|
|
|
-
If you look at the front of the camera, stop down button is the square black button at the lower right of the lens.
The bad part of this situation is there is no access to the back of the lens from the back of the camera. The screws in the mounting flange are covered by the lens mount. So. Anything a technician can do, you can do.
I would try inserting a very thin screwdriver(1-2mm) or hobby knife blade between the edge of the tab(it's plastic) and the lens, and gently pry upwards while rotating the lens. The meter coupling ring on the body and may flex enough fo it to ride over the coupling on the lens.
If a repairman does that and breaks it, the lens is removed and the ring replaced. if you break it, the technician is one step closer to finishing the job.
Last edited by John Koehrer; 07-17-2011 at 05:07 PM.
A motorcyclist is the only one who understands why a dog rides with it's head out the window.
"I had an idea once, it died of loneliness"--George
-
Maybe a surgically-minded technician can open the shutter in B mode and operate from behind, in a prostatic-style way 
-
Not good idea, it access to the critical parts for disassembly and repair are from the front.
Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!
Nothing beats a great piece of glass!
I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.
-
 Originally Posted by John Koehrer
If you look at the front of the camera, stop down button is the square black button at the lower right of the lens.
The bad part of this situation is there is no access to the back of the lens from the back of the camera. The screws in the mounting flange are covered by the lens mount. So. Anything a technician can do, you can do.
I would try inserting a very thin screwdriver(1-2mm) or hobby knife blade between the edge of the tab(it's plastic) and the lens, and gently pry upwards while rotating the lens. The meter coupling ring on the body and may flex enough fo it to ride over the coupling on the lens.
If a repairman does that and breaks it, the lens is removed and the ring replaced. if you break it, the technician is one step closer to finishing the job.
That did the trick! Didn't break anything either. Thanks everyone so much! 
-
Originally Posted by Sirius Glass
Not good idea, it access to the critical parts for disassembly and repair are from the front.
FWIW, All of the stop down linkage, aperture ring, and mount bits can only be accessed from the back of the lens.
The front will get you to some optics, and aperture blades & housing.
Glad you got the thing done with no damage.
A motorcyclist is the only one who understands why a dog rides with it's head out the window.
"I had an idea once, it died of loneliness"--George
-
Sponsored Ad. (Subscribers to APUG have the option to remove this ad.)
-
Originally Posted by John Koehrer
FWIW, All of the stop down linkage, aperture ring, and mount bits can only be accessed from the back of the lens.
The front will get you to some optics, and aperture blades & housing.
Glad you got the thing done with no damage.
That's what I thought. If the stop-down lever was the problem, maybe it could have been accessed from behind the shutter. I'm glad the problem was solved anyway.
-
Are you rotating the entire lens or just the aperture ring to remove the lens?
Rick A
Argentum aevum
BTW: the big kid in my avatar is my hero, my son, who proudly serves us in the Navy. "SALUTE"
"Political correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical minority, and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."
-
APUG comes through again.
I remembered reading about a person with a Minolta X-700 that had a stuck lense. I thought at the time, well, that is good information to know if I ever have that problem. Well, guess what. My x-700 had exactly the same problem and so I did a search on here for the posting of that problem. I was able to get the lense off and see that the stop down tab had some scratches on it. I have two advantages to fixing it that the other guy may not have had. I have another X-700 so I was able to study it before I went at the bad X-700. I also have a digital vernier calipers and measured the good camera and the bad camera from the flange down. On the good camera, I came up with .350in. On the bad camera I had .343 I think it was. That is only 007in. off which is about the thickness of three human hairs. So I got in there with a needle nose pliers and bent it to within .001in. of the good cameras reading. It seems to work great now. Thanks APUG. That would have been a repair job that would have cost $40 if they agreed to work on an old camera like the X-700. I will be more careful in the future about putting lenses on.
|
|
Adv Reply
