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  1. #1
    nick mulder's Avatar
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    The never-ending bellows adhesive question

    heh,

    so I've been using spray adhesive lately, seems to work especially well on the leather interior (suede) to plastic strip connection, especially if the plastic has a bit of tooth to it (quick belt of coarse sand paper)... It also works wonders on the interior material (satin in my case) to leather connection, which is in between the strips and the triangle strip 'voids' around the corners (which allow more compact folding) - for whatever reason it is not so hot on satin to strip stickiness...

    I tried on a book binders advice good ol' PVA which soaked very well into the leather but a day later I could pull off the plastic strip about a smidge easier than I could the spray adhesive (3M or Ados brand). It left a nice smooth PVA surface on the suede.

    Now I understand that such direct tensile pull-apart forces are never placed on the bellows, so maybe its a silly test - the real forces are of the shear variety when you invert the bellows if you made it inside out, but then here's the biggy that concerns me the most:

    TIME

    Forgetting my process for now - I'm keen to learn yours

    1. Which glues will stand the test of time?
    2. Can glues fight each other chemically ? (I noticed black paint for instance greatly reduced the efficacy or the spray adhesive)
    3. It's often hard to apply pressure over the large areas effectively, especially if you are not making it flat (with a form or without) - how do you account for this ? Are any glues better at drying/curing without pressure?
    4. what glues do you use ? (chemical or generic type if possible please, we don't all live in the same place, so branding may not be the same)
    Cleared the bowel problem, working on the consonants...

  2. #2

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    I use spray on glue for laminating the layers together and PVA for the joint. I have little faith in the spray glue over time but believe that once the bellows is folded it will probably stay together long enough. If it lasts 5 years I would consider that sufficient. It is not that much trouble to make a new bellows. The cost of materials for me is about £10 and I put the time invested into my fun folder.

  3. #3
    nick mulder's Avatar
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    yes - I'd agree until I started making leather bellows ...

    ULF size for instance = higher construction costs all round and the requirement (for me at least) to build a formwork to work on - two cans of spray adhesive would chew away that £10 in one hit - whereas PVA seems to run on tap, just the pressure issue - need some loooooooong clamps and a kind of double outer formwork - hmmm, maybe kind of like a morse taper - I wonder ...
    Cleared the bowel problem, working on the consonants...

  4. #4

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    Nick, yes the spray glue can work out expensive, you could try a contact adhesive but that is really tricky with large sheets of floppy fabric. The largest bellows that I have built was for a 12" x 10" camera and if I remember correctly I used watered down PVA (to slow the setting time) and just laid a sheet of plywood on top with any heavy objects that I could lay my hands on. It worked out fine but I dont think that it would have lasted long as I had used plastic backed paper for the outer layer. But it worked!

  5. #5

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    Weather strip cement from the local car part emporium.
    Heavily sedated for your protection.

  6. #6
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    The UK bellows manufacturers use Evostick, not sure if that's a brand available in AUS/US, but it's what the OEM used for my De Vere monorail's bellows.and years later for my bag bellows.

    I've also used it to glue shutter curtain to the rollers in Thornton Pickard shutters and it's an excellent strong bond.

    Ian

  7. #7
    nick mulder's Avatar
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    Evostik, interesting that a proper manufacturer uses it - but which variety ?

    http://www.bostik.co.uk/diy/brand/EVO-STIK


    Weather strip cement - there are lots of brands but 3M I'd expect to be a good example



    (?)

    any reasons you prefer/chose it ?
    Cleared the bowel problem, working on the consonants...

  8. #8
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    The original Evostick is now called Impact adhesive, I use the small tubes, it's been around since at least the 1940's.

    I guess one reason I choose it is it's always been the leading glue of it's type in the UK so I'm very familiar with it as. When I stripped off the bellows & cleaned the metal frames of my De Vere Monorail on Wednesday that was the glue residue left.

    Some of the other adhesives are quite similar just fancy packaging, colouring, maybe a different solvent balance to allow repositioning etc & higher prices, but the plain version is the best alround.

    Ian

  9. #9
    nick mulder's Avatar
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    hmmm,

    particularly of interest:

    "No need for clamping or special support while the adhesive sets"

    ... and a "500ml spray can" option - so it's quite liquid ? or this would be a special aerosol version ?
    Cleared the bowel problem, working on the consonants...

  10. #10
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    Special aerosol version, but I wouldn't like to spray it near bellows etc, it would be similar to the 3M permanent spray mount.

    As it's an impact adhesive you can put glue on both surfaces, let it almost dry then just press together and it's permanent.

    Ian

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