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  1. #1

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    screw hole repair/handle 2D -Ideas/solutions needed

    I need to repair the stripped holes for the handle on my 8x10 2 D-- the need for clearance for the bellows is apparent. epoxy repair may be ok and then redrilling for the screws for the leather handle,but not sure how secure. I know not to pick up the camera solely by the handle -but wonder what other techniques might work -ie: small hex head on the bellows side with nut on the handle side? not an authentic look but ....
    . actually someone had tried to repair w/ brass screws from the top and bending the tail portion to keep it from pulling thru but it left a sharp edge towards the bellows -that I'm not comfortable with. I've used epoxy wood repair for yrs on restoration projects but think it will eventually fail -just looking for other ideas --thanks barry

  2. #2
    David H. Bebbington's Avatar
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    Devotees of crudity such as myself would simply superglue shavings from a matchstick (or piece of hardwood) into any hole which is too large, allow these to dry and replace the original screws!

    Regards,

    David

  3. #3

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    david ,
    A good thought --- I use that for my woodturnings -CA glue has saved my bacon numerous times -that might be a good solution .. but it is original finish and CA plays havoc on finishes . I was thinking a metal shim or ? to provide more of a resistance to tear out potential --(that standard or frame is 6mm thick)-maybe the shavings /CA would suffice . lets see what the brain trust here comes up with . I thank you for your reply -and it's great to know that CA works on all continents . :-)
    barry

  4. #4

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    David,
    I should add a little more expalnation re: "plays havoc on finishes" -I use an accelerator spray to the CA glue and in hind sight -that is what is more detrimental to the finish . a light use of CA and it might be a go --but it's hard for me to control CA -it just wants to spread . thats why I spray it -to stop it's spread . any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated -wishing you a grand weekend
    barry

  5. #5

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    Is there sufficient clearance on the inside for a small hex nut? I'd think a machine screw and nut would be preferable for security, than a wood screw and epoxy, or CA, since the interior of the existing hole doesn't leave much for the glue to bond to. Seems like even though the shavings fill the space, you are still depending on the glue to hold everything to the camera body. In other applications, I agree that CA and wood-dust is great for turnings, and I have used the matchstick method many times as well. But for something that must resist a pulling load, I'm not so sure.

  6. #6

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    Use the thicker gap filling CA gel!

    It will be hard to beat a good wood glue and hardwood packed into the hole, then put the screw back in and let the glue harden. If the screw was clean, it will provide addition holding power because the glue will hold onto the screw. Just don't pack too much wood or you may cause it to split when you put the screw back in.

    You could drill it out, and insert a hardwood dowel with glue. When the glue is hard, drill for the screw and go.

    Drill it out and put in a "T" nut from the back side, then use machine screws to screw it together. If you did this for all the fasteners on that side it could look completely normal.

    And lastly, machine the whole assembly out of some kind of metal and forget about it being wood. Drill and tap where needed. Alternate would be the machine a large metal plate that attaches the the wood.

    All in all, if the T nuts will fit, it gives a replaceable solution. Strip the fastener, just replace the T nut and screw. Check http://www.microfasteners.com for screws and T nuts, if not there then http://www.smallparts.com or Mcmaster Carr might have them in the size you need. You could also machine the T nuts with a lathe and metal stock and drill and tap.

  7. #7

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  8. #8

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    greetings bdial,
    it looks like a mm or so for clearance as the bellows folds shut -I may be able to use a small hex nut and dremel it almost flush and CA glue the hex head to the screw . good thought .I also thought about grinding a machine screw head as thin as possible and mounting the nut on the tang for the leather strap. thanks for your thoughts .
    I'm sure that most that have a 8x10 2d don't rely on the leather handle -for more than stabilization -- not for total lifting .
    thanks barry

  9. #9
    Jim Jones's Avatar
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    The split rivits that hold the handle on my 8x10 2D are still good. If I ever have to replace them, it might be easiest to use T-nuts as Greg suggests, and epoxy them in place. Rather than use eight tiny T-nuts to replace the eight split rivits, I might form a strap holder out of strip brass and use only one T-nut and screw in each end of each holder. Most hardware stores should have a variety of strip brass and T-nuts. A more elegant solution would be to drill and tap four holes in each of two plates that match the holes in the strap holders. This is the least invasive fix, and except for screw heads instead of rivit heads, would look almost authentic.

    Until researching this I never noticed those tiny split rivits. It was a cheap and easy way to make the 2D. I'll have to look over a Deardorff at the next opportunity to see how it should be done.

  10. #10

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    What about tooth picks and carpenters glue.

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