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Thread: home made easel

  1. #1

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    home made easel

    My 20 x 16 easel just gave up the ghost. It has fallen apart and I have no idea how to repair it. In fact I do not print beyond 16 x 12 so it was rather big and cumbersome for my purposes.

    Has anyone made their own easel? I have got by for the past few weeks with some mounting board on a hinge, but if anyone has any knowledge or experience of making a home made easel I would be interested.

    Les

    PS I do not buy things on e-bay (too boring to explain why)

  2. #2

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    If you're only making the same size prints or willing to make a few easels then I can't see it being too difficult. The hard part of easels is the moving arms to handle different sizes. But if you make multiple top pieces then you don't need arms. If that makes sense. Simple one size easels with a replaceable top shouldn't be that hard.

  3. #3
    rjr
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    Les,

    Use Google-Groups (rec.photo.darkroom archive) and search for "Sticky Easel" - that will give a you a recipe how to coat a plate with a sticky, non-permanent glue.
    Tschüss,
    Roman

  4. #4
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    If you already have a smaller four bladed easel, and use the 16x20 for that size alone, then buying a used two blade easel is not too big a deal. I have recently purchased two of them on ebay for less than $60 each, one of which is in very good condition (the other one is quite servicable as well, but boy is it ever "ugly!"). I would rather have been able to buy a four blade easel, but the prices are waaaay outaline in my opinion. The two blade is going to do just fine.
    John Voss

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  5. #5

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    another APUG member use's acrylic sheet with a appropiate hole cut in it. He's investigating getting some more made up for himself and me Needs a baseboard with stops to butt the paper and acrylic mask to to get it square.

  6. #6
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    I have made my own easels using 3/4 black foam core. The material is very flat and a easel for a 20x30 weighs about a pound (maybe less). A metal bladed easel is also flat, can weigh a lot and the blades can go out of square pretty quickly.

    On the edge of the board I glue a slotted lip. The lips are 2" strips of 3/4" foam core with 3/4" slots at 8" (16x20) 10" (20x20), 12" (20x24) and 15" (20x30). In the slots I place 20" X 3/4" x1" 'blades'. On bigger enlargements where flatness may be a problem I use smaller pieces of 3/4 foam core in the inner slots to hold the paper flat.

    This arrangement has worked ro me.

    *

  7. #7

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    I dont have a 'real' easel right now, though my solution isnt permanent and wont allow a complete edge to edge print, im doing quite well by using a very large psychology book and rubber bands. One band is around the front cover toward the binding to hold one long edge of the paper and another at the very edge of the opening to hold the other side of the paper. The paper goes under these rubber bands, its just barely under the band with no paper poking out of the side of the band that isnt facing the image area..the band covers about 2-3mm of the papers edge, and holds the paper flat enough for me! I never print edge to edge, usually leaving some white border.... this very cheap (not so great) solution works fine for me and my printing style
    "Where is beauty? Where I must will with my whole Will; where I will love and perish, that an image may not remain merely an image."



 

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