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  1. #11

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    ...and so, the previously built rear standard was glued to the inner box...


    The front standard (box) was then constructed and trial fitted...


    The next step was to jury rig the lens (as I didn't get time to build the lens assembly), just to test all was well...
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  2. #12

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    To rig the lens up, I used some mount card (white on one side, black on the other), cut a 32mm hole in it, and stuck it to the front standard. The 135mm aplanat lens was then screwed in...


    I then laid the camera on the floor, slid the ground glass into place, set the shutter to 'T' and fired it. This is what I saw...


    Still, there's a way to go yet... I need to build the lens assembly and the base-board, fit some kind of locking device to the rear standard and then I'll be just about done.

    Oh, and then I'll have take it apart, blacken the inside and varnish the outside.

    :0)
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  3. #13

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    This is an interesting project! Since this is basically a box sliding within a box to focus the image, how do you make it light tight? Can't light get through the space between the boxes? Do you have to make some sort of baffle? If there is no baffle, won't the fit be too tight to allow the boxes to slide?

    Jon

  4. #14

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    You're asking all the questions that I was wondering about! You don't need any baffles, as long as the front standard slides over the rear section; any light entering would have to turn through 180deg to reach the film holder. Even when this sort of camera was made in the 1840's & 1850's, no baffle was used.

    However, you can have a slightly sloppy fit and then use felt on the inside walls of the front standard if you want. I might even do it to this one as the boxes are currently quite a tight fit and don't slide smoothly (and the felt option might just solve that).

    These look like really simple cameras to make, but as I've found out, they're actually pretty difficult - especially with the little 3mm comb joints I used! Your measurements have to be spot on as the rear standard fits over the inner box, but the front standard must be a sliding fit.

    Anyway, it was a great way to spend the day! Now I need to get some time to complete it properly.
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  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by vickersdc View Post
    they're actually pretty difficult - especially with the little 3mm comb joints I used!
    Have a look at my panoramic camera link (below) for my cheating method.

    Actually, yours look good but I assume they were very time consuming to cut.


    Steve.

  6. #16
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    What happens to these sliding box cameras when it gets hot and humid and the wood swells? Is the trick to select wood which is immune from swelling?
    Charles Hohenstein

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chazzy View Post
    What happens to these sliding box cameras when it gets hot and humid and the wood swells? Is the trick to select wood which is immune from swelling?
    Not sure - I'll let you know after it's rained and the sun comes out!
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  8. #18

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    Whilst making some brass knobs for a contact printing frame that I'm building for someone, I thought I'd take the opportunity to make a couple of smaller locking knobs for my camera.

    I made two of these for the camera - one to lock the rise & fall movement on the lens panel assembly, and another to lock the focusing on the rear standard.

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  9. #19

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    This prototype camera moves on apace! I've made the front sub-assembly that will allow the front lens assembly to rise and fall. That meant fitting a frame into the front of the front standard (box), inserting a locking screw and milling a square hole to accept the locking screw.


    The front view showing the frame and locking screw / knob. This will have runners down either side of it to allow the lens panel to rise/fall.


    The locking screw is a brass M4 pan-head screw, that has had the head ground to form two flat surfaces. This head will then fit into a milled recess in the back of the sub-assembly...


    ...and here you can make out the recess with the locking screw fitted.

    I've just managed to sneak into the workshop for 15 minutes so that I could make the front runners. The front end of the camera is starting to take shape now that I have cut and installed the front runners. These will allow the lens panel to slide up and down, providing rise / fall movements.

    Last edited by vickersdc; 04-14-2010 at 06:25 AM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: Added the final image showing the front runners.
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  10. #20

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    Rise and fall on the horizontal plane?

    Jon

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