Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 70,206   Posts: 1,531,800   Online: 841
      
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 29
  1. #11

    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    6,242
    Quote Originally Posted by bshaffer
    I need to repair the stripped holes for the handle on my 8x10 2 D-- the need for clearance for the bellows is apparent. epoxy repair may be ok and then redrilling for the screws for the leather handle,but not sure how secure. I know not to pick up the camera solely by the handle -but wonder what other techniques might work -ie: small hex head on the bellows side with nut on the handle side? not an authentic look but ....
    . actually someone had tried to repair w/ brass screws from the top and bending the tail portion to keep it from pulling thru but it left a sharp edge towards the bellows -that I'm not comfortable with. I've used epoxy wood repair for yrs on restoration projects but think it will eventually fail -just looking for other ideas --thanks barry
    You might also remove the bellows and bring countersunk machine screws up from below...brass self locking acorn nuts above should finish the job.
    Art is a step from what is obvious and well-known toward what is arcane and concealed.

    Visit my website at http://www.donaldmillerphotography.com

  2. #12
    Dave Parker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    4,049
    Quote Originally Posted by bshaffer
    greetings bdial,
    it looks like a mm or so for clearance as the bellows folds shut -I may be able to use a small hex nut and dremel it almost flush and CA glue the hex head to the screw . good thought .I also thought about grinding a machine screw head as thin as possible and mounting the nut on the tang for the leather strap. thanks for your thoughts .
    I'm sure that most that have a 8x10 2d don't rely on the leather handle -for more than stabilization -- not for total lifting .
    thanks barry
    I carry my 2D 8x10 by the handle all the time and have not had any problems, of course I have the original brass strap holders and had to make a new handle for it, by the way the orginal strap loops were not screwed in, they were rivets that had something like six legs on the inside that are compressed againt the inside part of the wood on top.

    Once I made a new handle for it in the same shape as the orginal out of leather, I wet the leather then squeezed it into place has worked out quite well, with no hint of weakness.

    Dave

  3. #13

    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    South of Rochester, NY, USA
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    256
    I have yet to find replacements for those split rivets, but I have repaired a couple of cameras that used them.

    I used #1 brass pan head machine screws on one that had nice tight holes. A flat washer and nut on the inside held with Loctite. The second had enlarged holes, so I used #2 screws. The screws were trimed to the bottom of the nut.

    Take another look at your clearance. One millimeter seems awfully tight? And there's more and more room as the bellows collapses since it's larger in the rear than the front. There should only be a possible problem with the bellows fully extended, but then it gets narrower with extension. I had no clearance problems on mine.

    If you can find T-nuts in that small of a size, it would certainly be a nice solution. I wouldn't recommend doing anything that would remove wood as there's very little of it up there to begin with...

  4. #14
    John Bartley's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    13 Critchley Avenue, PO Box 36, Monteith Ont, P0K1P0
    Shooter
    8x10 Format
    Posts
    1,397
    Quote Originally Posted by bshaffer
    I need to repair the stripped holes for the handle on my 8x10 2 D--
    My vote would be to drill the stripped holes big enough to take a hardwood plug, glue in the hardwood plug, drill pilot holes small enough that the new screws will be very snug and then screw the handle back on.

    This is how I put my 8x10 Agfa back together after it (literally) fell apart and it's now bulletproof.

    cheers

  5. #15

    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Northern Aquitaine
    Shooter
    35mm RF
    Posts
    4,913
    What about reversing the bolts? A small dome head machine screw through from the camera inside should still leave enough clearance for the bellows; then cut the outside to length and finish with a dome nut.

    As I am not familiar with the camera -- I've not handled one in 25 years or so -- there may be a fundamental flaw in this suggestion, but I thought it worth mentioning.

    Cheers,

    Roger (www.rogerandfrances.com)

  6. #16

    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    ky
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    25
    Greg,Jim and Wayne
    thanks for the ideas -I keep looking for an excuse to buy a metal lathe '-)
    I'll relook at the project this morn and see how tough it would be to accurately place a T or blind nut -the screw holes have been "hogged" out by past attempts at repair-and I need to refill those voids ..so everyones advice will come in handy and I like Jim's idea of thin brass stock as a reinforcer strip -
    have a good day and thanks again
    barry

  7. #17

    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    ky
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    25
    dear roger,
    hope this isn't a duplicate post -my cable connection just failed to locate the server-don't you just hate that!
    my return post to you said thanks -that you suggestion would work very well and it was one of my first considerations. I'm thinking about how much I want this to look like original equipment as some one before me, has done a very nice job in restoring this -sans the handle. brass screws were the orig equip -but I think dome nuts would look fine also . thanks
    have a good day
    barry

  8. #18

    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Northern Aquitaine
    Shooter
    35mm RF
    Posts
    4,913
    Dear Barry,

    You're welcome. My criterion on these matters is partly 'what is original?' but also 'what would the manufacturer think of this modification?' If it's in the spirit, and probably wasn't used to save money or because the manufacturer wouldn't have expected his camera to last that long, then I have little compunction.

    Of course I'd them spend ages trying to source, make or strip brass dome muts, probably with a 'temporary' (10-30 year) butt-ugly plain nut in place until I succeeded...

    Oh well, using 'em is more important than making 'em look pretty -- hence the hand-filed brass lug on the cocking lever of the Compur shutter of the first-series 38/4.5 Zeiss Biogon on my Alpa 12 WA...

    Oh; and you post wasn't repeated.

    Cheers,

    Roger

  9. #19

    Join Date
    May 2006
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    775
    Micro Fasteners has some brass rivets that might work. They also have some really tiny rivets (1/32 shaft diameter), but those are only listed in the printed catalog.

    The T nuts with a nice brass screw would probably be closest to the factory brass rivets, while still being serviceable.

  10. #20

    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Joyce, WA
    Shooter
    Plastic Cameras
    Posts
    994
    Sorry if someone's mentioned this but how about some threaded inserts- they're big enough that predilling for them would probably remove all bad wood and then you could use machine screws. Most decent hardware stores have them in brass and zinc plate. Sort of like t-nuts but you can install them from the face side without removing the bellows (just don't drill into the bellows! )

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin