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  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by John Koehrer View Post
    If it's an "egermancy" a bit of clear nail polish to hold the frayed bits together & heat shrink tubing.

    I doubt there's enough give in the tubing to allow the spring wrap to stretch. But! "shrugs"
    Isn't that what Poland had in 1939?

  2. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by pbromaghin View Post
    Heck, everybody has a roll of duct tape laying around. Cost is zero.

    Seriously, a layer, maybe 1/2 inch by whatever length, with the glue side out to cover the cable, and another layer, glue side in to attach to the good part of the wrapper at each end of the blowout, and you're in business.
    I don't. But I do have heat shrink tubing, and what I would do is cut one piece to cover the break, shrink it, then put on another overlapping piece - that is, covering the first piece and a half or three quarters of an inch on each end of the healthy casing.

  3. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by AgX View Post
    Ever thought of a pneumatic one?
    That's all I use on large format cameras. It's impossible to jiggle the camera with it.

  4. #24
    AgX
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    And why not on smaller cameras?
    The punch of the piston?

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbromaghin View Post
    Heck, everybody has a roll of duct tape laying around. Cost is zero.

    Seriously, a layer, maybe 1/2 inch by whatever length, with the glue side out to cover the cable, and another layer, glue side in to attach to the good part of the wrapper at each end of the blowout, and you're in business.
    Duct tape/Gaffer tape is the last thing youn should use unless it's all you have. The number of restorations I do where I have to spend time removing the residues, it's awful stuff, designed for a day ot twos use.

    Ian

  6. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by AgX View Post
    And why not on smaller cameras?
    The punch of the piston?
    Only if it's a V twin
    Some might say I have a bad attitude! Too bad.

  7. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by AgX View Post
    And why not on smaller cameras?
    The punch of the piston?
    On the 4x5 Linhof and the Rollei, there isn't enough clearance between the cable release socket and the lensboard to screw in the slave piston assembly. On 35mm SLRs, I use mirror lockup and the self timer instead.

    The 6 or so feet of small dia. tubing between the squeeze bulb and the piston screwed into the shutter gives very effective isolation.

  8. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Grant View Post
    Duct tape/Gaffer tape is the last thing youn should use unless it's all you have. The number of restorations I do where I have to spend time removing the residues, it's awful stuff, designed for a day ot twos use.

    Ian
    Amen. I'm pretty sure I've never owned a roll fo the cr@p. I know I've never bought one.

  9. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by John Koehrer View Post
    Only if it's a V twin
    I'm sure you're referring to the Harley and other 45 degree single crankpin twins. A proper v-twin, such as the 90 degree Ducati (aptly named) has very good mechanical balance, abeit masked by the lopsided power strokes.

  10. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by E. von Hoegh View Post
    Amen. I'm pretty sure I've never owned a roll fo the cr@p. I know I've never bought one.
    You speak ill of the handyman's secret weapon. This guy will straighten you right out...

    http://www.youtube.com/user/RedGreenTV
    “You seek escape from pain. We seek the achievement of happiness. You exist for the sake of avoiding punishment. We exist for the sake of earning rewards. Threats will not make us function; fear is not our incentive. It is not death that we wish to avoid, but life that we wish to live.” - John Galt

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