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  1. #11

    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Huntington, NY
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    305
    Remove lens, open back, hold up to light and look through at the shutter plane as you fire it. Start at 1/2000 and work down. If you're getting completely blank frames, then there will be times you fire it and you will see no light. If curtain speeds are off, it will be worst at 1/2000 as that's when the slit is the smallest and curtain speed errors will be more obvious. John

  2. #12

    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    655
    Quote Originally Posted by CGW View Post
    I've gotten very un-nostalgic about film bodies
    Don't worry, I'm picking up your slack.

    s-a

  3. #13

    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    389
    motorized? i've seen a similar curtain sync problem once with a motor drive, 1/500 and faster. a minor adjustment. the camera had not had a drive on it for 30 years, so hard to say whether it was an age problem or a factory bug

  4. #14

    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Outside Boston, MA
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    176
    +1 for Sover Wong. He only works on the F2. Knows it inside and out, knows what to look for and how to make sure it stays fixed.
    (he did mine, better than new)

  5. #15

    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Shooter
    Medium Format
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    256
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    29
    After looking at KEH, I think my best bet is to pick up another body. They have some listed as little as $49 for "bargain" grade minus finder which doesn't matter to me since I have a DE-1 finder. With the 6 month warranty they now offer (with the option to purchase a warranty for up to three years) they will repair or replace it if it fails. Given the fact that both my F2's didn't last a year before needing repairs (even after having my first one overhauled before I started using it thinking I would have a camera that would be reliable in the years to come) this may be my most cost effective option. I see KEH also has some F3s that I may consider. Although I know I cannot use my finder or focusing screens with an F3, these cameras are ten years or so newer so maybe I'll have better luck. A newer F3 with a reasonably priced three year warranty really sounds enticing right now. I just want a camera that I can depend on to work and when it doesn't a no hassle repair or replacement. This is what KEH seems to be offering.

    PS - I did go up and down the shutter speeds with the back open and a lens off. It appears to be working fine, but it's an intermittent problem so it's anyone's guess when it will stop working again. The other roll I shot at the 9-11 memorial came out fine so it was just that one roll that the camera didn't expose the first 18 frames. There was one other roll a few months back as well so I have no doubt that this issue will occur again if I keep using the camera. Thanks again for your replies and advice.

  6. #16
    Jerevan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Sweden
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    1,858
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    9
    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Simpson View Post
    +1 for Sover Wong. He only works on the F2. Knows it inside and out, knows what to look for and how to make sure it stays fixed.
    (he did mine, better than new)
    Another +1 for Sover, he did my '77 F2 (and the Photomic meter) five years ago and it is still ticking along, hot summer or cold winter. I used slide film in -15 degrees C and wind chill last winter, it came out fine and camera worked better than me in that godawful cold. One of the few cameras I get happy just thinking about.
    “Do your work, then step back. The only path to serenity.” - Lao Tzu

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