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  1. #11
    shutterfinger's Avatar
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    p.s. the time and bulb levers are sticking.

  2. #12
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    Joe-keep at it, you'll get it. Download the manual that shutterfinger posted the link for (I did-thank you!). There are a couple of diagrams showing all of all the spring locations that will be incredibly helpful.
    Reid

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/rjbuzzclick/

    "If I had a nickel for every time I had to replace a camera battery, I'd be able to get the #@%&$ battery cover off!" -Me

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by shutterfinger View Post
    Graphex is a Rapax re badged.
    http://www.southbristolviews.com/pic...terService.pdf
    Yours is a #2.
    WOW - that's a very interesting document. Thanks.

  4. #14
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    IF you keep using the shutter in its current state it will deteriorate to a pile of some usable parts.
    Example #1- blade opening spring broke. I was able to make one from brass that worked but was not as strong as the original which is copper.
    Example #2- arrived with the pin in the timing gear next to the cable release socket broken off. It was run until it stopped. I made and installed a new pin.
    both shutters came back with speeds at the edge of tolerance for some speeds and within tolerance on the other speeds except for 1/200 and 1/400 speeds.
    Back to doing a CLA on a #2 Graphex.
    Wollensak Raptars were re badged Optar for Graflex Corp. cameras.

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by shutterfinger View Post
    JOE,
    you apparently ignored my post...
    Thanks for persisting through my short sightedness - I admit I was skimming the replies I the first time saw it and missed that the link was the whole point of your post.

    What an amazing resource! I'd have appreciated having it even if I wasn't having issues with the shutter right now. I have the .pdf saved now and certainly hope I can confirm whether or not I have the spring placed correctly, but it sounds like you're suggesting more serious attention is in order here. Nothing resembling my specific symptoms appears in the troubleshooting list, is there anything specific you think may be needed here or just a general CLA? I should mention that the issue cocking the shutter when the speed is set between 1/10 and 1 sec. seems to have worked itself out with some use. The chief issue that remains is simply that shutter durations are about double what is marked which I understand is pretty common with these shutters.

    I'm also curious about all the references to M and X synchronization but this shutter has no selector as this shutter has no such selector and the terminals are just marked X. Is this a special version, or maybe M synchro was phased out at some point?

    -Joe
    Last edited by eyesage; 09-06-2013 at 05:30 PM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: Clarity

  6. #16
    shutterfinger's Avatar
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    The Rapax came in 3 versions
    No flash sync,
    Full flash sync M-F-X as covered by the manual. M, red or black and F are types of flash bulbs; X is electronic flash.
    X sync only.

    The X sync only has a simpler flash sync parts and is fairly easy to service as some components are the same as the full sync shutter.
    The speeds being slow says the shutter is due a full disassembly, clean, lube, reassembly. It will stop and die.
    See: http://www.graflex.org/helpboard/viewtopic.php?t=6103 (scroll down to the pictures)

    They are not as difficult as they seem. Keep each sections parts separate from the others for easier identification.
    A trace of oil is all that is needed where oil is called for, a dab of white lithium grease or similar about the size of a straight pin head or less is all that is needed where grease is called for.
    Use a degreaser that leaves no residue to clean the metal parts. I use CRC Quickdry electrical contact cleaner. Isopropyl Alcohol works well also.
    Last edited by shutterfinger; 09-06-2013 at 08:03 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  7. #17
    shutterfinger's Avatar
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    Tip: use a digital P&S in macro mode and take pictures as you remove parts as this makes reassembly easier.
    Rub extra fine powdered graphite into the shutter blades and aperture blades and their pivots without bending them or leaving fibers behind.

  8. #18
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    To expand on shutterfinger's good advice...When I disassemble shutters, I have one of those plastic "bead boxes"-basically a flat rectangular plastic box that's divided up into compartments. Each component of the shutter I remove, along with it's associated screws and springs, goes into one compartment. When you get ready to reassemble, you just start at the last compartment and work backwards. I use naphtha, white lithium grease, and gun oil.
    Reid

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/rjbuzzclick/

    "If I had a nickel for every time I had to replace a camera battery, I'd be able to get the #@%&$ battery cover off!" -Me

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