A Bronica SQ film back that refused to advance film or did it only after every five shots. I never found out what was wrong but the good old take-apart-reassemble-and-hope-it-works method is unbeatable.
I fixed a few prints... But I also took apart my darkroom timer, soldered on some new spade connectors for the switch connections, made sure everything was working fine, and put it back together. More of an improvement than a fix, but hopefully it'll hold up for a few more years until I can get a really good one.
"Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank
"Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman
"...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh
I got fixed the supply side spool on my Kodak Tourist II fixed (after grinding too much away trying to get it to work with 120 spools). I also cleaned up an Ansco Memar that had a frozen focus. It isn't "show" quality, but it works and that's more important to me. I hate seeing old cameras that don't work or you can't find film for anymore like my 110 and 126 instamatics.
Agfa B-2 Cadet
cleaned it the other day....tested it & works fine except the small rollers the film emulsion-side goes over...rust spots seem to be damaging the film leaving spots in the negative
sanded them smooth...gonna run a test roll thru tomorrow
I took a slide cutter and added three white Christmas tree lights, a momentary switch, and a two AAA battery pack to light it up from inside so I can make even cuts on my negatives.
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Replaced the tripod socket on the F2A. Noticed my MD-2 felt loose on the camera. When I was done with the roll of film, I took the drive off. Discovered that the socket had been pulled out a little bit. Just enough to seat the screw on the drive before the drive had completely mated to the baseplate. Picked up a replacement part from Camera Clinic in Shoreline, WA. Brought it home, pulled the baseplate, and swapped it. Now the camera doesn't rock sideways when it's placed on a table, and the drive fits flush against the baseplate, like it should.
APUG: F4, F3P, F2ASx2, F FTn, FM2n, Nikomat FT2, Nikkormat FT3 - all blk bodies
Nikkors: 18-70/3.5-4.5G AF-S DX (for DPUG), 28/3.5 H, 35/2 O, 35-135/3.5-4.5 AF, 50/1.4 S, 50/1.4 SC, 55/2.8 Micro AIS, 85/1.8 K, 180/2.8 ED AIS
- My flickr stream
I kind of fixed the Voitlander 35mm VF I have. For some reason the mask inside went crooked, so I had to open it up and straighten it.
Those who know, shoot film
Fixed the original WLF for my Hassy : the top of the hood did not come up properly, and I had to "charge" the spring (looks like it was displaced at a moment in the past).
It looks much better than the Salyut hood I used !
Only dull people are brilliant at breakfast (Oscar Wilde)
My APUG Blog
Linhof TechnikaV: The screw holding the spring tensioner gizmo for the drop-bed strut (with the notches) broke off, leaving my camera with only one functioning strut.
After getting some advice from an old camera repairman, I managed to extract the broken screw myself and replace it with a new one. About two hours' work, and it's good as new.
A simple thing, but I've never extracted a broken-off-screw of this nature before, it was quite tricky.
I replaced the back release on my Mamiya C-220f. I had to remove the skin from the left side to access all the screws, remove the broken plastic mechanism, and find the broken piece that was jamming the release lever in the camera body before I could install the new part. Its all back together and functions like a new one ought to. Now my daughter has a 6x6 TLR to shoot.
BTW: the big kid in my avatar is my hero, my son, who proudly serves us in the Navy. "SALUTE"