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  1. #21

    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    NYC
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    1,187
    Lucky is the word, not carefull, most times the mirror cracks when users try straightening it carefully. It's very common that's why I warned him to leave it alone...twice.

    I really don't care what anyone does with their camera, but sheesh, don't ask for advice n disregard it when offered. Also the damge to the frame may be far worse with such force on the delicate internal mirror transport mechanism, even hanging up the govonor.

    No yelling, screaming or scorn... just forcefully urging people to leave it be in bold type. No sence after the fact the damage done n we just add it on to the bill.

    Any repair shop would have done a focus adjustment cheap.
    Anyone can make a Digital print, but only a photographer can make a photograph.

  2. #22
    ic-racer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Midwest USA
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    6,293
    This is the method I use:

    Measure the lens travel of one revolution of the focus ring, measure the circumfrence. Figure out how much the lens moves in and out for one millimeter of focus ring twisting. Shoot a few frames and "Bracket focus" your target, keep notes on where the focus ring was. Look at the negatives and go back and measure how much you turned the focus ring to get in focus (compared to the finder). Calculate the focus shift. Make a stack of 10 pieces of tape, measure and divide by 10. Then you can figure how many pieces of tape you would need to shim you focusing screen up or down to make it match the film.

  3. #23

    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Sydney, AUstralia
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    35mm
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    42
    Paul wrote: "That twist in the mirror is intensional and belongs there."

    How so? As I see it, any twist is going to cause a relative focus shift from one side of the frame to the other. You can shim out the focus screen all you like, and end up with a camera where only the center of the frame matches, and either side are off.

    I think the OP should get the mirror angle right before he tries to adjust or shim anything else.

    I just checked my spare super body (I got a non-functional spare with my super, and sold the super but kept the non-functional body). When the mirror is down, it sits accurately square. When I operate the mirror up knob to lift it, the side on the knob lifts first by a millimetre or so. But importantly, when the mirror drops back down on its stop, it's square.

    Do you want my spare body? It's no good for me, so it's yours for the postage.
    Last edited by suzyj; 03-26-2010 at 10:34 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  4. #24

    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Montgomery, Il/USA
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    I agree with Paul.
    The last thing to futz with is the mirror, at least until ALL other avenues have been tried and eliminated.

    The most common failing will be the focusing screen or the lens barrel/infinity stop slipping. These items are easily adjusted and relatively easily knocked out of adjustment.

    TK, the mirror is usually held to the frame with springs, push them away from the mirror to the side, don't lift them. Some cameras have them glued in & some have small corner retainers that are screwed in.
    Heavily sedated for your protection.

  5. #25

    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Central Florida, USA
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    I *may* have found the source of my problem.

    Looking very closely at the mirror stop with MUP, I noticed the stop itself is a cam mechanism. I also noticed, the adjustment screw was crocked. Then I noticed, the little cam that this screw goes into is crocked and the little metal tab that this screw pushes against is slightly bent. I then noticed, by carefully moving the mirror stop itself (which itself is another cam), the one with a screw moves, BUT it moves side ways instead of forward and backward. Also, this mirror spot binds as I move it with a tweezers despite the fact it is spring loaded.

    That pretty much means I will not be able to make a reliable adjustment that will stay. If the camera gets bumped and this lever moves somewhat, then it will stay causing recalibration.

    It is hard to say without knowing exactly how these little pieces are mounted, but the fact that one with screw moves sideway bothers me quite a bit. That means whatever the piece this "thing" mounts to or the cam itself is broken - possibly also causing this bind symptom.

    I am all working off of my visual observations. Are there anyone here who has taken this piece apart of know exactly how these cams are put together? (more importantly mounted?)
    Develop, stop, fix.... wait.... where's my film?

  6. #26

    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Central Florida, USA
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    I'd like to report back with my findings.

    While it is entirely possible I may have multiple problems and misalignment, I found one definite issue. Mirror stop is BROKEN.

    As you can see in THIS picture, http://www.flickr.com/photos/tkamiya9/4469630129/ there is a cam mechanism on Mamiya 645 Super to adjust the mirror angle at DOWN position. I noticed the hammer looking piece moves somewhat independently to the piece with screw. So after discussions with kind soul from APUG and having not much to lose, I disassembled it carefully.

    Here's what I found:
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/tkamiya9/4469630863/
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/tkamiya9/4470408036/

    Please note, this picture was taken with microscope at 10x magnification. The whole piece is only 12mm long. Cracked portion is 3mm wide and less than 1mm thick. It was held in place with screw and a spring. This piece has cracked open and the adjustment part and the stop part is no longer effectively connected.

    Now, I'll have to repair this and adjust before I can do anything.

    I'd like to thank everyone who contributed to this thread for giving this newbie hints and ideas. So far, I have not destroyed my Mamiya
    Develop, stop, fix.... wait.... where's my film?

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