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  1. #21
    Andrew K's Avatar
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    you can do it - I've seen a Canon AE1 Program converted to half frame. The easy part was to mask off the film aperture, The hard part was to change 2 gears on the bottom so the shutter cocked fully but the film only would through the correct distance. The gears were hand made. I was told it was made in Hong Kong in the late 80's or early 90's. I was asked to convert it to full frame. I gave them another camera.

    It's now in the collection of a friend of mine who is a Canon collector...
    A camera is only a black box with a hole in it....

    my blog...some film, some digital http://andrewk1965.wordpress.com/

  2. #22

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    I grabbed a Smena-7 about 6 years back and loved how incredibly simple and mechanically mod-able it has been for me. The camera just has a basic wheel to advance the film and since it's been dropped in the past, there's not even really a stopper on it to tell you when you are done advancing. If you played around with that, ran a test roll through to see how many spins on the wheel would equal a square crop, and then go through the mod on the film plane to get the square, it should work!

  3. #23

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    make a vignetter ... this sort of thing has been done since the beginning ...

  4. #24
    Tjibs's Avatar
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    Why not get a 35mm square camera like the Fujica Rapid S2?

  5. #25

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    Of get a Konica Autoreflex T that is both half frame and full frame depending on the switch position. These are anvils, a real workhorse and the glass is quite good. Switching between the formats will make you lose a frame to prevent overlap but will save film.

    I was going to suggest getting something like an Exa or Exacta or a Pentax LX with the waist level finder and just etch the finder with square format, similar to some medium format camera screens when the camera can use difering formats. It would not save film but would allow you to compose in square format though the negative would be rectangular. The on printing you can print square or rectangular.

  6. #26
    BetterSense's Avatar
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    I have a Pentax ME Super that I modified into a moving-slot panoramic camera (like a Cirkut). I just used black construction paper and clear tape to make the mask for the slit. You could do the same thing and just make the slit 24mm wide. It would have large spaces between frames however. I'm not sure I see the point considering you can just crop...
    f/22 and be there.

  7. #27
    Sirius Glass's Avatar
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    Buy a good pair of scissors and cut the negative. A low cost, low tech solution.
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  8. #28
    Rick A's Avatar
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    Find an intact Yashica 635 with the 35mm adapter parts.
    Rick A
    Argentum aevum

  9. #29

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    I find myself wondering what would happen if you snipped off 1/3 of the teeth on the wheels that advance the film. For 2/3 of its stroke, the advance lever would be pulling the film along as expected; for the remaining 1/3 it should be turning the rest of its mechanism, but not advancing the film (the sprocket holes should just sit there while the toothless portion of the sprocket goes by). Obviously this only works if the sprocket goes through a full rotation per frame, though, and it's not obvious if the teeth would pick up the sprocket holes cleanly when they came back around.

    Perhaps worth a try if someone has a 35mm junker to test on. I'm not convinced it will work well, but I don't immediately see why it shouldn't at least "sorta-kinda" work.

    -NT
    Nathan Tenny
    San Diego, CA, USA

    The lady of the house has to be a pretty swell sort of person to put up with the annoyance of a photographer.
    -The Little Technical Library, _Developing, Printing, And Enlarging_

  10. #30

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    I've thought about removing sprocket teeth, but I don't think that would work. Here is how I would go about it. Take a simple camera like and Argus A or C series. The film transport on these is very simple as winding on and cocking the shutter are two separate operations. The star wheel is set up so that it makes one full rotation every time a frame is advanced. On the top of the star wheel there is a little pin that engages the film catch on the top deck. That little pin prevents you from advancing more than one frame when you wind on. If you drill another hole in the star wheel and install another pin 180deg opposed to the first one, you have a half frame camera. Converting to square frame would involve installing two pins, both 120 deg opposed from the first. Then, when you wind on, the film will advance 1/3 of a 35mm frame. Advancing twice would give you a square frame.

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