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  1. #11
    Joe VanCleave's Avatar
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    You could also consider lining the inside of the box with black adhesive craft felt, available at hobby stores like Hobby Lobby in the States. I've found this works better than flat black paint at absorbing stray light, and there's no waiting time for drying. My experience is that with the inside surfaces of the camera lined with black felt, there's little need for baffles.

  2. #12

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    I would think that the trapping of the light would not so much be determined by the len's angle of view. Rather I believe the need for baffling would be dependent upon the size of the image circle relative to the size of the negative. For example if the lens chosen at the apertures used just barely covered the negative the problem of light bouncing around would be much reduced compared to, say, using a lens that will cover more than 8x10 at any aperture on a 4x5 camera that was of mimimal size.

    You can also probably accomplish much by using a adjustable lens shade that cuts off extraneous light before it enters the camera.
    Claire (Ms Anne Thrope is in the darkroom)

  3. #13

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    Does this help?

    The tail board is not necessary (and makes it really difficult to carry)

    Just slide the inner box out to focus using a ground glass; keeping the inner box parallel to the outer box.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails camera_3.jpg  

  4. #14
    Helen B's Avatar
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    If you decide to add baffles then the requirement is that the baffles should not obscure the exit pupil of the lens when viewed from anywhere within the area of the film. If you pointed the lens at a white surface with the aperture wide open (or at the maximum aperture that you are likely to use) you could play around with pieces of card to determine where the edges of the baffles should be. At no time should a baffle obscure your view of the exit pupil when your line of sight is within the area of the film.

    I hope that makes sense.

    Best,
    Helen

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