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  1. #21

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    Yup, that's a good idea when you are using wide angle lenses. But 70mm is plenty of space, mine is 75mm and I am using regular tapered bellows and can even do some movements at infinity.
    Velcro might deteriorate over time and not seal up properly, use frames and wingnuts to secure them.

  2. #22

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    I won't be able to have tapered bellows due to the size of the lenses I am about to make, I will look into some different options for it, I am trying to keep everything as simple as possible.

    So far the tools and equipment I have used:

    Saw
    Hammer
    Wood glue
    Craft knife
    10mm foam board - around £1 worth
    Few small nails (panel pins) - basically free
    Offcuts of pine - basically free

    The expensive parts will be the macro slider (probably about twice the cost of the camera body) and the lens, but thats ok as it can be used elsewhere as well.

  3. #23
    Steve Smith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by m1tch View Post
    I won't be able to have tapered bellows due to the size of the lenses I am about to make
    It might still be possible. The bellows I offered to you are only slightly tapered. The front is still quite large. I will try to post some pictures of them later.


    Steve.
    "People who say things won't work are a dime a dozen. People who figure out how to make things work are worth a fortune" - Dave Rat.

  4. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Smith View Post
    It might still be possible. The bellows I offered to you are only slightly tapered. The front is still quite large. I will try to post some pictures of them later.


    Steve.
    Awesome, thanks Steve, I will look forward to seeing what they are like, if you could also give some rough dimentions I will see if it will work with the standards I have made. Perhaps if they are slightly tapered one side can be attached to the outside of the rear standard and then attached to the inside of front standard.

  5. #25
    Steve Smith's Avatar
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    The actual bellows dimensions:

    Front (external) 130mm square
    Rear (external) 145mm square

    Bellows pleats measure about 12mm so subtract 24mm to give internal dimensions

    Collapsed, the bellows take up about 25mm. Extended, they are about 200mm long but will stretch to about 270mm.

    (they have been cut down from a longer set from a monorail camera).

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The hole in the plastic plate to the front is 86mm diameter. The plate is 139mm square

    There is a similar rear plate the same size with a 124mm square aperure which is fixed to an extra plate which I made which is 168mm square.

    It's probably easier for you to remove the bellows from the plates and make your own adaptor.

    Anyway, if they are of use to you, send me your address by PM and I will post them.


    Steve.
    "People who say things won't work are a dime a dozen. People who figure out how to make things work are worth a fortune" - Dave Rat.

  6. #26

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    Thanks for that, I will check out the dimentions on my standards to check if it will work, although my standards aren't square but I might be able to make them work, I will check the specs on my camera and get back to you.

  7. #27

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    Here are some photos of the build so far, I will be tidying up parts (they look slightly rough initially but ive sanded parts back and waxed them again).

    Front and rear standard (front on the right, rear on the left)



    There are some stops on the front standard 10mm in so that the lens board made from 10mm thick foam core fits flush.



    Rear standard (back of the camera facing towards) there is a cut away for the DDS to fit in



    DDS held in place with bands against cutout and pins



    DDS fits flush



    DDS against pins to keep film plane flat



    Front and rear showing what the camera will look like without bellows - the 10mm foam core lens board is fitted flush due to the shelves in the front standard



    This is the 'ground glass', this is fitted for focus in place of DDS and then slides out to put in the DDS, will have baking paper fitted on one side then spaced off 5mm as per specs on DDS for correct focus.



    Progress so far



    Sanded the standards and rewaxed a bit, smoothed the edges down and now looks much more presentable




    I will be putting a small strip of draft excluder around the edge of the front and rear standards internally to ensure a light tight seal.

    Next on the list is the bellow arrangement and cutting the hole for the lens etc I also need some 5mm foam core for the spacers on the ground glass, the interior of the camera will be sprayed black when everything is together.

  8. #28

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    Looks good! Will look even better with bellows attached and on the rail. Still, consider adding movements later - front swing is tons of fun!
    Click image for larger version. 

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    You could make U-shaped brackets out of aluminium relatively easily, giving you the option of tilt and shift. If you have gone far enough to mess with bellows, rail and various lenses then why not give total control of the image with movements? But don't take this the wrong way, this is your camera, do as you think is better for your application

  9. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by VPooler View Post
    Looks good! Will look even better with bellows attached and on the rail. Still, consider adding movements later - front swing is tons of fun!
    Click image for larger version. 

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    You could make U-shaped brackets out of aluminium relatively easily, giving you the option of tilt and shift. If you have gone far enough to mess with bellows, rail and various lenses then why not give total control of the image with movements? But don't take this the wrong way, this is your camera, do as you think is better for your application
    I will be adding something like a U shape bracket at some point, this is more like a mark 1 camera, its also to test out the lenses I am building as well, perhaps I will add movements to the mark 2 when I perhaps build another, this is more of a point and shoot and perhaps a portrait camera/landscape rather than anything creative. I am going to keep it as simple as I can to start with then add other bits later once I have ironed out any issues when this one is complete

  10. #30

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    You have succesfuly inspired me to build a proper wide angle for my soon-to-be 4x5. I am going for the rapid-rectilinear design, perhaps 75mm focal length and make it fit some Copal for aperture control and proper shuttering :P
    But kudos to you for making probably the world's cheapest 4x5 setup if not including various pinholes.

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