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  1. #101

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    Quote Originally Posted by mhcfires View Post
    At the rate things are going, I'll have to wait til after the first of the year before I can afford to go after a Panoram. There is one available on ebay right now for $300, it is supposedly in good condition. I dunno.
    The Panorams have been appearing on FleaBay quite freuently of late, and it appears to be a pretty good buyers market. What is especially nice about that is that many of the ones being offered are the No. 1 Panorams, which can use readily available 120 film.

    Of the 5 that were on there the last time I checked, 3 of them were the No. 1 types! One guy wanted $250 for his, but with the way prices seem to be dropping as more & more come on the market, he my be lucky to get $150, but one never knows as the collectors might jump in and that could put a prop under the prices.

    Anyhoo, keep an eye on the sales, and you might pick up one at a very nice price.

    EuGene

  2. #102

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    I went to the camera show today and ended up buying a Panoram Number 4 Model D. It looked real nice but it had "issues". I fiddled with it for about an hour but I did not get it to work correctly. Looks like I will be tearing into this one after I get the Number 1 fixed. Another winter project.
    "There are two ways to avoid most trouble in life: live below your means... and within your seams."

  3. #103

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    Frank, did you get the early Model D or the later one with the ratchet gears on the bottom of the swing lens shaft?

    My 1D has those gears and I would like to hear ideas on working on them from anyone who has any experience with them. I have thought about getting a ratchet geared 4D for practice, as they are bigger and easier to work on (my current "practice" Panoram is a 4C) than a No. 1.

    EuGene

  4. #104

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    Quote Originally Posted by B&Jdude View Post
    Frank, did you get the early Model D or the later one with the ratchet gears on the bottom of the swing lens shaft?
    EuGene
    Just the plain old Model D, no ratchet gears.

    I had to put the camera down after fiddling with it awhile. I am in my last term in grad school and I have to get back to my studies; I will be able to devote more time to these activities after Christmas.

    Thanks for the booklet, that was very nice of you!
    "There are two ways to avoid most trouble in life: live below your means... and within your seams."

  5. #105

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    Frank: Happy to be of help with that booklet.

    Here's a bit of info on the Panorams that is nice to know stuff.

    The Panorams, in the order they were first introduced:


    No. 4 (142 degree swing)

    1899 - 1900 Original model (no letter), no door on the front, Rapid rectilinear lens
    1900 - 1903 Model B, added lens door and brilliant finder, switched to meniscus lens
    1903 - 1907 Model C, some later ones had 2 levels for horizontal & vertical operation
    1907 - 1917 Model D, 1st version, no level in 1907, single level after that
    1917 - 1924 Model D, 2nd version, ratchet/gear speed control

    No. 1 (112 degree swing)

    1900 - 1901 Original model (no letter), it had a lens door, rapid rectilinear lens
    1901 - 1903 Model B, switched to meniscus lens
    1903 - 1907 Model C, some with 2 levels
    1907 - 1917 Model D, 1st version
    1917 - 1924 Model D, 2nd version, ratchet/gear speed control

    No. 3A (120 degree swing)

    1926 - 1928 only one model, 2 speed selector separate from cocking lever, 2 shutter releases, "T" level

    Some of the Panorams were special ordered with a Goerz early Dagor lens.

    As I get more information on differences/changes between the various models I will pass it along.

    EuGene
    Last edited by B&Jdude; 10-26-2008 at 11:40 PM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: left off important lens info

  6. #106

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    By the way, the front door, winder, and some other parts were held in place by nickel plated brass screws with the slotted oval head (lower profile than the more common round head type), size #0 x 5/16.

    MicroFasteners doesn't have them - if you find a source let us know.

    The bulls-eye level on page 2240 of the McMaster-Carr on-line catalogue is the exact same size and style on the top, but the bottom part that fits into the hole in the camera is about 2mm deeper than the original. The hole would have to be VERY CAREFULLY bored a bit deeper to allow the level to seat flush with the camera body. Once in place, the only way to tell them apart is that the original was nickel plated whereas the new ones are chrome, and the original background below the bubble was red and the new ones have a white background. EuGene

  7. #107

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    Oval head wood screws are basically a flat head screw which has a rounded head, see link: http://www.mcmaster.com/ and look at catalog page 2970. So you can safely sub plain old flat head screws. But unluckily 1/16 length steps in screw are no longer available, so we are stuck with 1/4 inch or 3/8 inch lengths, or if you can find 8 mm long metric wood screws and hope the thread diameter is the same as size 0?
    It's not the camera......

  8. #108

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    Well, freygr, I might well be wrong here, but I think the shaft diameter of a #0 wood screw is 0.060" (approx. 1.52mm) and the nearest Metric equivalent might be a M1.6. That is, if I understand correctly, that the number after the M is the shaft diameter in mm.

    Maybe I should send one of these Panoram screws over to my friend in Zurich and have him check local hobby shops to see what they might have in screws that could substitute.

    EuGene

  9. #109

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    Aha, success! My Swiss frien clued me into a German company that is on FleaBay as schraubendepot (roughly translated as "screw store"). Among the screws that they sell are brass oval head miniature wood screws, and one size will work for us, the M1.6x8. The measurements for this screw are 1.6 mm in diameter and 8 mm in length . . . almost exactly the same as our #0x5/16, which in metric measures to 1.5 mm in diameter by 7.9 mm in length. Plenty close enough.

    Since Kodak used nickel plates screws, I will have to dig out my little Plug n' Plate kit and plate at least the head of the brass screws. You can Google the Plug n' Plate kit to find them, or do a search on FleaBay, as they are sold there. They work nicely, too, as I have plated a number of clarinet keys (often made of nickel plated brass) with my kit.

    Anyone have good info on procedure to open the usually dried-up bubble levels and refill them? Ed Romney touched on it in his antique camera repair manual, but didn't describe the procedure. Don't wan to break one by not doing that repair correctly.

    EuGene

  10. #110

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    I see #4 Panorams selling for over $100. I had assumed they are shelf queens only, but at that price I wonder if users are competing for them? If so, what are they using for film?

    Thanks,
    Jon



 

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