Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 68,677   Posts: 1,481,968   Online: 924
      
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 19 of 19
  1. #11
    barryjyoung's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Near Seattle WA, USA
    Shooter
    ULarge Format
    Posts
    411
    Images
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by John Koehrer View Post
    Barry,
    They're not available new any longer & I've been looking for a replacement. Dremel doesn't support It & gave me a 1/4" X 10 1/2" size. Projector recorder belt corp didn't have it. Do you have any suggestions?

    Hi John:

    I am assuming you are talking about the belt? I replaced the goofy flat belt pulleys on mine with toothed timing belt pulleys and used a timing belt for years which never was able to slip. You can get timing belts and pulleys from:

    http://www.robotmarketplace.com/marketplace_timing.html

    They are cheap and they work great!
    Barry Young
    Young Camera Company

  2. #12
    barryjyoung's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Near Seattle WA, USA
    Shooter
    ULarge Format
    Posts
    411
    Images
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Fisher View Post
    If you do get a "standard" table saw, spend the time to properly tune it to get the fence parallel to the blade. I had to actually remachine the casting on my table saw (Taiwanese Powermatic) to get it tuned properly, but now it works perfectly. The other item to consider is the blade. The best I've seen is the Forrest blade....it is not cheap, but it is the best. I'd take a cheap, well tuned saw with a good blade ahead of a good, poorly tuned saw with the stock blade any time.

    All table saws need to be tuned, as Marks story of a top of the line Powermatic saw shows. My 500 pound cabinetmakers saw also required some tuning to get it close to perfect. The Forrest Woodworker II blade is good. I recommend an Amana or SystiMatic blade, but for a blade that costs less than $200 the Forrest is probably the best available.
    Barry Young
    Young Camera Company

  3. #13

    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Portland Oregon
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    137
    Images
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by barryjyoung View Post
    All table saws need to be tuned, as Marks story of a top of the line Powermatic saw shows. My 500 pound cabinetmakers saw also required some tuning to get it close to perfect. The Forrest Woodworker II blade is good. I recommend an Amana or SystiMatic blade, but for a blade that costs less than $200 the Forrest is probably the best available.
    Just remember there are cheaper blades that are just as good, you will have to find them, and also it depends on the size of your saw ( some older hobbie saws took 7 1/2 inch saw blades but the standard table saw usually takes 10 inch blades, cabinet makers and construction saw can be found in 12 inch and larger ). I had one off my saw blades sharpened and now it's better that it was new.
    It's not the camera......

  4. #14
    barryjyoung's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Near Seattle WA, USA
    Shooter
    ULarge Format
    Posts
    411
    Images
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by freygr View Post
    Just remember there are cheaper blades that are just as good, you will have to find them, and also it depends on the size of your saw ( some older hobbie saws took 7 1/2 inch saw blades but the standard table saw usually takes 10 inch blades, cabinet makers and construction saw can be found in 12 inch and larger ). I had one off my saw blades sharpened and now it's better that it was new.
    Awesome! What blades are cheaper that work "just as good"? Please tell us what to look for.

    Most older table saws were 8 inch not 7 1/4. 7 1/4 is a portable hand held circular saw size not a table saw size. Nobody makes 7 1/2 inch blades as far as I know.
    Barry Young
    Young Camera Company

  5. #15

    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Portland Oregon
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    137
    Images
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by barryjyoung View Post
    Awesome! What blades are cheaper that work "just as good"? Please tell us what to look for.

    Most older table saws were 8 inch not 7 1/4. 7 1/4 is a portable hand held circular saw size not a table saw size. Nobody makes 7 1/2 inch blades as far as I know.
    It was late at night and I did mean 7 1/4 saw blade. Unluckily for users of blades larger than 10 inches there is not much of choice. But for the users of saws that use 10 inch blades we do have some great and not so costly choices.

    After years of wood working (hobby) I've have these few facts. If the saw blade does not sing, that is run smoothly with out any side to side movement (no vibrations and no run out), you have a junk blade return it if it's new. You will get a smoother cut with more teeth but there is a point of diminishing returns (depth of cut and if it is a rip). Also use thin Kerf saw blades it does make a difference in waste if you going to cut many small parts out of a large piece of wood. Another benefit is that it takes less power to make the cut.

    I have three Ridgid 10" saw blades (2 - 50 tooth combination and 90 tooth combination) and one Hitachi 40 tooth combination. Both brands are laser cut and just sing (no vibration just the sound of the teeth cutting the air is all you heard) All cut the wood smooth. I have the 90 tooth on the compound miter saw and the cuts are glass smooth. The Ridgid cost me about $70.00 USA for the 90 tooth and the 50 tooth's where in the $50.00 range, the Hitachi was the cheapest at $32.00. I have two DEWALT saw blades, they are on my junk blade pile, they do make nice tools but not nice saw blades (too much run out) OK for framing not good for cabinet making.

    I have about a dozen other saw blades but most of them I got when I got the saw. Most will just sit there not being used as they are not carbide blades. But the carbide blades that are there do not sing, and they also don't cut smooth either. I use them if I have to cut metals or junk wood that may have steel in it (nails or screws).
    It's not the camera......

  6. #16
    barryjyoung's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Near Seattle WA, USA
    Shooter
    ULarge Format
    Posts
    411
    Images
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by freygr View Post
    It was late at night and I did mean 7 1/4 saw blade. Unluckily for users of blades larger than 10 inches there is not much of choice. But for the users of saws that use 10 inch blades we do have some great and not so costly choices.

    After years of wood working (hobby) I've have these few facts. If the saw blade does not sing, that is run smoothly with out any side to side movement (no vibrations and no run out), you have a junk blade return it if it's new. You will get a smoother cut with more teeth but there is a point of diminishing returns (depth of cut and if it is a rip). Also use thin Kerf saw blades it does make a difference in waste if you going to cut many small parts out of a large piece of wood. Another benefit is that it takes less power to make the cut.

    I have three Ridgid 10" saw blades (2 - 50 tooth combination and 90 tooth combination) and one Hitachi 40 tooth combination. Both brands are laser cut and just sing (no vibration just the sound of the teeth cutting the air is all you heard) All cut the wood smooth. I have the 90 tooth on the compound miter saw and the cuts are glass smooth. The Ridgid cost me about $70.00 USA for the 90 tooth and the 50 tooth's where in the $50.00 range, the Hitachi was the cheapest at $32.00. I have two DEWALT saw blades, they are on my junk blade pile, they do make nice tools but not nice saw blades (too much run out) OK for framing not good for cabinet making.

    I have about a dozen other saw blades but most of them I got when I got the saw. Most will just sit there not being used as they are not carbide blades. But the carbide blades that are there do not sing, and they also don't cut smooth either. I use them if I have to cut metals or junk wood that may have steel in it (nails or screws).
    Hi:

    Yeah, we tried Rigid blades, and Freud. The Forrest, SystiMatic and Amana are much better. Thank you though.
    Barry Young
    Young Camera Company

  7. #17

    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Portland Oregon
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    137
    Images
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by barryjyoung View Post
    Hi:

    Yeah, we tried Rigid blades, and Freud. The Forrest, SystiMatic and Amana are much better. Thank you though.
    There are a few other things about saw blades, use. Granted some blades don't last as long, but the requirement between a hobby use and a production shop are very different. In a production shop you need long lasting blades. I know of very few light users of table saws which would be able to justify a $300 saw blade.

    Like I have two Rigid saw blades, one is better that the other when both were new. For light users the less costly blades can preform for months like the $300 saw blade do to the fact of the amount of use. Most users (non-production) will not see the difference. for a very long time.
    It's not the camera......

  8. #18

    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    1
    Steve.

    Well I have had lots of experience with Microlux table saws, Dremel table saws and saws in general. Let me start by saying the Dremel is at the bottom of the food chain.
    It uses a stamped tin trunion unit (the part that controls the tilt and the up/down blade movement). These units are still available used on EBay for $50-$250. If you find a used one be ready to spend a lot of time making it worth your investment.

    Now, the Microlux. The two that I have owned have served me well. But be prepared to spend $400 for a new one and whatever the market will bear for a used one. Watch out for the used ones because the variable speed control is light dut[B]y and is known to burn out. I have one right now with a smoked motor. This is a $100 small DC motor if you get lucky enough to find a new one.

    Last but not least. Go onto Craigslist.org and look for a VERY OLD Sears cast iron table saw. I am talking the type form 40-50 yeas ago. They in fact are not a lot larger than a modlers saw but built like a tank. I just picked one up for $40 and it has a cast iron table about 12" by 17". This is a belt drive unit and this one had a nice ball bearing 1/2 HP motor on it.

    Almost everyone on the post is right, you MUST align the blade to the table fist, The nice part about the old Sears table saw is the rear of the trunion unit is pinned (not movable) and the front portion is adjustable via 2 bolts. This allows you to make the table top perfectly parrellel with the saw blade. After this is done you can tinker with the table stops. Meaning the stop adjustment for a perfect 90 degree and at the far end the stop for a perfect 45 degree.

    I hope all of this helps you make an informed decision. I find the $40 Sears saw a much better performer and more accurate than any modelers saw. Blades are available and this particular saw uses a standard 7 1/2" blade. This type blade is available from the bottom of the line Lowes and Home Depot specials all the way up to the Forest line.

  9. #19

    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Massachusetts, USA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    350
    Thanks for resurrecting this thread, and for the tip on old Craftsman saws. I'll have a look around for one of those.

    I did ultimately find a good-condition Dremel for cheap, with all the bits and pieces. After a little alignment, which wasn't too difficult and appears to be stable, it has met my limited needs so far, but it's clear that I'll need something better for a planned project.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin