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  1. #11

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    You can make a lot of the tools you need. I use straight edges cut to length as spanners, sometimes I have to cut or grind the middle of the span to clear the glass lens but they are much better than spanners because they are more stable n sit low in the notches and allows me to make better handles for em. I've also used E-clip pliers as spanners. They comne in differnt sizes n with removable points I can customise.

    No Hub test plugs make great friction bungs and are more redily available at Home Depots n hardware stores and are dirt cheap.

    Make your own strap wrench. Noting more than a leather or heavy rubber band attached to a lever.

    Get a good set of screwdrivers. Whia is good brand to look for, MicroTools carries lots of camera tools you can shop like a kid in the candy store.

    Best way to get started is by doing some homework on the internet looking for repair manuals, sites with experianced repairmen and asking questions as you are doing here. Get some basic tools n cleaning agents, make a clean well lit place to work n rule number one... organize yourself. Also buying or finding junk lenses n taking em appart to experiment on. Once you get some confidence n see how most lenses and camera are built, you'll be a pro in no time at all.

    It's fun and will add another phase to your photography hobby that not many know about or care to try.
    Anyone can make a Digital print, but only a photographer can make a photograph.

  2. #12
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    For a COMPONON type 6-element lens I proceed as follows:

    Unscrew front and rear cells from the barrel.
    Each cell has a retainer ring that needs to be removed. I have found heating up the cell helps a lot.
    Afer removing the retainer rings the elements come out by tapping the cell. There should be a cemented doublet and a single lens with an air space. So basically two pieces of glass come out of each cell, with a total of 8 surfaces to clean.
    Fungus that damages the coating leaves a permanent dullness that won't come off, so I don't try. A gentle cleaning is all that is needed. It "is what it is" after just a gentle cleaning. More agressive cleaning only leads to scratches to add to the permanent damage (if any). The surfaces of brand-new lenses form B&H with life-time warranty is not perfectly clear when held up to light, so I don't expect a fungus lens to get perfectly clear. I got an 80mm from the swap meet that was basically all white on the inner surfaces. It cleaned up OK but still had about 15% residual 'fog.' The side-by-side test with a brand new 80mm Componon-S was nearly indestinguishable when both were stopped down to f16.

    With respect to the barrel on the Componon-S large lenses, there is a large circlip (c-clip) that holds the aperture ring in place. Removing this allows access to the click-stop mechanism, that frequently is weak or no longer working. I clean all the goo from the detents and sometimes strengthen the metal piece that rides in the detents.

    The aperture can be flushed with naptha, but be prepared to experience solublized oil weep onto the blades and make it worse than when you started, so proceed with caution if you think you need to do that.

  3. #13
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    Here is a thread where I show how to dissassemble a silver Componon and clean it up.
    http://www.largeformatphotography.in...ad.php?t=59159

  4. #14
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    I have some pictures to post on a major procedure I recently completed. I had two Componon-S 240mm lenses. One had scratched glass and the rest was very clean and good looking. The other had non -scratched, excellent glass with a rusty beat-up barrel. I totally dissassembled each one and build a single excellent lens from the parts. I put the remaining parts togeter and sold them. The 'bad' lens actually worked fine...someone got a bargain.

  5. #15
    Jeff Bannow's Avatar
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    Perfect Dale. That will help a lot.
    - Jeff (& sometimes Eva, too) - http://www.jeffbannow.com

  6. #16
    Nicholas Lindan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by benjiboy View Post
    Thorium
    Oh, hell, look at gas mantles...

    Everything is radioactive. It's what keeps the Earth alive.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geothermal_gradient
    DARKROOM AUTOMATION
    f-Stop Timers - Enlarging Meters
    http://www.darkroomautomation.com/da-main.htm

  7. #17
    Nicholas Lindan's Avatar
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    On a serious note:

    I always work on a bath towel (one that has been washed 100 times so all the lint is out of it). It keeps anything dropped from rolling away and keeps scratches to a minimum.

    Steve Grimes spanners are rather nice http://204.12.25.18:7883/products/spanner-wrench
    DARKROOM AUTOMATION
    f-Stop Timers - Enlarging Meters
    http://www.darkroomautomation.com/da-main.htm

  8. #18

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    Hi, Jeff.

    I'd check out your local library. I found a pretty good camera repair book at mine. (Wish I could remember the name.) It even covers tool fabrication.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

    - Rob Tyner (1944 - 1991)

  9. #19
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    240MM Componon-S: making one good lens from two.


  10. #20

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    I can only speak from my brief experience in fixing EL-Nikkors, Rodenstock something and some cheap 3 element type.

    First and foremost.... if it takes more than light "umph" to unscrew, stop! It's not supposed to take "grrrr" kind of force. When you take an element out, be sure to note, which way it is supposed to go back in and what order. I usually take quick photograph to remind myself. I mark lens element with a painter's masking tape to indicate which way is up.

    EL-Nikkors unscrew from front and back. All I do is to take a largish rubber balloon, put it on my palm, press hard against it, then twist. I also have a set of small screw drivers. I really haven't needed them. To clean, I use the ordinary lens cleaner and some microfiber cloth. Once clean, I use clean cotton gloves to handle them. A can of compressed air comes in handy as well. As to a work table, I use a very large micro-fiber cloth. Nothing rolls off and nothing gets scratched.

    I was actually surprised fairly bad dust and fungus came off cleanly. Then again, I had a Rodenstock that multi-coating was damaged so badly, as I tried to clean, chunks came off. I then used tooth paste to take it all off, re-assembled it, and I gave it away for shipping. (noting what I have done)
    Develop, stop, fix.... wait.... where's my film?

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