS, that way when I focus onto the ground glass it will be the same thing that the film 'sees' when I do the exposure.

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by John Koehrer View Post
    I too would go with a used back. Because.............
    The front of the focusing frame and the ground glass is known as the "T" dimension. It's the setback from the face of the frame to the ground glass. To focus and then have your film in the same plane this has to be accurate.
    And believe me, it is a major b*tch to machine without expensive tools. Took me a whole day of tedious sanding...

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by m1tch View Post
    I will be creating an insert with some ground glass (probably tracing paper lol) recessed slightly to match the recess of the DDS, that way when I focus onto the ground glass it will be the same thing that the film 'sees' when I do the exposure.
    The most accurate insert is an DDS itself, you can cut a hole through the septum and use a diffusing gel as a ground glass. A bit destructive, yes, but rather accurate and simple.

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by VPooler View Post
    The most accurate insert is an DDS itself, you can cut a hole through the septum and use a diffusing gel as a ground glass. A bit destructive, yes, but rather accurate and simple.
    I will see if I want to destroy one, I only have 3 DDS and they are all in good condition, I will perhaps look around to see if there are any bulk job lots of them on ebay before destroying one of the current ones lol

  5. #15

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    If you want el cheapo DDS-es, contact Peter Walnes (https://secure.peterwalnes.com/), I got mine from him for peanuts. He has none listed on his webstore but you can e-mail him anyway, maybe he has some left. He is a great guy, I can recommend him. Fleabay has extortion prices on 'em, seen regular Fidelitys go for 50 quid a piece. But you might find an as-is one for next to nothing if you are willing to spend some time looking.

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by VPooler View Post
    If you want el cheapo DDS-es, contact Peter Walnes (https://secure.peterwalnes.com/), I got mine from him for peanuts. He has none listed on his webstore but you can e-mail him anyway, maybe he has some left. He is a great guy, I can recommend him. Fleabay has extortion prices on 'em, seen regular Fidelitys go for 50 quid a piece. But you might find an as-is one for next to nothing if you are willing to spend some time looking.
    Thanks for the site, unfortunatly its not good for my bank balance as I have just seen an industar 22 lens I have been looking around for lol

  7. #17

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    The flange distance of a DDS is 5-something millimeters. Plywood comes in 6mm thickness. Few passes with a planer and voila!
    http://home.earthlink.net/~eahoo/page8/filmhold.html

  8. #18

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    I just meansued the flange distance, it is indeed 5mm, its 2mm to the top of the dark slide, I have built my 'ground glass' with the use of some 10mm foamcore board (its actually quite solid as im using it for the lens board as well). Basically I will attach some baking paper (the white sort) onto the viewer, then add in a 5mm boarder of foamcore board (still need to purchase) onto it so that it spaces it off the 5mm needed.

    I have just basically finished both standards now, I will look at getting one of those macro sliders - probably the 200mm one - and get some captive nuts into the bottom of the standards to screw into.

    I am going to be adding some 'bag bellows' which are the alternative to the folding bellows for camera (such as mine) which will have quite a wide lens but also allows any other movements should I want to add any at a later date.

    I might also look into adding some sort of handle onto the tripod socket on the base if I do hand hold the camera as an option.

  9. #19

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    I used the 200mm one too (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fotomate-200...-/300794593182). Make sure that the one you are getting has a tripod socket in the center - that way you can flip the rail and put the front standard on the "slider" and still be able to mount it on a tripod. The rail has the second tripod socket on the slider/bottom thingy and with one of the two screws provided you can lock the standard in place. Probably the easiest rack-and-pinion focus system ever.
    The rail has a groove, so if you make the mounting plate for the back round, you can also have back swing. Tilt and shift for the back is a tad bit more complicated to make but still very doable. If you want more pictures of my beast and how I made it, let me know.

  10. #20

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    I am getting a 200mm one with a tripod socket in the centre, I think the smaller 100mm movement ones only have the tripod socket at the end. I won't be using movements on this camera, this is more like a proof of concept and more like a 'point and shoot' LF camera rather than a technical one.

    Just had a thought, I am currently thinking about mounting the lens as they are normally mounted to the lens board with the lens (being thin) mounted on the front of the board. This means that the focal distance is from the rear element to the film plane which is probably around 70mm (need to go and measure again).

    As my lenses will barrel lenses it might be an idea to have the lens half and half in the standard lens board position - this might mean that the rear element of the lens starts say 30mm back from the lens board meaning that the lens board would need to be 100mm away and not 70mm.

    It will mean that I could just use standard bellows but have the wider lenses (if 2 element barrel lenses) to be mounted slightly deeper into the lens board. I was thinking about using velcro or something to have a change of bellows depending on the lens being used.

    It would mean that I could mount the normal 150mm F/L lenses to the front of the board and simply move the wider lenses slightly inside.

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