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  1. #11

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    Use a chassis punch they are designed to make circular holes for components on an electrical chassis. They make a very neat hole which does not usually required any further work.[

    http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&key...l_40pbk94nge_e
    A rock pile ceases to be a rock pile the moment a single man contemplates it, bearing within him the image of a cathedral.

    ~Antoine de Saint-Exupery

  2. #12

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    Practice on some scrap metal first.

    Jeff

  3. #13
    L Gebhardt's Avatar
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    I've used a hole saw on linhof style boards with good results. The biggest was for a 12" Commercial Ektar which I think is an Ilex #4. I then tapped some holes for screws to mount the flange. With care it can be done on a small drill press. As others have said you must clamp things down well. I also used some cutting oil in a spray can.

  4. #14

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    Hole saws work well. I have also used woodworking Forstner bits, they work well, and make very clean holes, but you need to use a lubricant and a VERY slow feed, with the work peice held very securely.
    With something thin like a Graphic board I'd sandwich it between two pieces of wood.

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by darinwc View Post
    Hey there!
    I have a small drill press.
    What is the best way to cut holes in metal lensboards?
    Can I use a hole-saw or do I need large bits?

    THX.

    I'm guessing the hole will be something like 35mm to 50mm in diameter? Here's how I used to do it with simplest equipment.

    Take a compus and draw a circle in the exact diameter I need.
    Draw another circle (concentric) that is smaller. The size of this hole will depend on the drill bit you use.
    Drill a bunch of holes all around the circumference of this smaller hole. I used to use 3mm bits.
    Make sure, the outer edge of the holes are about 0.5 to 1mm inside of the outer (original) circle.
    Then use a diagonal clipper or a small saw and connect the holes, so the disk can be removed.
    Use a half round file to smooth it out to the diameter of the outer (original) circle.

    It's not that much of work, if you are talking about relatively thin aluminum material.
    Develop, stop, fix.... wait.... where's my film?

  6. #16
    adelorenzo's Avatar
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    It's not that complicated. I use a hole saw (regular one made for wood, not even one made for metal) to cut mine and a half-round file to clean it up. I clamp the board to a piece of scrap 2x4.

  7. #17

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    Just to add another choice, you could mark the circle, drill a small hole near to the inside edge of the circle and then cut around it using a metal cutting blade in a fretsaw/coping saw/piercing saw. I would be concerned about distorting the panel if you used a chassis punch as suggested.

  8. #18

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    Use a hole saw, it works great. Clamp it down well and use your slowest speed on the drill press. Feed the cutter slowly into the lens board.

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ashutterbug View Post
    Use a hole saw, it works great. Clamp it down well and use your slowest speed on the drill press. Feed the cutter slowly into the lens board.
    Hole saws for sure. Circle cutters have the extra height and diameter that need to be watched for. the board has tio be VERY secure. Well....so can hole saws, it's pretty exciting when the saw catches and spins the board especially if flesh is involved.
    Heavily sedated for your protection.

  10. #20

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    Not to offer a solution, but this topic reminds me of a time when I wanted a hole cut in a Sinar board (about 3mm aluminum). I had a machinist friend who was also a supervisor in a large plant's machine shop for many years. He also had a GRAND shop in his basement. He put the board in his lathe and starting cutting, but stopped just before breakout, then with his pinky poked the piece out. I asked how he knew when to stop cutting. He said he could tell by the cutting sound. I asked what if the material was a different material. He said it would have a different sound. We're talking experience here.

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