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  1. #131

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    they are much harder to find than a panoram, but the baby al vista takes 120, and can be a good easy user
    http://jamieyoungphoto.com/alvista%20baby%201.html

  2. #132
    mhcfires's Avatar
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    They are few and far between, but most baby al-vistas are basket cases. I have seen very few usable ones.
    Michael Cienfuegos


    If you don't want to stand behind our troops, please feel free to stand in front of them.

  3. #133

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    One of mine needed a new bellows, but it wasn't too hard to do. That's the biggest problem with them.

  4. #134

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    That black velvet split pigskin (Tandy #9120) is great for the bellows on any of those swing-lens cameras. It is very soft and supple and has a smooth textured leather on one side (like the outer surface of the Panoram bellows) and a flat black velvet on the other side. There are occasional pinholes from the pores or hair folicles in it, but a tiny bit of black latex paint, liquid rubber, etc. on the very tip of a round toothpick or sewing needle will permanently fix those.

  5. #135

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    Oh, about those Al Vistas. Since for about the same price I can get a good Panoram, a sturdier camera which takes pictures with the lens swinging both ways, so I don't have to cap the lens and pull it back to cock the camera.

    But, on the other hand the Baby Al Vista did offer more "shutter speeds" than the Kodak Panoram, with 4 spring tension settings on the No. 1 Baby, and even more accurate settings on the no 2 with different sizes of fan blades that used wind resistance to act as governors.

    Unfortunately, when Conley bought out Multiscope and their Al Vista cameras, they improved on the sturdiness of the camera body, but produced only cameras using the larger size film and dropped the Baby Al Vista that used 120 film.

  6. #136

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    Of those that have taken their Kodak Panoram No.1s apart and renovated/fixed them...Can any of you help me??

    I have a Panoram No.1 that swings the lens ok, but the shutter release(49) is not engaging and holding the swinging arm(45), so basically as soon as the tension in the swing mechanism is enough to get past the light baffle between the rear of the lens and the film box, it swings. The patent doesn't give any clues how the shutter arm 48 (the end of which slots into a hole 47 in the swinging arm 45 and stops it from swinging until shutter button 49 is depressed, pushing shutter arm 48 down, out of hole 47 and letting lens 45 arm swing ) is tensioned into the swinging arm hole 47. Is it just the flexibility of the metal shutter arm itself? I can move the shutter arm up and down but it never seems to home/locate into the hole in the swing arm of the lens (without taking the camera apart I can't actually see 45 where 47 is located - its all very dark in there!) The only thing I have noticed is that the shutter button 49 isn't held in the shutter arm and therefore the shutter arm has moved a few millimeters towards the the lens pivot. Could this stop it engaging in the hole in the swing arm. If i loosen the screw holding the shutter arm could I slide it back afew milimeters to this fix the problem (or is the screw held in ahole with no give/leeway)

    I can move the shutter arm 48 up and down (up is a little worrying as I would have thought it could only go up when the swing arm hole was in the correct place. Could it be the swing arm is too high for the shutter arm to engage, if so is it easy to adjust the height of the swing arm, and if so, how? The nut at the bottom of the lens pivot 26 is right at the bottom of the thread, whereas on my No.4 which works perfectly it is slightly up the thread, so if this nut lowers the swing arm that might then allow the shutter arm to engage in the hole 47? Otherwise could it be possible that the shutter arm 48 has got out of line with the line of the holes 47 (shown as line between 10 and 10 on Fig 4). I can't see how this could happen given the arm 48 is held by two screws)

    So far I haven't had to take apart the camera, and am hoping i can make these adjustments that will correct the problem without major camera surgery, just keyhole fidling and adjustment. If I can't is it easy to take apart a few panels of the camera to access the top of the swing mechanism (as shown in figs 3 and 4)

    Any help would be very gratefully recieved!.

    Regards
    Stuart
    Ive included numbers from the 693583 patent to try and help explain what I'm asking.

  7. #137

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    Stuart:

    That arm #48 could possibly be out of line because although, as you noted, it has 2 screws, only the outer screw (the right screw in Fig. 6) holds it in place. The inner screw (not numbered) shown just to the right of the U-shaped spring-latch (#61 in Fig. 6) goes through a rather large hole in the arm #48.and is there for the purpose of controlling how far the arm can be pressed downward by the shutter button #49. Because of the large hole the arm #48 could possibly swing far enough one way or the other so that the small bent-down tab on the end of arm #48 doesn't properly line up with either of the holes #47 and therefore does not hold the swinging lens in place while the shutter is being cocked.

    I have a beater 4C where the end of the arm #48 that is bent downward into a tab to engage the holes #47 but is bent from a small projection on the side of the arm so that it runs parallel to line #10 - #10 (in Fig. 4) rather than perpendicular to line #10 - #10 (as shown just above shaft #26 in Fig. 10). On my 4C that tab is worn and rounded so that it does not hold the lens even though it is properly seated in one of the holes #47. That could be your problem if the tab on arm #47 fits into the hole properly but pulls out it and releases the swing lens as soon as you start to cock the camera.

    You might be able to fix the problem easily if the arm #48 is just not lining up properly with the holes #47 . . . that you can see by using a flashlight and looking inside to see if the Arm #48 is lying flat against the D-shaped plate #31. If it is standing away from the plate #31, then the tab has not seaten in one of the holes #47. In such a case, you might use a small dental probe to move the arm toward the front and rear of the camera to see if the tab drops into a hole #47 and the arm flattens against the plate #31.

    If the arm #47 is flat against plate #31, indicating that the tab is seated in one of the holes #47, but will not hold the lens in place while cocking the camera, then either the tab or hole #47 (or both) is worn and rounded allowing the tab to slip out of the hole when any cocking tension is applied. In such a case you would have to disassemble the camera and file the tab and or holes to remove the rounded surface if only a small amout of filing is needed. If badly worn, you might even need to grind off the old worn tab, superglue or epoxy a small flat piece of metal to the end of the arm #48, bend it down, and with a Dremel Tool grind and shape a new tab. A pain in the but to do, but not too difficult a job . . . it is what I will need to do to my 4C.

    I know this is a rather long message, but hope it is of some help to you.

    EuGene

  8. #138

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    Can someone with a panoram #1, measure the radius of the film plane and PM me...
    * Just because your eyes are closed, doesn't mean the lights in the darkroom are off. *
    * When the film you put in the camera is worth more than the camera you put the film in... *
    * When I started using 8x10, it amazed me how many shots were close to the car. *

  9. #139

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    Jeff, from the centre of the lens axis to the film plane is 91.5mm or 3 9/16 inches. I thought I'd post this publicly so if anyone disagrees they can post their measurements and we can find a common consensus.

  10. #140

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    Quote Originally Posted by fo55ilboy View Post
    Jeff, from the centre of the lens axis to the film plane is 91.5mm or 3 9/16 inches. I thought I'd post this publicly so if anyone disagrees they can post their measurements and we can find a common consensus.
    Ok and this was on a #1 panoram?... I had eyeballed it at a bit less than that maybe 3 3/8 at one point, but I don't have one to measure right now. I have to turn a new one on my lathe and can only handle a 7 inch diameter---doh... so I think the one I am fixing might end up being a one of a kind LOL. I may have to bring in the film plane a bit.
    * Just because your eyes are closed, doesn't mean the lights in the darkroom are off. *
    * When the film you put in the camera is worth more than the camera you put the film in... *
    * When I started using 8x10, it amazed me how many shots were close to the car. *



 

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