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  1. #1
    3 Olives's Avatar
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    Safest Method to Remove Glue

    I bought a camera from KEH and it was much better than expected. However, the previous owner put a return address lable in the recessed area of the film cartridge. I was able to remove the lable but there is some soft glue left behind. I don't think soap and water will work. Please tell me the safest way to remove it. Thanks.

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    2F/2F's Avatar
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    A little bit of Ronsonol, if you use a refillable lighter and happen to have some around. Otherwise, maybe some rubbing alcohol??

    Personally, I'd just let it get sticky with dust over time, and gradually smoosh it up into little gummy, dusty balls. It'd come off some day....
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

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  3. #3
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    What is the material? If it's metal, you might try a soft cloth dampened with some Goof Off, which I think is naphtha, but I'm not certain. It will even work on some plastics, but you would need to test that.
    WYSIWYG - At least that's my goal.

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    3 Olives's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobwysiwyg View Post
    What is the material? If it's metal, you might try a soft cloth dampened with some Goof Off, which I think is naphtha, but I'm not certain. It will even work on some plastics, but you would need to test that.
    Thanks for the reply. It's metal.

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    There is also a product called "Goo-Gone" which works well, probably similar to Goof Off. Also Citra-solve.
    I've not had much luck using alcohol on label adhesive.

    If the metal is aluminum alloy, the citra-solve could discolor it, or worse. You would want to follow it up with a wipe down with a damp sponge or towel.
    Last edited by bdial; 08-10-2010 at 07:47 PM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: PS

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    Be careful with Goo-Gone if it is a painted surface! Don't ask me how I know this, but.... you can discolor the original paint or in some cases, paint/coating can come right off!

    I typically use plastic eraser (drafting kind) and finger to just rub them off. Takes time but usually works.
    Develop, stop, fix.... wait.... where's my film?

  7. #7

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    I've had good luck with goof off, but I'd try plain rubbing alcohol first, then lighter fluid, then goof off.
    "Far more critical than what we know or do not know is what we do not want to know." - Eric Hoffer

  8. #8
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    My experience has been that there's no magic bullet that will remove all glue.

    Goo-Gone comes close because it's a soup of various VOC compounds (Xylene, Toluene, acetone, and some other things). I think the other brands are similar. But not everything responds.

    Ronsonol - ordinary lighter fluid - is a petroleum distillate that evaporates completely without residue, and works better with some things, especially petroleum based products. If you buy a can of VM+P Naptha (Varnish Makers and Painters) at Home Depot it's exactly the same thing as lighter fluid, and a lot cheaper by volume. (Woo-hoo, clean your old shutters!)

    And plain old alcohol is excellent for other things. Again, I keep a can of denatured alcohol from Home Depot around the house for cleaning. It's 99% pure, and the denaturing agent also evaporates completely without residue. (Although I couldn't pry it out of the manufacturer, I think the denaturing agent is Naptha. But it is a petroleum distillate of some kind.)

    Usually one of these things will dissolve the adhesive.
    Michael Batchelor
    Industrial Informatics, Inc.
    www.industrialinformatics.com

    The camera catches light. The photographer catches life.

  9. #9
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    Nail polish remover may work, too. It's got acetone, which is a decent solvent. I usually try it, then rubbing alcohol, then stronger stuff that I can't get now that I don't work in a lab.

  10. #10
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    I keep 99% rubbing alcohol around too but it doesn't always do the trick for me - there is are paint thinners out there (sold at art stores for oil painting) which are made from orange oil. These solvents work incredibly well for dissolving gums and resins (designed to be mixed with solid chunks of damar resin to produce varnishes) and are extremely mild and will not damage plastics, metals, or anything else - I always keep a bottle around for removing general gunk off of old equipment. They are also volatile and evaporate completely without residue. Just ensure that it's 100% orange oil and you'll be fine. Perhaps an odd suggestion but it's literally the best solution I've found - plus it doesn't stink up your workspace...it just smells like an orange peel.
    -dereck|james|gignac
    dereckjamesgignac.com

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