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  1. #101
    John_Nikon_F's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
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    Duvall, WA, USA
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    Over the past couple weeks:

    • Built a frankenstein Nikkormat, using an FT body and an FT3 mirror box. Have yet to get the whole thing working, but will work on it in my spare time.
    • Combined a couple parts FTn's into one working FTn that just needs to have the wiring to the meter hooked up to get it working completely.
    • Cleaned up a Nikkormat EL that must've gone swimming, but still functioned properly.
    • Figured out why one of the FTn parts bodies wouldn't fire - had gone swimming, and the cocking lever had become disconnected from the winding mechanism. Fires once manually cocked, and the stop down mechanism is engaged. All speeds sound ok.
    • Replaced the EM/FG/FG-20 rewind knob on my FE2 with one from my old FM2n, which entailed unlatching the back, after the rewind shaft dropped into the body after closing the back. Still need to readjust the ISO dial so it isn't off a stop.

    Future projects will probably consist of locating a new top cover and baseplate for the FE2, buying a new FT2 top cover, then installing the parts on the respective bodies.
    APUG: F2AS x2, F, FM2n, Nikomat FTn, FT2
    DPUG: D200
    Nikkors: 18-70/3.5-4.5G AF-S DX (f/D200), 20/3.5 UD, 24/2.8 AI, 50/2 AI, 50/2 K, 50/1.4 AI, 55/3.5 Micro PC, 55/2.8 Micro AIS, 85/1.8 K, 105/2.5 K, 135/3.5 QC

    My FB - My flickr stream
    My SmugMug

  2. #102

    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Portland - Oregon
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    12
    I finally found an extra tail-board for my Burke & James 5x7. After stripping the old Battleship Grey and applying a nice Cherry stain that matches the camera, I am now ready to do some portraiture with the 12" lens.
    Oh ya, reworking the ground glass with #400 and then #500 silicon carbide abrasive grits makes a world of difference in the quality and brightness of the image on the GG. Beats a Fresnel lens.

    Alan

  3. #103
    studiocarter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Pittsburgh
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    92
    A Burk & James 'Grover' 8x10 monorail camera back was made to fit. The camera came with two backs and only one fit. The 5x7 adaptor back didn't go on. None of the pins would line up?! It must have come from another kit.
    All the pins were removed; it reminded me of track at Xmas train setup; the holes were filled with wood putty; after dry, they were drilled. The back was centered first, then clamped to hold it in place. A hand drill was used to carefully drill with. Base pins went in first; the clamp was moved to the top and then those holes were drilled.
    It worked!

    A completely different story concerns a Fairchild Aerial K-38 shutter with Kodak lenses - with my brother in laws help, we got it to fire. "BANG!" Using three winds, it sounds like a gun shot. I wonder exactly how fast it actually goes? That lens and shutter stands 11 1/2" tall, 5" wide in the back and 6" wide in the front, not counting the Yellow filter, the front element is a 36 inch, 918mm lens. Shutter blades and iris blades are right next to each other. The opening in the iris is 1 1/4 to 3/1/4. We didn't fit the lens, only my ignorance of how to use it has improves a little.

  4. #104
    Marc Akemann's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Ann Arbor area, Michigan
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    Replaced all the foam seals in an Olympus XA. Came out great.

    Marc

  5. #105
    sarahfoto's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Hönö, Sweden
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    My Polaroid 545 filmholder, thanks to Ian C!
    -Sarah

  6. #106
    sidearm613's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA
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    I fixed this wacky Noritsu Machine that retrieves the leader from 35mm canisters automatically. now it doesn't tear my film when it goes in to get it back.

    Oh, and I set up a bunch of stage lights a theatre, burning my had on a PAR can. Bummer
    David

    A Holga is an ugly woman, a Brownie is a delicious treat.

    dromanophoto.blogspot.com/

  7. #107

    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by darinwc View Post
    http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/pentaxmeproblems.html

    The third pic points to the wind lock lever. I used a wire bending pliers (smooth round tapered tips). one tip under the neck of both levers, the other over the nose of the black lever. Gently bend it clockwise. Too much and it will lock up on next wind.
    Thanks for the Tip; finally got around to doing this and it took all of 3 minutes. Seems to have done the job and now I will have a fully functional Super ME as soon as I buy some batteries!

  8. #108

    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    San Diego, CA
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    268
    New light seals and mirror bumper on a Canon A-1, and I un-jammed the mirror on a Minolta XE-5.

  9. #109
    Philippe-Georges's Avatar
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    Apr 2005
    Location
    Flanders Fields
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    722
    I fixed the circulation pump of my Colenta's water jacket. As the water jacket contains 90 L, and after a certain time algae are living in it, the mesh filter got saturated. I drained the jacket, dismantled the circulation system and cleaned the pump and electro magnetic valve. Then I filled the jacket again and purred in a jar of house hold 'eau de Javel' (= hypochlorite de sodium) and let it stand for a night, all the green stuff was gone. Then rinsed the jacket several times and the machine ran like new. The jacket water is used in the process as washing water.

    Philippe
    "...If you can not stand the rustle of the leafs, then do not go in to the woods..."
    (freely translated quote by Guido Gezelle)

    PS: English is only my third language, please do forgive me my sloppy grammar...

  10. #110

    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    took apart and unjammed the aperture on a no-name brand tele zoom lens for my AE-1.



 

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