I fixed two rolls of 35mm, six sheets of 4x5 and two 8x10 paper negatives. Sadly another four 8x10 paper negatives had nothing after development, which could be a sign for something . . . but, I forget what that's called. So, there was no need to fix those.
Last edited by X. Phot.; 09-28-2011 at 03:07 PM. Click to view previous post history.
Within the last couple of days I've fixed two items I've bought from APUG members (not their fault, of course!), and both Russian Industar lenses.
Firstly, I fixed an old Industar-50-2, 50/3.5 M42-mount lens that had crud caking the aperture blades. The blades wouldn't function reliably, so I carefully opened it up, removing the front and rear elements, dribbling in some lighter fluid, and dabbing away the crud with a cotton swab. I'd also noticed that the blades had absolutely no correlation with the aperture scale, so in reassembling it I fixed that. Of course then the focus scale was off, so I redid that too. The only issue now is that when screwed onto the camera (I've paired it with a Zenit ET for now), the aperture index mark is on the left side instead of the top. Oops. But it works!
A favorite purchase I made a few months ago was a FED-50 automatic pocket camera in pretty much mint condition. It has its particular quirks but it's irresistible. I noticed upon taking it out of its bag recently that due to some unknown cause, the Industar-81 38/2.8 lens was now shifted a bit out of vertical (i.e., not absolutely parallel to the camera body). This made focusing at close distances difficult: the focusing ring would grind to a halt. The moderate success I had with the other Industar inspired me to tinker with it a bit. After all, what had I to lose? I unscrewed the retainer holding in the plastic photocell bubble ring, lifted the photocell ring itself out of the way, and located the relevant screw of the three that adjusted the lens position, keeping the focusing ring turned to the minimum focus distance as I adjusted and reassembled. More success! :-)
"Embrace the negative with absolution, your final positive reward." --IQ, "The Province," Frequency
Made two lensboards for process lenses on my 8x10 B&J, and made a Jim Galli shutter by cutting an 1/4" slit in a piece of black matt board. Now to practice appropriate speeds with it. Any hints?
Tom, on Point Pelee, Canada
Ansel Adams had the Zone System... I'm working on the points
system. First I points it here, and then I points it there...
Got very lucky and fixed 2 om4t bodies tonight. One had a stuck wind, the other was missing rewind lever with a (doh) closed back, and a missing bottom mirror box covering.
The small parts weren't hard to replace, but I had to break down my existing om4t, which was wonking out.
But to fix the stuck wind, I removed the bottom plates from both the non working, and my existing working body and fired it to see where it was getting stuck by comparing what was moving and what was not. Lots of light prodding and poking. lol
the stuck body was throughly stuck, the winder bypass on the bottom didnt work when using a finger nail, and did not work with a working winder2 attached.
I got very lucky, and determined the problem to be a set of 2 gears, one tensioned by a spring that was blocking the wind stroke. 3 screws removed (3 different sizes lol) to free the gear set piece, unloaded the tension, replaced, and it was still stuck! still felt funny so took it apart again, unwound the tension, wound the body a few times, then replaced the gearing, and voila! back to life!!!
The other parts were more straight forward, removal of one winding lever from working body, and reattachment got me access to open back. (spent 20mintues looking for that black mini slotted screw on top that dropped off my work surface onto the carpet) screws in/out with a coin held in the rewind stem.
The bottom mirror box cover was taken out of that older body, cleaned the corners of old glue, and was reglued and attached back in place.
I wish there was more information on om4t repairs online, but there is almost none. Hopefully someone can benefit from this info!
If anyone knows how to replace a pentaprism let me know, one of the newer working bodies has a chip in the prisim which is viewable from the viewfinder, slightly above center(very annoying spot). i took off the focusing screen to see if it was dirt on exposed prisim surface, but it is internal and not dirt. the point of impact is a conical chip, so it looks like a black dot/crosshair. I have a extra prisim from that wonky body and would like to change it if its not to complicated.
My Pentax 645N!
After shooting the 4th frame on a 120 roll last week, my camera suddenly rewound with the "low battery" warning flashing on the LCD. I opened up the back to remove the roll but it wasn't completely rewound as it always does when the batteries get too low. I removed the film when I got back home and replaced the batteries with a new set but the camera wouldn't function and "err" was on the LCD. According to the manual a flashing "err" is bad news but it wasn't flashing on mine - just steady. So for the past week I've been pondering having the camera fixed. If I sent it in the Pentax Repair - now CRIS camera in AZ, the bill would be at least $150 if it could be repaired and probably the same if not more locally. While waiting on a UPS delivery this afternoon I logged onto KEH camera repair site and didn't find a "err" symptom on the drop-down service quote menu and was leery of sending it to them for the $35 quote. Then I got the idea to put in the new batteries, set the operating switch to "on" and pressed the mid-roll rewind button a few times. On the 3d or 4th press the camera suddenly came to life and the back rewound with "0" appearing in the LCD instead of "err." The camera is now back working and I didn't have to spend a cent!
Now if I could only figure out why the camera rewinds giving me a "low battery" indicator when shooting with the P67 120mm soft focus lens w/Pentax 67 to 645 adapter? A couple of years back I sent the camera, lens, adapter and back to CRIS and they charged me $160 or so dollars saying they replaced a spring but the camera still does it and only with the 120 soft and not with any other P67 lens. If you have an answer to this please share it with me.
BTW, the 4 frames I shot turned out not fogged!
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New lights seals for an older NOS Bronica SQ 120 back I got recently. Shocking how damned pricey these have become. Snagged this one for peanuts after over a year of hunting on the big auction site. Lights seal replacement on these and Mamiya RB67 backs is dead simple and cheap, too.
Did a real hack job calibrating my Super Ikonta 533/16. I ground a sheet of plastic with fine sanding paper to use as a ground glass and fixed it with scotch tape, but it didn't stay flat. So I wound two rubber bands onto 120 spools and spanned them across the plastic, just like a regular film, to get the plastic flat (that worked pretty well, actually). Then I used the rear lens element from a 135mm lens I recently disassembled as a focusing loupe to get the focus right. I sure hope it was worth it, just loaded a roll of Fomapan and taking the camera out this afternoon.
I also "fixed" my Canon F-1n. The mirror got stuck repeatedly and only returned when I dismounted the lens. Oddly, that only happened at 1/125th shutter speed, and only with my 50mm f1.4 lens. The solution, it turned out, was to cock the shutter prior to mounting the lens. I normally do that, but I must've forgotten it the last time I mounted that lens.
And the sign said, "long haired freaky people need not apply"
"Then I used the rear lens element from a 135mm lens I recently disassembled as a focusing loupe to get the focus right."
Funny, I do the same thing.
Go not to the elves for counsel, for they will say both yes and no.
Replaced the right top decking on a chrome F2 (mint DE1 model) that I picked up on eBay over a year ago. The camera, a 714xxxx body did not have a mark on it save for an unfortunate dent on the top plate beneath the film advance lever. After scouring the shops I found an As-Is body that was totally fubared (Film advance didn't, mirror was locked up, and I could not get the door opened for the life of me. Sooo, BK the photo surgeon did his deed. The most difficult part was keeping track of the dinky little screws. Wow, were these cameras put together well. The "operation" was a success and the patient is in recovery; loaded with E100VS, it will be making a trip to Cathedral Grove sometime during the week of the 11th of December...
I did a tear down, and cleaning, to fix a few issues of a Canon Demi S this past weekend. It was a really disgusting piece covered in dust, mold, dirt, and in some areas even salt deposits?! The mold had even eaten into the metal on some parts. I remember when I had opened the back the first time when i got it, there was a small plume of mold/dust that kicked up, and I started to sneeze lol. The leatherette case it was in, was caked with it.
I would never have bought this camera had I know about this, but the guy who I bought it from failed to mention this(as well as a few other things), and ultimately didn't even want it back since it sold for so low. So it sat in a corner for awhile, debating if I should even work on it, or just toss it as a lost cause.
The shutter, aperture, and wind, were all stuck, basically all seized up. When I started to take it apart, I noticed that the camera had been worked on before, there was one screw that was stripped, and the others had tool marks on them. The leatherette covering also had holes in it, that exposed the screws, which were painted black, I assume to cover up previous work?
Well I wiped all visible and reachable surfaces with a lysol disinfecting wipe(except the lens), while using a screwdriver to poke the wipe into the smaller areas. Flooded the fungus/mold ridden foam on the back with naphtha and scraped most of it away.
I first took off the front panels, to try and check for the wind jam but couldnt find it. tried firing the shutter by manually pressing down the lever on the side of the shutter assembly, but it didnt work. The I unscrewed the front lens assembly/ shutter speed/ aperture ring/Asa ISO spring dial to try and get deeper. Still coudnt fix it, So I thought it must be stuck in the gearing under the wind lever. So I took apart the top plate, and traced the problem back. It was a gear catch lever that wasn't returning, which blocked the wind lever from moving, if you hold it open with one hand it allowed it to wind. so I retraced the connections and I applied a bit more force to return the long connecting lever from the wind to the shutter assembly and it popped back into place. This fixed the winding problem.
Now onto the lens, since It wound up, I tried to fire it, but nothing happened and the aperture was still stuck open. I soaked a Qtip in naphtha and touched on the sides of the shutter, and after a bit, it popped back as well, and the aperture blades were able to open and close up. But after drying the problem returned.
I did this a number of times, flushing it with a soaked qtip, and firing away at all speeds. It was quite frustrating. This part took the longest. I ended up realizing from reading a bit more online, that I probably needed graphite to lube the blades. I didnt have the option of running to the store, not even sure where and if its even sold by me. So I took a piece of mechanical pencil lead (which is graphite as well) and scrapped it with the sides of a sharp pair of tweezers, which gave me a fair amount of very fine material to work with.
I applied to this a small bit of pec-pad, and rubbed it on the still wet shutter. I alternated this and firing, and finally drying it out with compressed air. and then finally it worked and stayed working.
Reassebly wasnt that tricky, but I found out that If you tighten the screws on the lens assembly a bit to much, you lock the shutter speeds and the aperture settings from turning. I had to take it apart and loosen then screws a bit and assemble again.
So mission accomplished, I have to put some foam in the back if I have time this week, and Ill shoot a test roll and see how it performs. =]