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  1. #21
    df cardwell's Avatar
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    Have we asked WHY the screws gave way ? Stripped ? Why ?

    The cause for many 'screw fatalities' is brass polish. Brasso is an express villain.

    Many cameras have had liquid penetrate screw holes. The resulting rot loses its grip, and the handle pulls right out. Oops. But the finish is still nice !

    To fix THAT problem, you can use runny, slow curing epoxy to fill in the wood fibre, then re-do the screws, or cut away the damaged wood and set the screws into a 'putty' of epoxy thickened with micro-balloons ( think: fried air ).

    OR, for the handle, drill through holes in the place of screw holes, and fix a mending plate to the inside of the camera body, and use machine screws to fasten the handle.

    Moral: always be suspicious of old cameras with shiny brightwork.

    EDIT: Yes, the 2D originally had rivets. If THEY are replaced by screws,
    try to figure out why. And check for other damage.

    .
    "One of the painful things about our time is that those who feel certainty are stupid,
    and those with any imagination and understanding are filled with doubt and indecision"

    -Bertrand Russell

  2. #22

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    wow I'm overwhelmed with your gracious advice everyone -thanks
    to bring things up to date -yes the original attachment was a rivet like device -like a cotter pin that had the legs splayed out -for retention -dave df and greg were correct -I had an old 5x7 2d and looked at it - I would now guess that when the 8x10 was refinished that someone pried the "rivets " loose and enlarged and tore the original holes -then used longer brass screws and bent the tip at an angle for increased retention. when they reapplied the handle.
    to date -I've epoxied the holes with sawdust included and will retap later --I like the cotter pin like design and will see what I can come up with.
    thanks all and have a nice day
    barry

  3. #23

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    opps ...meant to include richsbv ... for the rivet correction . sorry richsbv
    thanks barry

  4. #24
    Jim Jones's Avatar
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    My local Ace hardware store has a variety of solid, hollow, and split rivits with as small as 1/8" diameter shanks. If the holes have been enlarged to accomodate screws, hardware store rivits might fit.

  5. #25

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    Jim,
    thanks for the reference to ACE --actually there is an ACE w/in a mile of me -will look tomorrow
    1/8 may be a liitle big -but I'll check on what they carry
    thanks
    barry

  6. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Jones

    Until researching this I never noticed those tiny split rivits. It was a cheap and easy way to make the 2D. I'll have to look over a Deardorff at the next opportunity to see how it should be done.
    Hi Jim

    Information I have on the replacement of the strap refers to the early Deardorffs using "bifurcated (split) rivets" on the nickle-plated strap loops. I don't know if this changed over time or not but apparently they were used on the ealry ones because of their holding ability

    I now have the strap for my 2D but am in need of the strap loops and the method of securing it all - so for me this thread is timely.

    Gord

  7. #27

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    Just replace the bellows on a Eastman No. 2 (pre 2D) in 7x11 format. While replacing the bellows I discovered that the brass bracket that functions for both the camera back to sit on and functions as a guide for tilt has work loose on one side. The screw holes are somewhat enlarged, which explains why the back did not fit snug. See photo below for the part I am talking about...anyway the screws go through the "box" that the is the back of the camera and looks like when mfg. the screws just missed going into the side of the camera, which may be why after all the years it has worked loose.

    Question: Is wood expoy a good choice here, since it will have some pressure from the camera back? Or would I be better off to drill the holes (3) out and plug with wood and epoxy?

    Thanks for the help.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC00242.JPG   DSC00240.JPG  
    Last edited by photomc; 07-07-2007 at 10:32 PM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: fingers not working
    Mike C

    Rambles

  8. #28

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    Drill it out and insert a dowel (snug fit). Glue the dowel in place and let it dry. Then drill the dowel for the screw, hole should be approximately the same size as the diameter of the screw at the bottom of the V that the threads form (slightly larger is OK, but only slightly).

  9. #29
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    I didn't read any of the replies but I repaired my, which is like yours a 2D, with small brass bolts and nuts in stead of going into a wood repair. There is enough room on the inside for the nut, just make sure that the bold is not so long that it punctures the bellows. Hobby shops have them, I keep a drawer full of small things for photo repairs and building.

    Curt
    Everytime I find a film or paper that I like, they discontinue it. - Paul Strand - Aperture monograph on Strand

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