I fixed the eye cup on one of my Canon T90s with epoxy adhesive where the rubber cushioning on the eyepiece was coming away from the plastic mount.
Originally Posted by Newt_on_Swings
I Wondering What You Could Do To My Minolta X-700 ?
software bugs i made friday...
I picked up a Graphic View camera a few years back at the local camera show. There were stacks of Graphic Views being blown out, all looking very forlorn and very unwanted. At a glance this Graphic View looked like a disaster, with a tatty vulcanoid case and a broken groundglass. But it was in pretty good condition under the layers of dirt, and surprisingly very complete. (It even has the compendium lens hood in matching red.) I have been tinkering with the camera off and on since then.
Last night, I installed a new groundglass in the Graflock back. Wow, a nice new groundglass (even if it's just plastic) really freshens the camera up and makes a nice shooting experience. It's also etched with frame lines for roll-film backs, making it easier to use the new RH10 back I added to the setup.
To complement the existing Zeiss Jena 135mm and lens board, I also recently got a new-to-me 210mm lens without a lens board. So last night I cut and fit a new lens board. Just need to stain the unfinished wood. I might make one more lens board, for a mint new-in-the-box Graflex Optar that my dad found for me.
Feels good to have rescued a camera that seemed destined for the rubbish, and bring it back to like-new condition and put it to use.
My other camera is a Pentax
I fixed two rolls of 35mm, six sheets of 4x5 and two 8x10 paper negatives. Sadly another four 8x10 paper negatives had nothing after development, which could be a sign for something . . . but, I forget what that's called. So, there was no need to fix those.
Last edited by X. Phot.; 09-28-2011 at 03:07 PM. Click to view previous post history.
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Within the last couple of days I've fixed two items I've bought from APUG members (not their fault, of course!), and both Russian Industar lenses.
Firstly, I fixed an old Industar-50-2, 50/3.5 M42-mount lens that had crud caking the aperture blades. The blades wouldn't function reliably, so I carefully opened it up, removing the front and rear elements, dribbling in some lighter fluid, and dabbing away the crud with a cotton swab. I'd also noticed that the blades had absolutely no correlation with the aperture scale, so in reassembling it I fixed that. Of course then the focus scale was off, so I redid that too. The only issue now is that when screwed onto the camera (I've paired it with a Zenit ET for now), the aperture index mark is on the left side instead of the top. Oops. But it works!
A favorite purchase I made a few months ago was a FED-50 automatic pocket camera in pretty much mint condition. It has its particular quirks but it's irresistible. I noticed upon taking it out of its bag recently that due to some unknown cause, the Industar-81 38/2.8 lens was now shifted a bit out of vertical (i.e., not absolutely parallel to the camera body). This made focusing at close distances difficult: the focusing ring would grind to a halt. The moderate success I had with the other Industar inspired me to tinker with it a bit. After all, what had I to lose? I unscrewed the retainer holding in the plastic photocell bubble ring, lifted the photocell ring itself out of the way, and located the relevant screw of the three that adjusted the lens position, keeping the focusing ring turned to the minimum focus distance as I adjusted and reassembled. More success! :-)
"Embrace the negative with absolution, your final positive reward." --IQ, "The Province," Frequency
Made two lensboards for process lenses on my 8x10 B&J, and made a Jim Galli shutter by cutting an 1/4" slit in a piece of black matt board. Now to practice appropriate speeds with it. Any hints?
Tom, on Point Pelee, Canada
Ansel Adams had the Zone System... I'm working on the points
system. First I points it here, and then I points it there...
Got very lucky and fixed 2 om4t bodies tonight. One had a stuck wind, the other was missing rewind lever with a (doh) closed back, and a missing bottom mirror box covering.
The small parts weren't hard to replace, but I had to break down my existing om4t, which was wonking out.
But to fix the stuck wind, I removed the bottom plates from both the non working, and my existing working body and fired it to see where it was getting stuck by comparing what was moving and what was not. Lots of light prodding and poking. lol
the stuck body was throughly stuck, the winder bypass on the bottom didnt work when using a finger nail, and did not work with a working winder2 attached.
I got very lucky, and determined the problem to be a set of 2 gears, one tensioned by a spring that was blocking the wind stroke. 3 screws removed (3 different sizes lol) to free the gear set piece, unloaded the tension, replaced, and it was still stuck! still felt funny so took it apart again, unwound the tension, wound the body a few times, then replaced the gearing, and voila! back to life!!!
The other parts were more straight forward, removal of one winding lever from working body, and reattachment got me access to open back. (spent 20mintues looking for that black mini slotted screw on top that dropped off my work surface onto the carpet) screws in/out with a coin held in the rewind stem.
The bottom mirror box cover was taken out of that older body, cleaned the corners of old glue, and was reglued and attached back in place.
I wish there was more information on om4t repairs online, but there is almost none. Hopefully someone can benefit from this info!
If anyone knows how to replace a pentaprism let me know, one of the newer working bodies has a chip in the prisim which is viewable from the viewfinder, slightly above center(very annoying spot). i took off the focusing screen to see if it was dirt on exposed prisim surface, but it is internal and not dirt. the point of impact is a conical chip, so it looks like a black dot/crosshair. I have a extra prisim from that wonky body and would like to change it if its not to complicated.
My Pentax 645N!
After shooting the 4th frame on a 120 roll last week, my camera suddenly rewound with the "low battery" warning flashing on the LCD. I opened up the back to remove the roll but it wasn't completely rewound as it always does when the batteries get too low. I removed the film when I got back home and replaced the batteries with a new set but the camera wouldn't function and "err" was on the LCD. According to the manual a flashing "err" is bad news but it wasn't flashing on mine - just steady. So for the past week I've been pondering having the camera fixed. If I sent it in the Pentax Repair - now CRIS camera in AZ, the bill would be at least $150 if it could be repaired and probably the same if not more locally. While waiting on a UPS delivery this afternoon I logged onto KEH camera repair site and didn't find a "err" symptom on the drop-down service quote menu and was leery of sending it to them for the $35 quote. Then I got the idea to put in the new batteries, set the operating switch to "on" and pressed the mid-roll rewind button a few times. On the 3d or 4th press the camera suddenly came to life and the back rewound with "0" appearing in the LCD instead of "err." The camera is now back working and I didn't have to spend a cent!
Now if I could only figure out why the camera rewinds giving me a "low battery" indicator when shooting with the P67 120mm soft focus lens w/Pentax 67 to 645 adapter? A couple of years back I sent the camera, lens, adapter and back to CRIS and they charged me $160 or so dollars saying they replaced a spring but the camera still does it and only with the 120 soft and not with any other P67 lens. If you have an answer to this please share it with me.
BTW, the 4 frames I shot turned out not fogged!
New lights seals for an older NOS Bronica SQ 120 back I got recently. Shocking how damned pricey these have become. Snagged this one for peanuts after over a year of hunting on the big auction site. Lights seal replacement on these and Mamiya RB67 backs is dead simple and cheap, too.