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  1. #1
    Mark Fisher's Avatar
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    Need advice designing a back for a Kodak 2D

    Well, I got a good deal on a 2D, but it does not have the frame or springs for the back (the base part of the back is there). I am comfortable making the frame to the correct dimensions as I just did that for a home made 8x10 box camera so I really only need help on the spring/bail mechanism. I was thinking of just making a simple spring back similar to my Tachihara. Can someone out there measure the thickness of the springs on their 8x10 back? I suspect that it needs to be 25% thicker than my Tachi, but I'd rather not have to do it twice (-:
    I am also thinking of inlaying the ground glass frame with some UHMW strips to make insertion of the holder easier. Has anyone out there tried that?
    Lastly, I am also considering making a bail back, but I don't have any idea how other cameras do this. I could design it from scratch, but I suspect someone out there already have a good solution.

    Thanks for your help -- Mark

  2. #2

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    Before you go to that much trouble, you might check to see what the availability of used backs is in that size. I have the 5x7 2D and Burke & James backs fit perfect - well, once you've repositioned the mounting pins anyway - and they're reasonably inexpensive. It is likely that a B&J back will fit your 8x10 as well.
    The gray paint isn't a thing of beauty, but it's pretty easy to strip, stain, and give it a shot of clear varnish to pretty it up a bit.
    Nathan

  3. #3
    Mark Fisher's Avatar
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    You are probably right, but I think I should be able to complete it in a couple of evenings and I already have a ground glass from another project so I'd prefer to give it a go myself. For me, that would be easier than locating, stripping, and finishing a B&J back....but then on the other hand I have access to all the machining equipment I could want. Now, if I could get just the metal hardware, that might be worth considering. Anyone out there have some 8x10 back hardware languishing in a box somewhere (-:

  4. #4

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    Hi Mark,

    The thickness of the springs on my 8 x 10 2D are .043" and there are two thickness of them on each side of the camera back - the total thickness is about .086". They are screwed to the back frame only in the center with two screws at 1 3/8" apart.

    FYI - if you go to Lowes and get a brass door kick plate (the piece I got is 6" x 34" and the manufacturer is Brainerd Mfg.), the thickness if that brass is .035. I was planning to try three thicknesses on my new 8 x 20, but haven't gotten that far along to have made and tried out the springs.

  5. #5
    Jim Jones's Avatar
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    Consider designing a back that uses piano wire instead of flat springs. Two straight pieces of wire can be clamped in the middle and blocked at the ends to keep the ground glass frame properly positioned. Here is a remotely similar back: pinhole camera back. Another view .

  6. #6
    Mark Fisher's Avatar
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    I am leaning toward a solution using stainless piano wire mostly because I can get it easily. I've had a hard time locating a corrosion resistant, high strength material (stainless, berylium copper, naval brass) at a reasonable price so wire it is. I think I'll prototype a few different approaches before I settle on one. I really like your approach for the pinhole application, though. Very outside the box thinking (-: ......sorry



 

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