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  1. #101

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    Welcome my brother!

  2. #102
    razzledog's Avatar
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    Golden cams...

    I make the 150mm cams out of gold...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Golden cams.jpg  

  3. #103

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    This is utterly fascinating. Keep it up.
    I have a 110A which I'm planning to do a simple conversion to, but your work is superb and an inspiration. If I got mine half as good as yours I'd be happy with it.

  4. #104

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    Hey Farside, don't let the chance go easily, here you can ask any question about your conversion, me and my brother Dean would love to provide answers for your reference. Or even more, we may provide different way of solutions!!

    And you may inspire us for improvements!

  5. #105

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    Now, for a easier way to mount/un-mount this big eye, I need to develop another front standard/ lens board system, differ from the previous version.

    They will be similar to normal view camera, with a somewhat rectangular lens board, and front standard will have a spring clip to lock the board.

    The board, with maximum size of open hole to 60mm, Byron surely expands its lenses option, and since front standard extrudes a little bit, avoiding struts conflicting with shutter, so #2 shutter is possible too.

    But the best thing this new system brings, is the opportunity to embrace 75mm wide angle lens without any difficulty. Previous version lens board takes 75mm too, but camera bed will block a little bit at one side, shading the image.


    With new design, it may be no problem any more, but I need test first.

    New system is specifically designed for big size lenses, it may not allow lens to stay in camera body when folded. I will try to keep the lens in, if lens board reverse the direction.

    Oh, another minor thing, bellows needs new size too, for those big rear...

    I got a Grandagon 4.5/75mm lens in #0 shutter, the one shown in image above, a beauty.

    New front standard/ lens board system plans to take this lens as wide angle end limit, not because front standard extruding or backward some distance, to avoid the blocking of camera bed, but by rising the lens a little bit.

    It is about 7mm blocking on one side of frame, caused by lens backward too much thus camera bed shades the frame. It is no use to change lens board or front standard, because the distance requirement between lens and focal plane is fixed when focusing at infinity.


    The only chance to avoid the blocking, is to rise the lens.

    I checked Grandagon data, it has 195mm image circle in f22, so there is plenty area to move.
    Image above shows the reason one side of frame is blocked, 75mm lens to way too much backward, thus makes camera bed extruding and blocking the frame. On other LF camera like Technika, camera bed can be fall down a bit, to avoid the blocking, but Byron can not fall down the bed.

    Another way to solve the problem, is by rising the lens a bit, makes less blocking area, thus eliminates the shading in negative area.

    This way works in two conditions, 1. lens image circle is big enough for rising. 2. lens rise enough distance.

    195mm image circle is big enough for rising, the only problem is how high we can rise the lens?
    In new front standard/ lens board system, front standard opening size is big, 61mm in diameter! Even bigger than previous version's lens board (60mm). images above shows that a #0 shutter should be able to rise no less than10mm, I believe it should solve the blocking problem.

    But again, I need the test to approve it.

    And why 61mm in dia. opening? Well, I want to directly mount the lens, and Grandagon 75 has a 60mm dia rear, that is why.

  6. #106

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    Prototype came back this afternoon, new front standard is easy to use. Here two types of front standard sit side by side, with circular/ rectangular lens board accordingly.

    New front standard has a sliding lock at the top, it is big, so you can grab it with fingers very easy.

    You hold the sliding lock and pull it upward, that release the lens board, you release the lock, with help of springs, lock slides back and locks the board, that easy.

    Front view of prototype, light trap around lens board keeps light away.

    Like I said before, this front standard is great when you use big eyes, here are what I tested.. two Xenotar 2.8/150 with #2 shutter, one Xenotar 3.5/135 with #1 shutter, one Tele Arton 5.5/270 with #1 shutter, one Super Angulon 8/90 with #0 shutter, one Grandagon 4.5/75 with #0 shutter.
    Only Xenotar 2.8/150 needs to be mounted in-directly, others all are capable of directly mounted.

    Thanks to NY Jeff, push me to solve problem mounting Xenotar 2.8/150 on Byron, without him, I would not make it!


    This is the biggest lens Byron can hold, rear element is too big, can not mount the lens directly, what a pity.
    Funny thing is that almost emails came asking about Xenotar 150 are fashion photographers, but that make sense, this heavy big lens is too bulky for snaps.

    Tele Arton 5.5/270, very easy to mount on, but I need to test the rail limit.
    And for Grandagon 4.5/75; SA 8/90 and Xenotar 3.5/135, this front standard is easy to mount directly.
    Now is time for minor modifications, round corners, dimension adjusts......
    and matte black surface paint.

  7. #107
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    Hi Mate...Did you receive any help from NY William? LOL. This idea is much better than a bayonet mount....I like it..wish you lived closer to Melbourne.
    Last edited by razzledog; 06-13-2010 at 05:11 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  8. #108

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    sh........, don't wake him. though it's a little bit boring these days....

  9. #109
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    You're right...it's time for me to end production of the 'RAZZLE' this coming November. After nine years I think it is time for a new approach...

  10. #110

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    Why saying that? Chinese came stealing your ideas too?

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