Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 68,693   Posts: 1,482,430   Online: 773
      
Page 28 of 37 FirstFirst ... 1822232425262728293031323334 ... LastLast
Results 271 to 280 of 361
  1. #271

    Join Date
    May 2008
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    60

    Panoramische Oberlicht Loch KAmera (POLKA)

    Not a picture but a link to a document with lot of pictures of my (at this time three) anamorphic pinhole cameras. The paper is however in french, so questions for clarification (if needed) are welcome !

    Paul

  2. #272
    Ezzie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Sande i Vestfold, Norway
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    424
    Images
    186
    I hope I´m not boring you to death with further incarnations of the same camera, but the recent change was due to necessity, more than cosmetics. But when I did redesign the handle, I thought I´d do something different, which I think added to the camera´s looks.

    After the first trial run I found the existing handle to be too puny and cramped for comfort. Took design cues from one of flickr user adbieber´s creations ( http://www.flickr.com/photos/adbiebe...n/set-72157623... ). Much better grip for handheld shots now.





    I think my woodworking skills are improving. Which bodes well for the next project (winter 2010/11?)
    __________________
    Eirik (aka Ezzie)

    DIY 4x5 | DIY 6x17 | DIY 6x24 anarmorphic pinhole | Pentax' SV & SP 1000 | Rolleiflex | Kalloflex | Weltix | Royal 35-M | Leica M4-2 | Polaroid 250 | Polaroid 110A / 600SE conversion | DIY Polaroid View | DUO Polaroid TLR | Vito CL | Pentacon SIX | Kiev 6C | Canon EF | Mamiya 1000s

    My Blogspot
    My Flickr
    My APUG Gallery

  3. #273
    LarsHennings
    Hi, I have built a special shift wide lens camera only for the Schneider 47XL. It should be not expensiv, not complecated. It was for a travel to NYC to get the scyscrapers. For the 47XL is sharp from very of near the camera it is a fixfocus. 1,5 m away all the world looks sharp.
    You find an explanation with a drawing and an image here, it´s in German, sorry: http://www.larshennings.de/larshenni...w47xl-plan.pdf

    Gruß
    lars

  4. #274
    nick mulder's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Shooter
    8x10 Format
    Posts
    1,204
    Images
    14


    4th proper bellows made out of the leather from a relatively unsuccessful 3rd (it worked completely, but was just plain ugly)...

    370mm outer dimension with 21.5mm wide strips = just under 13" inside dimension that means it is large for 8x10" and too small for 11x14" ... But made in mind to test new techniques but it will end up on a Wetplate tailboard with a universal plate holder system that can take any size plate up to around 12" square.

    Extends completely to 850mm (33") if need be - easily 2/3rds that with no refolding required upon contraction - compress to 85mm (3.35")

    Should keep me happy until I get a much larger lens - although I suspect I may have reached the limit of size envy with my ~19" f5(ish) Voightlander anyway - my Dallmeyer 4A at least will be able to reach 1:1, the Voight maybe also ok at 1:1 due to the fact the iris is forward of the lens board anyway and the extra dimension of the holder and the rest of the camera body gumph

    Strips were laser cut in registration already out of 0.5mm clear PET plastic which was kept with strips of tape as you can see in the pictures for gluing, something I'll do every time from now on - compared to the amount of work involved and crap output of cutting it myself its goer from now on - I'm even considering buying a laser cutter myself, at least something CNC. I use clear strips as they become black enough anyway, and you can see where the adhesive isn't covering fully on the first side. I also had the bellows vacuum pressed with a bit of heat as an experiment - the heat did nothing as the adhesive wasn't a heat activated variety (nor a deactivated variety thankfully!). The press worked for half an hour and I did note some more compression on pulling it out - not sure if I'll continue doing it however. As the previous bellows had thicker strips, the older bend/creases could be seen phasing in and out of alignment in these newer ones, a bit of steam treatment over the winter soup making sorted that out (they smelled like vege stock), then compression for a week or so and some boot polish while I was otherwise occupied with work and there is now no trace of either carrots or the older creasing.

    You can see the seams of the inner and outer leather in photo 6 or 7 I think - leather on top for the pic but the seam will live on the bottom for the camera... Too hard to explain how I do it this way without pics, which I'll try to do for the next one (a larger tapered one, which will need a full hide to do, so far I've been working with half beasts :rolleyes - anyways, the way I do it means there is no overlap in the leather, much better for the eventual compressed dimension... It's a completely light proof butt joint of sorts. The linen interior joint does overlap, but the double size increase fits in the area that the extra dimension the corner folds introduce (leather wont do the same) - all joints angled so they don't get a chance to bunch in one spot, effectively meaning only about 3 strips worth bunch in any one area... The leather butt joint does have a slightly thicker dimension (glue) but as it is so small the smallest of gradients will offset it strip to strip...

    A lot of the info will make more sense to someone who has made a bellows or two previously - a lot of gotchas involved that can only be fully appreciated hands on (agree ?)

    They're a bit dusty at the mo' - will clean up once the mess making is over ...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_0135.JPG   IMG_0141.JPG   IMG_0142.JPG   IMG_0143.JPG   IMG_0151.JPG  

    IMG_0160.JPG   IMG_0166.JPG   IMG_0247.JPG   IMG_0248.JPG   IMG_0249.JPG  

    Last edited by nick mulder; 07-04-2010 at 09:19 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    Cleared the bowel problem, working on the consonants...

  5. #275

    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    15
    Looks like I didn't put up my pictures of the camera I made this summer. It took right around 3 weeks to complete. It's pretty rough in areas but I have been successfully taking many photographs this summer with it. I'm planning a second camera for maybe this school year or next summer that will be much slimmer and tailored to my needs more exactly. One of the things I did give up on was a spring back to contain a 4x5 holder. Instead I have a removable GG frame and it sits in a slot where the 4x5 holder can slide into. Here it is:


    \

    What I plan on improving is the overall bulk (I started this camera with the intention of a reversible back, so it is 180mm square, but I ended up simplifying it to a vertical position and have a lot of wasted space now), using a better bellows material, the front standard will be hinged like the older half-plate cameras, and the back will probably be an actual slot for a gg frame or a 4x5 holder to slide into snugly without needing little brass springs or anything.

  6. #276
    Ian Grant's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    West Midlands, UK, and Turkey
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    15,948
    Images
    148
    Missed this post before. Nice work Nick

    My bellows projects have ground to a halt at the moment as I can't find the adhesives I really want yet here where we live in Turkey.

    Patterns are ready, much the same as yours, but both tapered sets.

    Ian

    Quote Originally Posted by nick mulder View Post


    4th proper bellows made out of the leather from a relatively unsuccessful 3rd (it worked completely, but was just plain ugly)...

    370mm outer dimension with 21.5mm wide strips = just under 13" inside dimension that means it is large for 8x10" and too small for 11x14" ... But made in mind to test new techniques but it will end up on a Wetplate tailboard with a universal plate holder system that can take any size plate up to around 12" square.

    Extends completely to 850mm (33") if need be - easily 2/3rds that with no refolding required upon contraction - compress to 85mm (3.35")

    Should keep me happy until I get a much larger lens - although I suspect I may have reached the limit of size envy with my ~19" f5(ish) Voightlander anyway - my Dallmeyer 4A at least will be able to reach 1:1, the Voight maybe also ok at 1:1 due to the fact the iris is forward of the lens board anyway and the extra dimension of the holder and the rest of the camera body gumph

    Strips were laser cut in registration already out of 0.5mm clear PET plastic which was kept with strips of tape as you can see in the pictures for gluing, something I'll do every time from now on - compared to the amount of work involved and crap output of cutting it myself its goer from now on - I'm even considering buying a laser cutter myself, at least something CNC. I use clear strips as they become black enough anyway, and you can see where the adhesive isn't covering fully on the first side. I also had the bellows vacuum pressed with a bit of heat as an experiment - the heat did nothing as the adhesive wasn't a heat activated variety (nor a deactivated variety thankfully!). The press worked for half an hour and I did note some more compression on pulling it out - not sure if I'll continue doing it however. As the previous bellows had thicker strips, the older bend/creases could be seen phasing in and out of alignment in these newer ones, a bit of steam treatment over the winter soup making sorted that out (they smelled like vege stock), then compression for a week or so and some boot polish while I was otherwise occupied with work and there is now no trace of either carrots or the older creasing.

    You can see the seams of the inner and outer leather in photo 6 or 7 I think - leather on top for the pic but the seam will live on the bottom for the camera... Too hard to explain how I do it this way without pics, which I'll try to do for the next one (a larger tapered one, which will need a full hide to do, so far I've been working with half beasts :rolleyes - anyways, the way I do it means there is no overlap in the leather, much better for the eventual compressed dimension... It's a completely light proof butt joint of sorts. The linen interior joint does overlap, but the double size increase fits in the area that the extra dimension the corner folds introduce (leather wont do the same) - all joints angled so they don't get a chance to bunch in one spot, effectively meaning only about 3 strips worth bunch in any one area... The leather butt joint does have a slightly thicker dimension (glue) but as it is so small the smallest of gradients will offset it strip to strip...

    A lot of the info will make more sense to someone who has made a bellows or two previously - a lot of gotchas involved that can only be fully appreciated hands on (agree ?)

    They're a bit dusty at the mo' - will clean up once the mess making is over ...

  7. #277
    Mustafa Umut Sarac's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    İstanbul - Türkiye
    Shooter
    35mm RF
    Posts
    3,411
    Images
    104
    Ian , I can help from Istanbul. PM me.

  8. #278
    nick mulder's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Shooter
    8x10 Format
    Posts
    1,204
    Images
    14
    Too many half built projects laying about and a heap of 11x14" in the freezer so I decided to build a 1:1 magnification only camera (no focus) for a new Petzval I have here...

    The plan was zero design - just GO! COMPLETE THE DAMN THING!! - I had delusions of a rule that I wasn't allowed to ponder a design issue for longer than 10minutes, but once again it took me ages (work, travel etc...)

    Its a Voightlander 18" f4 or so - like the 7B, but longer and correspondingly slower - very nice specimen from Bulgaria, I know the seller and at least one other keen buyer lurks the forums here and there (hello!)

    I shoot fairly composed portraiture at this mag so no focus is no issue - I can always move the camera or sitter (and cat, added for scale incidentally) - will either lay it on a table, or use two tripods so I wont crack the base when I load the holders...

    meow

    The pile of bits you also see is a wet plate camera I'm building (rear tilt and swing only) that I started even before this one - should get about an 11" to 12" square image size out of it, pretty much a tailboard but with a lead screw focus with a 'quick release' system of sorts - we'll see!

    After all of this and once I get my CNC mill working is an attempt at a 11x14" field camera that can take huge lenses - based on in no particular order:

    Ebony
    Chamonix
    Deardorff
    Canham

    As you can see, a hybrid of all these would be impossible, but those are the ones I'm looking at may as well learn from the best - but in the spirit of "imitation is the sincerest form of limitation" (or flatulence) I'll have a crack at my own invention also

    >>>>groan, I've just realised that I've still got to wire and mount the dang PC plug on the Packard shutter board
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_0116.JPG   IMG_0118.JPG   IMG_0122.JPG   IMG_0121.JPG   IMG_0107.JPG  

    IMG_0109.JPG   IMG_0104.JPG   IMG_0111.JPG   IMG_0123.JPG  
    Cleared the bowel problem, working on the consonants...

  9. #279
    SMBooth's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Melbourne, North/West
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    926
    Images
    7

    MY 6x17

    OK not as flash and technical as some here, but my finished 6x17 with fixed at hyperfocal 90mm. Made of timber as a test to see if I could make one, but worked out so well I thought it can stay as it is.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 6x17 Back.jpg   6x17 Front.jpg  

  10. #280
    Andy38's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Lyon , France
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    148
    Here is a rangefinder camera, the "DM-II", made by the same guy who had built a SLR ("DM-Flex").
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails P1091957.jpg  



 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin