Originally Posted by Xmas
I've never seen a lens that worked properly if the helical isn't properly assembled. Pick a brand, any brand.
If one side short it won't make infinity and one side long won't focus closely.
Over the years I have had several Nikkor lenses with slight wobbles in the front element too. Every time it has been with lenses I have purchased new and used for years heavily until the focus became loose and dry sounding. In all cases the situation was resolved with a lens servicing. I chalk it up to being so cheap as to not having a lens overhauled when it needs an overhaul. My techs over the years have never been surprised by the situation, nor were they ever unable to rectify the situation for the price of a normal lens servicing. I never got the impression from them that the situation had anything to do with poor QC... but it is an interesting theory.
Originally Posted by elekm
The late 5cm series E had sufficient travel on inner and outer heliciod threads to allow different (pairs of) entry points for wear alleviation. The close focus and infinity stops are independent of the heliciod, the E has a coarse inner for its 90 degree focus turn from infinity to close in.
Originally Posted by John Koehrer
But the focus adjustment is limited and needs a matching pair of entry points. It is like a Rubic cube difficult if you cant see the topology.
The problem my lens had was absence of grease it had migrated.
When the trial fit worked ok (collimated) on moon, l screwed on the name plate ring.
Id not recommend it normally but it works ok as a salvage.
Takes about 15 minutes if you retain original entrypoints. The only special tool is darning needle to align the aperture mechanism on reassembly.
This is the response I found useful!
To be clear, on my 5cm f1.4 lens the springs are on the lens (not the body). A TINY amount of pressure with a well-placed miniature screwdriver solved the problem (lens wobbling in body mount) perfectly.
Originally Posted by winterclock
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