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  1. #11
    Jim Fitzgerald's Avatar
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    Scott, I did mine from the top. If you recess it and screw and epoxy it in the weight of the camera will pull it down and hold it tight.


    Jim

  2. #12
    Jim Noel's Avatar
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    Always from the top if possible!
    [FONT=Comic Sans MS]Films NOT Dead - Just getting fixed![/FONT]

  3. #13

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    If you insert it from the bottom it's weaker than going through the top. With the additional diameter of the flange there's no way it will pull through.
    Heavily sedated for your protection.

  4. #14
    schrochem's Avatar
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    I was able to do it from the top.
    I hope it holds.
    The hole that was there had a smaller tnut for 1/4" (that had the bottom threads all torn).
    I was able to easily remove that but making the larger hole didn't go so well.
    Because there was already a 1/2" hole there, the 1" fortsner bit was a bit tricky.
    I was able to get it down to the right depth, but cutting it smooth and flat was tricky.
    So I added extra glue...
    I'm not sure the the three screws will hold but hopefully with all the extra glue it will hold.
    The head came in yesterday, so I'll give it a try tomorrow.
    Thanks for all the help.
    Scott

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by schrochem View Post
    Thanks for the recess tip. Are y'all suggesting I still do that from the top?
    Or would the bottom be fine?
    Thanks again
    Tee Nuts need to be installed from the top or you may have the camera fall off the tripod!

    As far as the screw in inserts, I tried to use them in my camera project and they would split the wood, at least the ones I got and the other problem they would never go in true, the Tee nuts will go in true each and every time. If you don't have space you can counter bore the top with a foster bit before you drill the main hole . Note use a piece of scrap wood to set the depth of the counter bore, which should be the thickness of Tee Nut flange.
    It's not the camera......

  6. #16
    Joe VanCleave's Avatar
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    I prefer using the tee nuts that have the three bent metal prongs. I start with a small pilot hole drilled through the wood, then a Forstner bit to make the counter sink for the tee nut's flange on top; then a bit to drill out for the main shaft of the tee nut. Prior to mounting the tee nut I'll press the three prongs into the recessed flange area, and drill small pilot holes into these marks for the three prongs. If you don't, the wood may split when you try pounding the tee nut into its seated position. Finally, a bit of epoxy glue to cover the upper flange area. Depending on the application (like a tripod adapter plate for pinhole box cameras, for instance) I'll cover the top flange area with a piece of sheet cork to hide the scar. For mounting the tee nut to the bottom of a wooden box camera, a piece of opaque wood or sheet metal goes over the scar on the inside of the floor of the box, to make the area light tight.

    ~Joe

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe VanCleave View Post
    clip..... Prior to mounting the tee nut I'll press the three prongs into the recessed flange area, and drill small pilot holes into these marks for the three prongs. If you don't, the wood may split when you try pounding the tee nut into its seated position. clip.....

    ~Joe
    How true, If you are building your own use plywood and you will not have the wood splitting problem. If the camera is heavy you should use plywood were the stress could go accross the grain to keep the camera or tripod in one piece.
    It's not the camera......

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