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Thread: Bending metal

  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by Aggie
    brass doesn't need the air cool to harden, it is non ferrous and thus is hardened by work. You anneal the metal to soften it. to harden it when it is non ferrous is to actually hammer bend or other wise mash it. You can also sand blast it to harden it.
    Sandblasting, or better - glass bead blasting, treats the surface, so for trying to avoid fractures which start at the surface, it is good. We first learned this by accident racing cars in the fifties when we sandblasted valve springs just to clean them and then they mysterously stopped breaking on the track. Now glass or media blasting is routine.

  2. #12
    Charles Webb's Avatar
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    I am jumping in simply to re-enforce Aggie's comments, they are dead on correct.

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Charles Webb
    I am jumping in simply to re-enforce Aggie's comments, they are dead on correct.
    Regardless of the question as to whether brass for a front standard is a good idea. From my experience, it seems to be a poor choice.

  4. #14

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    So let me see if I've got this right: If I choose brass, to bend it, I just need to hit it with the 'ol propane torch until it just starts turning red, at which point I can bend it into the shape I need. When finished, I don't want to stick it in cold water; rather, I want to boil it in vineagar for a few minutes?

    Thanks for the help

    Curtis

  5. #15
    Aggie's Avatar
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    you don't have to heat itin hot vinegar, that bath called a pickle is used to clean the junk that coats the surface when you anneal and work with it. Until you work with it, you don't really understand how dirt and encrusted with gunk it can get.

    BTW there are different grades of brass. Some are quite a bit stronger than others. I'll look up my old supplier. The stuff in hobby shops is the softer version because it is easier to use by the general public.

    This company sells small sheets of brass. The ones i use to work with are 4' x 6' I doubt you will need that much. Otto Frei, is located near me, and the people very friendly. They might even carry 14 guage if you ask them.

    http://www.ottofrei.com/store/produc...productid=7399
    Non Digital Diva

  6. #16

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    Curtis,
    If I were you I would re-think the design of your front standard. I used a similar design on the first 5 x 4 camera I made, but instead of 0.5 inch wide aluminium I used 2 inch wide stock. Even so, the finished result was nowhere near rigid enough. I cut a slot in the base of the U, to give me cross slide, and this weakened the design so much you could rock the front of the camera back and forewards with only moderate pressure. Making a lens cap exposure could cause it to move...
    For a 10 x 8 camera I would try to come up with something more rigid.
    Alan Clark

  7. #17
    MenacingTourist's Avatar
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    Curtis,

    Let me know if you need any help with this project. I live down the road from you in Springville and know a couple of metal fabricators, one of which owes me lots of favors. But mostly I want to help because this project sounds like a lot of fun.

    Alan.

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