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  1. #71

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    By the way, I bought a piece of that Tandy Velvet Pigskin Suede Black (#9120-01), and that stuff is great! It is super flexible and soft with an occasional big hole (about 1 or 2 mm, apparently mostly from scratches and wounds) and numerous very tiny holes scattered about . . . they are real small, about the size of a needle point, but not as large as the needle body. They should be very easy to seal.

    I got a small size skin, about 10 1/2 sq ft, and by cutting out bellows-size pieces while avoiding the occasional big holes (except where one falls where the lens hole will be cut), I should be able to get a dozen or so bellows leathers out of this skin.

    Also, maybe as an overkill, I ordered a piece of the focal plane shutter cloth from Micro-Tools. I might put a piece of it on the inside, behind the suede pigskin bellows, for a double light seal.

    I don't mind playing around and trying different things, and I will certainly experiment with the bellows replacement.

    A couple other things need to be addressed that we haven't mentioned yet. First, (maybe because of shrinkage of the wood over the years) the Panorams seem to commonly have a problem of focusing beyond infinity. Since the swing lens and its shaft don't lend themselves to being moved, one would most likely need to correct this condition by shimming the curved film track. I dont know how one would test the focus . . . maybe put a strip of wax paper on the film track and get under a dark cloth?? I guess I need some sort of flexible "ground glass".

    The second problem that I hear about, but haven't a clue how to deal with it, regards the lens swiveling on its "Nodal Point". I suppose someone who knows a lot more about optics than I needs to address that one.

    EuGene

  2. #72

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    Quote Originally Posted by B&Jdude View Post
    By the way, I bought a piece of that Tandy Velvet Pigskin Suede Black (#9120-01), and that stuff is great! It is super flexible and soft with an occasional big hole (about 1 or 2 mm, apparently mostly from scratches and wounds) and numerous very tiny holes scattered about . . . they are real small, about the size of a needle point, but not as large as the needle body. They should be very easy to seal.

    I got a small size skin, about 10 1/2 sq ft, and by cutting out bellows-size pieces while avoiding the occasional big holes (except where one falls where the lens hole will be cut), I should be able to get a dozen or so bellows leathers out of this skin.

    Also, maybe as an overkill, I ordered a piece of the focal plane shutter cloth from Micro-Tools. I might put a piece of it on the inside, behind the suede pigskin bellows, for a double light seal.

    I don't mind playing around and trying different things, and I will certainly experiment with the bellows replacement.

    A couple other things need to be addressed that we haven't mentioned yet. First, (maybe because of shrinkage of the wood over the years) the Panorams seem to commonly have a problem of focusing beyond infinity. Since the swing lens and its shaft don't lend themselves to being moved, one would most likely need to correct this condition by shimming the curved film track. I dont know how one would test the focus . . . maybe put a strip of wax paper on the film track and get under a dark cloth?? I guess I need some sort of flexible "ground glass".

    The second problem that I hear about, but haven't a clue how to deal with it, regards the lens swiveling on its "Nodal Point". I suppose someone who knows a lot more about optics than I needs to address that one.

    EuGene
    1) the focus set, you have to be careful as I'm guesting that the lens is set in the hypofocal curve, were for example 10' to infinity is in focus. I would not shim the film plain but pull shims under the lens mount. Shim materials can be order in sheet form from to places: McMaster-Carr or MSC Industrial Supply Co. links: http://www.mcmaster.com/ , https://www1.mscdirect.com/

    2) Unless you have a lot of stuff in the foreground very close in, as the nodal point of the lens is very close to the pivot point you will not see much if not any parallax error in the photos. (I do allot of panoramas using a digital cameras, and most are hand held) Unless a single mucus lens is used the nodal point of the lenses will be close to the aperture.
    It's not the camera......

  3. #73

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    Thanks, Gordon. I won't even ruffle my bangs any more over nodal point issues - more like non-issues - but I will see if I can figure out how to check the focus on the lens. I'll leave all nodal point fixes to Ken Ruth, as he routinely does that sort of stuff to Panarams (and I suppose that shop up in NYC does, too). I don't understand what the nodal point of a lens is anyhoo.

    Now, what would be a good flexible stuff to use as a "ground glass" on the curved film plane to check to see if it is properly focused. Since it is my understanding that Panoram lens is about an f11 or f16, will one be able to see the GG image well enough to check the focus . . . no doubt a dark cloth will be needed in any case. Next, I gotta figure out how to get the lens out of the tube. I removed the hood from the front, and see that it seems to clamp the lens in place, as the lens flopped around loose in the tube when I unscrewed the hood. However, I could not get the lens to come out of the tube from the front, so I will try removing the "cone" and see if it comes out from the rear.

    I'm not familiar with MSC Industrial Supply Co., so I'll check them out tomorrow. Now, on the other hand, I do know good old McMaster-Carr; they seem to sell every type of hardware known to man, so I consider them my buddies . . . a DIYer's toy store! I think I mentioned early in this thread that they have the same level as used on the Panorams ----> go to page 2240. There the little sucker is, for $12.50. (oh well, it's in chrome rather than nickel)

    I also need to get some new screws to replace the 10 that hold the front metal plate on the camera. Mine are badly rusted and some have even become very thin with no threads left on them. I would like to replace them, preferably with stainless steel (though I'll take what I can get), but I am not knowledgeable about how different screws are identified. What would be the correct type and size that I should ask for to order those screws?

    It seems that I just keep coming up with more questions, so I don't know if I am making progress or just getting thoroughly confused. Thank God I am not trying to work on something complicated, like a SLR.

    EuGene
    Last edited by B&Jdude; 10-05-2008 at 11:32 PM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: lousy spelling and wording

  4. #74

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    Quote Originally Posted by B&Jdude View Post
    I also need to get some new screws to replace the 10 that hold the front metal plate on the camera. Mine are badly rusted and some have even become very thin with no threads left on them. I would like to replace them, preferably with stainless steel (though I'll take what I can get), but I am not knowledgeable about how different screws are identified. What would be the correct type and size that I should ask for to order those screws?
    EuGene
    http://www.apug.org/forums/forum147/...ews-nails.html
    "There are two ways to avoid most trouble in life: live below your means... and within your seams."

  5. #75

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    Thanks, Frank. I found the little beasties at the www.microfasteners.com address that I found when I followed your link. I measured several of my screws that were in the better condition and they seemed to fit the #0 x 1/4" size countersunk slotted screws that company sold.

  6. #76
    richard ide's Avatar
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    You might try matte surface polyester drawing film as a flexible 'ground glass' material. An art store should have it .
    Richard

    Why are there no speaker jacks on a stereo camera?

  7. #77

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    Thanks Richard, I am not familiar with that drawing film, but I'll check our little local art & frame shop. If they don't stock it, they can surely order it.

    "Why are there no speaker jacks on a stereo camera?" Well, most likely they are made to be used with ear buds rather than speakers!! ;o)

    Well, gang, I plan to tear the 4C down again this coming weekend, and will be doing it regularly thereafter until I can do it in my sleep. If I keep doing that then maybe someday I'll know that I have arrived when I can disassemble and reassemble it in a film changing tent!

    EuGene
    Last edited by B&Jdude; 10-06-2008 at 10:12 PM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: Added last paragraph

  8. #78
    richard ide's Avatar
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    Should have thought of it earlier but tracing paper would also work
    Richard

    Why are there no speaker jacks on a stereo camera?

  9. #79

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    Traditionally, I have used frosted scotch tape as a ground glass. Laying a few pieces across the opening for a conventional camera is no problem. The curved surface on a Panoram is a little trickier. Maybe use a very thin sheet of clear plastic and cover it with several strips of tape. Then bend it into place. The clear plastic sheet has to be thin enough so it does not affect the focal plane but stiff enough to remain taut when curved around the back. You can probably salvage a scrap from something like an envelope window (a big envelope window)
    "There are two ways to avoid most trouble in life: live below your means... and within your seams."

  10. #80

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    Frank:

    How about laying the frosted tape on the plastic strip, then curving the piece of plastic around the film track with the frosted side ot the tape facing the lens? That would put it directly on the film plane. Also, the image would be right on the frosted surface rather that coming at the frosted surface from the back side.

    EuGene

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