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  1. #481

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    Doing a fantastic Albinar ADG 28 2.8 Macro tomorrow, has a focusing issue, and a Quantaray 135 2.8 purchased on here, slow aperture blades. Very impressive wide-open though.

    Also need to re-lube the helicoids on a Rokinon 28 2.8, fantastically sharp lens stopped down.
    5x7 Eastman-Kodak kit, under the knife for a bit
    4x5 Graphic View / Schneider 180 / Ektar 127
    RB67 Pro S / 50 4.5 / 90 3.8 / 180 4.5 / WLF / prism finder / polaback
    Random 35mm stuff

  2. #482

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    Albinar is repaired!! The Rokinon is lubed too! The Albinar was my first full-blown disassembly and repair
    5x7 Eastman-Kodak kit, under the knife for a bit
    4x5 Graphic View / Schneider 180 / Ektar 127
    RB67 Pro S / 50 4.5 / 90 3.8 / 180 4.5 / WLF / prism finder / polaback
    Random 35mm stuff

  3. #483
    Newt_on_Swings's Avatar
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    Mar 2011
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    Fixed a cheapo zykkor 135mm 2.8 lens, frozen open aperture blades. Took off rear mount and aperture ring, unscrewed rear element which kinda just fell out lol applied naphtha and worked the blades for awhile. application of extra fine graphite to the blades and worked that in as well. Nice and snappy now.

    Failed to fix a Tokina 100-300mm lens with slow closing blades. took it apart and cleaned, but it was still slow going back. Looks like then small spring the returns it is worn out, there was a small kink in it. Not a big deal as is closes down fine and opens up all the way when set to its widest aperture manually.

  4. #484
    ambaker's Avatar
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    May 2011
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    Fix may be too strong of a word. I bought a parts/repair Yashica-A TLR. According to the PO, it would not shoot, and it was missing two pieces of the leatherette covering. This afternoon seemed like a real nice time to disassemble the shutter and see what could be done. All the controls seemed to work OK, but there was some sort of cable release adapter where the shutter button should be. So I unscrewed the adapter, and lo and behold the shutter seems to work fine at all speeds. The cocking lever seems a little slow on the return, but looks like the major "fixing" is complete.

    Sent from my AT100 using Tapatalk

  5. #485
    John_Nikon_F's Avatar
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    Apr 2008
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    Didn't do anything today, but in the past 72 hours, I've added a motor drive plate for my Nikon F FTn and resurrected the shutter on Ralph Javins' F2 Photomic that he just picked up. Both simple fixes that took less than 5 minutes each.

    -J
    APUG: F2AS x2, F, FM2n, Nikomat FTn
    DPUG: D200
    Nikkors: 18-70/3.5-4.5G AF-S DX (f/D200), 20/3.5 UD, 24/2.8 AI, 50/2 AI, 50/1.4 AI, 50/1.4 S, 55/2.8 Micro AIS, 85/1.8 K, 135/3.5 QC

    My FB - My flickr stream
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  6. #486

    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    Bothell, WA
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    Stripped down a Ricohmatic 225 front standard. Replaced the front element (the original was scratched to oblivion), cleaned the shutter blades and fixed little bit of focus lever shielding getting stuck. Everything from the front looks nice. Cleaned the mirror and viewing element while I was at it.

    Unfortunately I neglected to test the film advance part of the system before starting work. It isn't advancing correctly. I disassembled part of the winding mechanism but am still sorting out exactly how it works.

    Over all though, this camera seems rather simple and elegant compared to most I have experience repairing.

  7. #487

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    Dec 2010
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    Grande Prairie, Alberta, Canada
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    I just received a totally mint Nikon F Photomic FTN for $79 and of course it requires a battery conversion for modern day non-mercury batteries. So I put a piece of Delrin rod, a very good hard plastic that machines well and that I've used for other photo applications, in my metal lathe and machined the outside diameter down to fit inside the battery chamber. I then bored a hole in the center to accept the ZA675 batteries that will work as replacements. In the top edge of the cylinder and part way down the side I cut a groove and placed a strip of thin copper in it so that it would touch the small contact point in the battery chamber to complete the circuit. The copper strip also extends into the center of the battery and with the compartment cap in place, presses down on the battery to maintain contact. Checked it out against another meter and it seems to be right on. I had this model of camera back in the late 70's and then it was stolen. It will be great to once again shoot a classic Nikon that I really enjoyed back then.

  8. #488
    John_Nikon_F's Avatar
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    Apr 2008
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    ^ Hmmm, how much would you charge to make a few of those? Know of at least four people who'd be interested in having such an adapter... One of them being myself. I do plan to get my FTn finder converted to 1.5 volts, but it would be nice to be able to run the much more common S76's than the S625PX's that seem to be made of unobtanium.

    -J
    APUG: F2AS x2, F, FM2n, Nikomat FTn
    DPUG: D200
    Nikkors: 18-70/3.5-4.5G AF-S DX (f/D200), 20/3.5 UD, 24/2.8 AI, 50/2 AI, 50/1.4 AI, 50/1.4 S, 55/2.8 Micro AIS, 85/1.8 K, 135/3.5 QC

    My FB - My flickr stream
    My SmugMug

  9. #489

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    Dec 2010
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    John, I wouldn't want to commit right now as I just sort of figure this out on the go and haven't even taken one picture yet let alone have it bounce around in field. I'll keep your contact handy and if it seems to be stable and workable I will give you shout.

  10. #490
    McFortner's Avatar
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    Apr 2009
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    My Polaroid Pronto!RF had problems triggering the Lemar PS-7 flash attached to it. The flash would work on my Pronto!B with no problems, so I disassembled the RF and found a sliver of what looked like fine wire in the contacts. After removal and reassembly the flash fires with no problem.



 

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