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  1. #11
    Steve Smith's Avatar
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    Another option is to use an existing part from a defunct camera. I used the threaded insert from an old Mamiya C33. Behind the vinyl trim are three fixing screws.




    Steve.

  2. #12

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    i just found this on Ebay.
    http://cgi.ebay.com/Skink-tripod-soc...item439d00d483
    i also think i will contact Barry and see if he can make me one. im also wondering how to go about attatching it. can i just use basic wood screws to screw it into the base? or should i have something on top like shown in the picture here http://www.raymentkirbycameras.co.uk...g-the-job.html

  3. #13
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    I just used ordinary wood screws. One advantage of having Barry make them is that I could specify a flange size that corresponds to a flat drill bit that I already own (1") for the countersink.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  4. #14
    lxdude's Avatar
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    I would recommend the B or C type shown instead of the barbed types. Secure them with screws. You can also use glue under the flange for added stability.
    If the wood is robust enough, I like the idea of the threaded insert. That's very stable, even more if it is installed with glue. Also, those are usually brass instead of thin walled aluminum.
    Whatever you use, if you use glue as part of the installation, insert a screw with a film of oil on its threads into the threads of the insert. Remove it after the glue dries.

  5. #15

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    Note that the Kirby site show the fittings inserted from the top also.
    When installed like this, the woodscrews aren't really a working part of the tripod socket. They just keep it from rotating or becoming loose.
    Heavily sedated for your protection.

  6. #16

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    I had noticed that on the kirby site and that seems like it might be the strongest option but im not exactly sure how to do it. all that i got out of his write up was that he uses a brass bush? does anyone know more specificly how to make a tripod socket like that? im realy concerned about stability. it would be very disapointing to have all my hard work destroyed after the camera comes crashing down because of a faulty tripod socket.

  7. #17

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    Either the Barry Young route or T-nut.
    With a standard 1/4 or 3/8 t-nut the flat section will be about 3/4" diameter. That seems to be about the norm.
    The advantage to Barry's is it's a much larger flange & will spread the load better. If it's brass, it will be prettier too.
    Heavily sedated for your protection.

  8. #18
    Steve Smith's Avatar
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    Something worth considering if it's a very heavy camera is that the tripod thread isn't actually 1/4 20 UNC. It is 1/4" British Standard Whitworth which is also a 20 threads per inch thread but is cut at an angle of 55 degrees instead of 60 degrees for the American UNC thread.

    For all practical purposes they are interchangeable but if you are having a brass insert made specifically for this purpose it would be a good idea to have it tapped with the Whitworth thread.


    Steve.

  9. #19
    Andrew Moxom's Avatar
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    The Skink tripod socket is what I used on a 4x5 pinhole camera I made. They are obviously very heavy as they are made of stainless and quite large diameter. That said, it is the way to go for holding anything large.

    Quote Originally Posted by reefman77 View Post
    i just found this on Ebay.
    http://cgi.ebay.com/Skink-tripod-soc...item439d00d483
    i also think i will contact Barry and see if he can make me one. im also wondering how to go about attatching it. can i just use basic wood screws to screw it into the base? or should i have something on top like shown in the picture here http://www.raymentkirbycameras.co.uk...g-the-job.html
    Please check out my website www.amoxomphotography.com and APUG Portfolio .....

  10. #20
    Rick A's Avatar
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    I think that if your camera is large and heavy, that a 3/8" t-nut or insert would be the size of choice, as opposed to 1/4". Looks like the Skink is well made and should fit the bill nicely.

    Rick

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