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  1. #11
    Whiteymorange's Avatar
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    Old fashioned bit brace and an adjustable auger bit, sharpened each time with a few strokes of an oil stone. I cut into the board from one side, flip the board and finish from the other.

    Quiet, simple and as accurate as you need it to be.

  2. #12
    PhotoPete's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteymorange View Post
    Old fashioned bit brace and an adjustable auger bit, sharpened each time with a few strokes of an oil stone. I cut into the board from one side, flip the board and finish from the other.

    Quiet, simple and as accurate as you need it to be.
    Do you make those by gaslight, Whitey?


  3. #13
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    Chris, I use a router mounted in a router table. Cheap craftsman. I use a carbide straight edged bit about 3/4" wide. I plunge the wood through to start, then I just freehand it until I get to my circle I've drawn. For lenses that need a jambnut I lower the bit and make a relief wider than my main cut for the jambnut to fall into. So far I still have all my digits, but I'll admit the way I do it is dangerous. Very fast though. And easy. Let's see, 1.2.3.4.5.6.7.8.9.10, yep they're still all here.
    He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep..to gain that which he cannot lose. Jim Elliot, 1949

    http://tonopahpictures.0catch.com

  4. #14
    noseoil's Avatar
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    Copal 0 is the same size as a hole cutter for european type cabinet door hinges. Use a drill press.

  5. #15
    reellis67's Avatar
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    Something to keep in mind also is that as long as your hole is not so large the locking nut can't put even pressure on the board you should be fine. I'm not one to advocate the "just good enough" method, but this isn't rocket science either. A hole that is not truely round will work just fine, as I said above, as long as the nut is not unsupported anywhere.

    Those fly cutters scare the hell out of me. I've used them before, and they do a good job, but the idea that that little piece of metal is only held tight by a small set screw bothers me. Jim's method works great if you have a plunge router, or if you do like I sometimes do, drill a started hole and put the bit in that so you start off with the router base flush to the surface. That's actually how I was planning to make the boards I need to make since my paddle bit seems to have gone missing.

    - Randy
    Last edited by reellis67; 12-13-2006 at 11:18 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  6. #16
    Steve Smith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by noseoil View Post
    Copal 0 is the same size as a hole cutter for european type cabinet door hinges. Use a drill press.
    There are two 'European' hinge sizes, 26mm and 35mm.

    There are some good ideas here: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Dril...ks/d110/sd1400

    Including stepped cone bits and a hole cutter with a protective cover.


    Steve.
    Last edited by Steve Smith; 12-13-2006 at 12:34 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    "People who say things won't work are a dime a dozen. People who figure out how to make things work are worth a fortune" - Dave Rat.

  7. #17

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    This is an unusual way to do it but for super speed I mount the board on my lathe and bore the hole with a finger nail gouge. You can also use a drill bit mounted in the tail stock but this is much slower. I have a 4 jaw chuck with custom clamps that can accept the boards and centers automatically. This set up was made to hold larger bowls for reverse turning the bases. I can also do a recessed lip very easily to hold a copal shutter to a thicker wood board. This is not your average way to go but its one that hasnít been mentioned.

  8. #18
    John Bartley's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harrigan View Post
    ..... I mount the board on my lathe ..... This is not your average way to go but its one that hasnít been mentioned.
    All right !! I finally have a reason buy a wood lathe - not a "great" reason, but it's a start

  9. #19
    Curt's Avatar
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    Chris, I use a router mounted in a router table. Cheap craftsman. I use a carbide straight edged bit about 3/4" wide. I plunge the wood through to start, then I just freehand it until I get to my circle I've drawn. For lenses that need a jambnut I lower the bit and make a relief wider than my main cut for the jambnut to fall into. So far I still have all my digits, but I'll admit the way I do it is dangerous. Very fast though. And easy. Let's see, 1.2.3.4.5.6.7.8.9.10, yep they're still all here.

    I was going to mention it but Jim put it out there first. I have used a router with a template to make a hole for a lens board. You can get fine results and any size you want. Guide bushings fit on routers to make perfect circles. Just some extra thoughts. How about a shutter made with magnets and adjustable?

    Curt

  10. #20
    Robert Hall's Avatar
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    I would suggest looking for a Forsner bit. They are really the only thing that will cut a clean hole without worry about what may happen to the other side of the board.

    They are not terribly expensive and one can find them in many sizes to match the shutter.

    Check out a place like www.rockler.com for such bits.
    Robert Hall
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    Technology is not a panacea. It alone will not move your art forward. Only through developing your own aesthetic - free from the tools that create it - can you find new dimension to your work.

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